Wheel covers

54Hollywood

Hi everyone,

I seem to recall reading about some members using tape on the wheel rims to help hold on the full wheel covers for '54 Hudsons but naturally I can't find that article.  Can anyone fill me in on where the article was located or what the technique is?  Thanks.

Tim in WI.

Glowplug

http://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/65966/54-full-wheel-covers

Lee ODell

Tim
I have had good results with tape. For better clamping ability, I bend every tang on wheel cover outward slightly. Just don't go overboard or they will be out so far the wheel cover will not go on wheel.

This is not just a Hudson wheel cover problem. All older cars had this problem with full wheel covers. I did the above procedure on many cars to put wheel covers back on in my wheel alignment shop because after time the tangs loose their clamping tension. When a customer wants a $100 dollars for his expensive wheel cover that fell off after alignment you learn real quick to use any trick to keep those buggers to stay mounted. If any tangs show signs of cracking don't expect wheel cover to stay on the wheel.

I don't think I would try the silicone method mentioned provided in the preceding link. That stuff is to slick.

I learned something about the differences between wheel covers for Jet and full size Hudson. Don't use the wheel covers from full size Hudson on a Jet.

Short of using some kind of epoxy, there is no 100% guarantee they will never come off. I keep a couple of spares just in case.

Good luck Tim
Lee O'Dell

Lee ODell

Tim
I just reread your post and saw you have a 54 so your wheels should already have the raised metal on both sides of the valve stem holes.

I liked the idea of the stronger 15" wheels on 79 - 89 Chrysler mentioned in the previous link that fit Hudson's.

Does anyone know the wheel width of the Chrysler wheels?
Lee O'Dell

54Hollywood

Lee, thanks for your reply.  

Tell me more about using the tape.  What kind, duct or?  Do you cut it into strips and then kind of wrap the inside of the wheel?  I think the article I'm referring to had that detailed information so that's what I'm hoping to find.  Slightly bending the tangs makes sense too.

Our '54 only has two original wheels with the raised metal bumps by the valve stem holes.  Not sure what the others are from but probably older Chrysler wheels.  I am using brass valve stems to help hold the covers and to insure that if they do creep they won't slice the valve stem.  Any further advice is most appreciated.  

Tim

Lee ODell

Tim
Just another thought came to mind. Wheels need to be true. If bent slightly or flex they tend to flip the wheel covers of the wheel. Also, Sometimes when wheels are balanced they put thick wheel weights on the rim. They will not allow the wheel cover to mount all the way flush with the wheel where the thick wheel weight is. The wheel will only go on as far as the wheel weight allows. Thin wheel weights are better and usually allow the wheel cover to mount all the way. If a wheel weight prevents the cover from going on all the way you need to replace it with a weight that will. The lip of the wheel cover should set flush against the wheel. If it doesn't you need to find the reason why and make correction. A powder coated and newly painted wheels leaves a slick surface making it easier for wheel covers to slide off. If using full wheel covers the wheel color won't be seen anyway, save some money and not paint wheel except of the outer lip. Wheel weights will mess that up too every time they are changed.

Clean the wheels real good so tape will stick. I run a strip of tape all the way around wheel surface where the wheel cover tangs make contact. Don't use cheep tape whatever type you use. It will not stick. I've used a good grade masking tape. Masking tape has a ruff texture for the wheel cover to grab on. I have used different types of good tape that helped. You do not want the tangs to contact slippery surface. Use "good old common since". Your choice.
Lee O'Dell

PS - Maybe even a rusty surface would work better than tape. Just a thought.
Someone may even have better solutions. A solid welded wheel would be better than a riveted wheel, less likely to flex. A wider wheel than 4 1/2" wheel would be stronger with less flexing.

RL Chilton

Tim-

Here is the other thread that I started on the subject:

http://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/164338/hubcaps-don-t-lose-em#latest

In addition, the metal valve stems help them from being cut and can be fashioned from metal fuel lines.  

Lee ODell

Ken
How do you get rear tires and wheels on and off rear with 7" wide wheels? What size tires are on your car? I had a devil of a time removing 4 1/2 wheel with 235X15 tires that were on iHornet when I bought the car.
Lee O'Dell

onerare39

I have not lost one since I started using tape.  Use Gorilla Tape not Duct/Duck tape.

John

Lee ODell

Ken
Thanks for the information.
I have a couple more questions. Is the 7" measured form outside edge of inner and outer rim lip or across the inside rim where the tire beads contact wheel?
2. Is the extra 2 1/2" width added inboard side of wheel.

I have been wanting to add wider wheels but I thought 5" wheels were about the limit from my experience changing tires on Hornet. I'm glad to know larger 6" or 7' wheels will work. I believe the wider wheels would help reduce tire side wall flexing. Much like spreading my feet apart for better stability I feel spreading tire side walls will have similar effect to increase stability.

Thanks again Ken
Lee

RL Chilton

Lee-

It does, a little bit.  It also puts a slightly wider footprint on the asphalt.  

54Hollywood

Hi again everyone,

Thanks very much for the information.  Very helpful.  Time to go buy some gorilla tape.

Tim in WI