Ignition timimg help!!!!

Val

Will someone please help me with setting the distributor ignition timing on my 39 series 92??  I am not sure where to begin.  

Geoff

Take out plug No. 1, hold your finger over the hole and turn engine slowly until you feel air being pushed out.   Bring mark on flywheel T.C. 1-6 to pointer.   Distributor rotor should be pointing to No. 1 terminal, and points  just opening.  Rotor turns clockwise.   Check with  timing light after initial setting.

KTRON

Do you have a tiny-tach, hall effect or mechanical tachometer on your engine? Once the points gap is set, and the engine is running, set the carburetor throttle lever at one position (midrange - about 1800rpm) while looking at the tachometer slowly turn the distributor each way until maximum rpm is achieved. Lock the distributor down. Then with a vacuum gauge, set your carburetor for maximum vacuum. Governor adjustments are usually engine specific, but as far as ignition goes, ive used the above principle to tune gasoline engines from 80cc to 14 liters. Good luck!

Chris

Val

Thanks guys I don't have points in my car anymore. I switched to electronic. And I wonder if I may be 180 out. 

GEOFF; I see marks on my flywheel but not sure what you mean by pointer. And where do I use the timing light as I see no marks on the balancer.

KTRON : I don't have a tach and the car wont start at the moment. I do have a vacuum gage though. I can get a tach if needed But I must get the car going again first.

 

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Is this a problem that began with the electronic conversion or did it exist prior?

F

Val

F :  This issue began before I replaced the points with the pertronix unit. I am getting spark (fire) and getting fuel. SO I have come to the conclusion that the timing may be out as I removed the distributor to install the pertronix kit. I did mark it and install it the same way but still no start.

Glowplug

Time the distributor. The engine mechanical firing order must be matched to the distributor electrical firing order. Use mechanical procedures manual or this in the ball park method. Pull plug one. Place thumb over hole and rotate engine until compression felt at hole. Remove distributor cap look at the rotor metal end that is now pointing to the firing point on the cap. This is where #1 ignition wire should be. Insert the wiees for 1,5,3,6,2,4 in the cap in a clockwise direction. Reinstall the cap start car and reset the timing and carb settings to optimum.

Val

OldFarmer1947 : Thank you I will attempt this do you have any info on what Geoff C was saying about a pointer?  

Geoff

The pointer is the indented part in the opening above the starter.   I was not aware you had electronic ignition, so I don't know how you  time that statically.

Val

Thanks Geoff I will look at that. I think the advice oldfarmer gave me may work out good. I will keep you and others posted.

Nerve_Center

See the attached Image. "A" pointing to the pointer.

Val

Nerve Center : Thank you so much for the picture.

Nerve_Center

No worries Val. Someone said a picture was worth a thousand words. Good luck.

RL Chilton

Good picture!  That's as clear as a bell. 

Lee ODell

That is the best picture I have seen showing exactly what part of the opening is the timing pointer.

Thank you
Lee O'Dell

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I added a pointer that's within 1/8 inch of the flywheel to try to minimize the parallax issue with the original. It's hard enough to get down there to see what you're doing without wondering if you really have the marks aligned.

F

RichardD

My timing marker/tape>>>

1>> marker in sheet metal

2>> installation on timing tape {Jegs-Chrysler}

3>> timing tape on

Kdancy

Richard, you inspired me to add one to the 308 dampener on the engine I have on the stand. Much easier to see and use.

RichardD

Kerry, just checked my receipt: Jeggs # 555-40720  7.25"  $4.69  Check out your damper tho.  after I installed I did used Goop on the edges.

RichardD

Pointer pattern

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Here we go again.....the outer part of the Hudson vibration dampener/damper/harmonic balancer is independent of the hub and is mounted in a "sandwich" comprised of the hub, two rubber discs and the pulley/mass. Although I doubt that they move independently of one another in ordinary use, aside from the slight movement that takes up the torsional vibrations, I still don't believe it's a good idea to use it as a reliable timing mark location.

Just Frank's opinion.

Frank 

RichardD

Zero on one end matches Zero on the other end~~~~ and Zero is all I need

Because I use an excellent timing light that has a dial on it so all the degree marks on the car mean nothing to me.

Almost that easy~~

But it surely impresses folks who look down and see it--a 'racer' item !!!

I generally advance as far as I can unless I detonate then I back off-- Smoky Yunick style~~

Kdancy

The dampener rubber on this one was replaced-rebuilt by Dr. Damper, so it's new and shouldn't pose a problem. I double check with vacuum gauge as well and final tune using that.

Val

Ok guys I have an issue here. My car wont start so I think II rest the timing as I believe it was thrown off when I removed the distributor to install the pertronix kit. SO her is what I did. I chalked the flywheel where it says UTDC 6-8 and has two marks as such   |  |    I lined the pointer between the two hash marks. The forward piston #1  is up (I can feel it when insert a straw) I then took notice of where the rotor pointed so I removed the distributor and clocked it so that the rotor pointed toward the #1 piston. My question is did I do this correctly or am I possibly 180 out? 

Jon B

The piston is "up" twice, during the 4 cycles of an engine.

All you need to do is hold your finger over the spark plug hole while rotating the engine, to know the "right" time it's up.  Air will come out of the cylinder (indicating the compression stroke, just before the spark plug fires).  When the air stops coming out, you're at or near UDC and the flywheel marks should then be visible.

Val

Ok Jon than you  but lets say if the flywheel mark isn't visible? Is that possible? I don't know that is the case just asking.  

Lee ODell

Val
If you crank engine until you start to feel compression on number one cylinder. I then use a wrench or large channel locks on balance nut to bring flywheel timing mark to top dead center pointer. Remove the cap see where rotor is pointing. That will be the new number one spark plug wire location. Then continue moving the rest of plug wires around in firing order. It should start. Then use timing lite to adjust final timing.

With number one on compression stroke and timing mark at UTDC it does not matter where the rotor points. That will be #1 and put all the other wire in cap in firing order you are all set.. Don't worry if the rotor does not point in the same direction as it was before removing distributor or as picture in Mechanical Procedure Manual. It will still run as it is suppose to.
Lee O'Dell

Val

Ok Lee Thank you I wasn't aware of that. But to be clear I turn engine until compression #1 the use wrench to turn balance nut bringing marks on flywheel into view and lining pointer up (between hash marks)? Where ever rotor points move #1 wire to that position? Then moving all other wires accordingly.   

Lee ODell

Val
Correct. That is the way I do it. It works. That will save you a lot of time and "FRUSTRATIOOON" trying to get the rotor to point the same as in the book. Speaking from trying.

I hope your pertronic system works ok. I could not get mine to fire. The place I had the distributor checked out told me Flamethrower was not working, go get the old coil. Went home got the old coil then he remove flamethrower coil and he tested pertronic with stock coil and it worked. Installed distributor and old coil in car and engine started right up. Go figure. Doesn't speak well of Flamethrower quality.
Lee O'Dell

Val

OK I got it to stop backfiring from the carb. It is to the point where she sounds like she wants to start. I will now begin to turn the distributor little by little. Also I will syphon the gas out and put in fresh gas. Once I get her fired up I will inform via this post. Charging the battery so I will get back at it tomorrow. I will get some carb cleaner and spray the crap out of it so it will be fairly clean with the new fuel