Checking my distributor for spark

Val

Can any one tell me how I can do this in my 39? I just want to make sure it is getting a good spark prior to going with the electronic ignition 

Thanks

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Pull the center wire out of the distributor cap (the one coming from the coil), have your first wife hold it about 1/4 inch from a grounded part, like the engine block or manifolds while you crank the engine, key "ON". WAIT!!!  Maybe, instead, you should temporarily affix it in a position so that it's about a 1/4 inch away, like squish the boot between two grounded parts, then have her crank it while you watch for spark.. A healthy spark will have no trouble jumping that gap. Make sure it's in Neutral so you don't accidently run over your toes....not that I've ever done that.
F

Val

Thanks F

Wondering can it be done with a spark check tool. I have one but of course it doesn't list Hudson.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

It shouldn't matter if it's Hudson or not.
You can also pull the center wire, attach it near a ground (within a 1/4 inch or so, but not touching), remove the cap and rotate the engine to a point where the points are closed, turn the key "ON", then open and close the points by hand or with some tool, preferably something non-metallic. This mimics the action of the cam, making and breaking the contact and throwing a spark at the wire/ground gap. You may get "bit" if you do it by hand, but not a bad bite......more of a nibble. If it's in the right position, you can turn the distributor cam back and forth enough to cause the make/break through movement of the centrifugal advance mechanism.
F

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I wasn't referring to the hit from a coil.......it is possible to get nailed on a lesser level at the points, around a few hundred volts as compared to many thousands from the coil.
Funny you should mention the Bridgeport bite......I gave up part of my left thumb back in '73 to a two-flute, 7/8ths end mill. I can visualize it like it happened yesterday. End mills don't just cut you, they remove material as if they were designed to do that....and instantly!
I know......if you don't have pictures, it didn't happen but you probably don't want to see these.
F

PaulButler

Ken,

Sent you a PM

Paul

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Ken,
That thumb appears in many photos due to the fact that I hold stuff in the left hand and hold the camera in the right. I don't even think of it....it's just how it is, but it looks like I'm going for some sympathy.....not. You can often tell what I'm working on by what's staining the areas I can't get cleaned well.


Gary is aware of the 175 and, early on, I suggested it as a possible interim or permanent solution to his desire to get the Traveler on the road but he decided to stick with me....not realizing that I'm so slow you have to drive a stake to see if I'm moving.
Gary's 212 is basically completed but is temporarily back-burnered while I do battle with a parts supplier. It will get resolved soon and will be back on track. I don't share photos of the project 'cause I don't believe it's my place to do so. Gary gets to see 'em, though.

I just set up my ultra-low-rpm drive on the lathe to weld up the throwout bearing snout on the clutch cover. It's a 90 V, variable speed, right-angle, 60:1 drive set-up that drives through the lathe's drive system so it will turn so slowly you can't even see it move (A bit like me)......but the danged motor won't run!!! It's always something!! I'll have the house electrician take a look.

I've always surmised that the 175 and 212 blocks were the same but have not seen a 175 up close except one in a '40. In that case, the blocks are not the same, having different lengths of intake manifolds. It appears that the short, 175 intake for the W-1 is similar or the same as the Terraplane engines from earlier years. Hopefully someone will clarify that.
Onward.
F