Door Check Rivets

hudsn47

Any ideas what to use for the door check rivets on a stepdown? This is the bar that goes from the door to the piller and is revited to a brace against the door pillar. Looks like a 3/16 x 3/8 rivet. I see one on McMaster Carr website that would probably work but really dont need 100 of them. Any other alternatives besides nuts and bolts or pop rivets. I tried Fastenal and the big box stores without success. Thanks

Park_W

Rivet ???  My '51 has a flat-head clevis pin with a wire clip at the bottom to hold the pin in place.

RL Chilton

Park-

I believe he means the door check that the arm slides in and out of-- the part attached to the door jamb (or door) itself.  

Park_W

Thanks Russ, I thought that might be the case, but wasn't sure, with the term "door pillar" being used.

Couldn't one use "pan-head" machine screws and self-locking nuts on the inside?

Park_W

Right, Ken . . . that's what's at the body pillar end.

hudsn47

Here's a picture to claify what I'm talking about. This is on the Pacemaker and I believe this to be how it was  from the factory. It's not a clevis pin but looks like a hollow rivet. I'll find something that will work. May have to go the McMaster Carr route or may just use panhead screws. Havent found anything where this was discussed on the forum before. Doug

RL Chilton

Well, I stand corrected.  You DID mean the pin that holds the door check.  And, it's odd, but everyone of those that I have looked at is a clevis pin with cotter pin that keeps it from flopping out.  Maybe PM's were different?

Yes, I think the McM-Carr route is a good one for originality.  If not, find a clevis the right size and make it more serviceable.  

Do all PM's look like this one?  

SuperDave

My 49 Super 6 Two door had the rivets. Has clevis now. Makes it a lot easier if you have to remove the doors.

hudsn47

One other thing I'm working on a 52 Hornet that the previous owner used a pop rivet that is too small diameter. Clevis sounds good, will look into that, just needs to be a good fit or the door will "pop" opening and closing. 1/4" dia clevis 1/4" long should be nice and snug. Maybe there is a difference between the SWB and LWB in this department. Will have to pay attention at the next meet.

hudsn47

There's an adjustable clevis pin on McMaster-Carr that should work 1/4" diameter with 1/4" steps, 1" length, can grind it down to usable length which should be 1/4" and use a cotter pin on the underside. Package of 10 for around $4 plus shipping whichif I know McMaster-Carr will be about $10 lol. I ordered some door weatherstripping and they went way overboard on the box size so who knows how this will arrive. Thanks.

Doug 

hudsn47

Heres a picture of the pin for reference. Forgot to attach it above.

 

 

RL Chilton

1/4" long sounds too short.  I think you'll need 1/2", 1/4" to fit through the three layers of metal and 1/4" sticking below it to insert cotter pin.  Yes, that adjustable one looks good.