Weak, muffled idle at WOT?
Upon trying to start it, I could not get it to run except if pedal was floored and then it produces a very weak sounding idle that honestly sounds like the exhaust is plugged...it is not.
When I installed the Pertronix in the distributor, I left the vacuum line as it was. There was no mention of it in their directions, should it have been eliminated?
Carb is in great shape, fuel pump as well, in fact car ran perfectly before conversion except that harness was just waiting to create a fire.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Comments
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abg,
The vacuum line for the vac adv. should be left as is (unless the diaphragm is ruptured, of course). None of that is causing your issue.
Assuming you static timed it after installing the Pertronix unit, it should run fine except for final adjustment of timing. It appears from your description of how it runs that the timing is very, very retarded.
I know of one case where it was impossible to get it timed with the distributor in the same position (as it was before the conversion) because the magnet ring was the incorrect unit and put the "trigger point" out of the range of ordinary adjustment. Pertronix replaced it without argument and all was well.
You should be able to place #1 at TDC(firing), then rotate the distributor body, first clockwise (to go past the trigger point), then counter clockwise until it throws a spark. Obviously all must be hooked up properly and ign "ON" and the coil high tension lead held about a quarter inch from a ground. Have your wife do that part. When she screams, you'll know where the trigger point is.
Good move on the rewiring project. I just did the same thing on our Jet prior to the trip to Colorado.
F
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I never had the dist. out or changed the timing. The pertronix unit is one that only has a module, no ring.
I'll try your suggestion.
Thanks0 -
Not sure I understand how I could lose TDC without pulling the distributor, but I will try to advance it by moving it small degrees counterclockwise at first just to see how it effects the idle. I'll index the dist before so I can go back and then work on theTDC if I have to.
All this tomorrow since I wasn't home today.
Thanks0 -
Airbrush,
I'm curious as to what part number that Pertronix kit is. It must be something I've never heard of......that could apply to many things. Are you saying that you didn't put anything inside the distributor?
You didn't "lose TDC".....it's still where it always was. The relationship betwixt it and when the spark occurs is what's in question.
F
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I did put a small module about the size of a circuit breaker and it mounted on the posts(knobs) of the condenser. But there was no magnetic ring like other units I've installed before now.
Thanks Frank, I'll check the Pertronix number tomorrow0 -
abg,
Is that to say that it still has breaker points?
F
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No points.0
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No points.
Photos please
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The ignitor electronic ignition unit that I installed was 2563LS , as I said, it only has a module with the two wires, no magnetic ring on the shaft. I'd like to contact Pertronix tech dept but they're in California and not awake yet.
Does this number sound correct to anyone who has installed electronic ignition on a 262 six cylinder?
Thanks0 -
When I enter that # in the product search on the Pertronix website, I get this: http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/ptx/2015/ptx2015_ignition_conv.pdf
It isn't specific to that # but describes the general unit I'm familiar with......something doesn't make sense.
Your photo is of the inside of the distributor showing the pickup mounted on the "breaker plate". It must be sensing something, so I assume there's a magnet ring on the cam to provide the mag field to sense. Pull the rotor off to see what's under it. It should be the ring to which I refer. If not, I'm out.
For what it's worth, you can't simply install the Pertronix parts without re-setting the timing to match it. It should be close, but won't necessarily be correct.
F
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I agree with Frank. My friends 46 Hudson timing changed approx. 5 degrees after installing Pertronic. Also, one lobe on the ring was incorrect so one of the cylinders timing was off. Got another ring from pertronic and it works fine now.
My problem was not the Pertronic itself but the Flame Thrower Coil. It did not work. Wire in the old coil and it works fine now.
Lee O'Dell0 -
Waiting for pertronix tech, but one thing to point out....this is called a lobe-sensing unit, so it may not require the magnetic ring. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks for your interest and suggestions.0
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Hmmmm. Ya learn somethin' every day.......I can shut my brain back off now. Is this a new innovation or something that I just haven't bumped into before now? I'll assume the "LS" is an indication of the "Lobe Sensing" design feature.
In any case, the timing must be reset to the new device, but I'm sure you did that as part of the installation.
Lobe sensing, huh? I stand corrected.
Frank
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I have a different part # 1362P6 for my 55 308 engine and it came with a magnet sleeve that slide over distributor shaft and onto the point cam. Had to rotate sleeve until a slight locating position was felt. That positioned the sleeve so it lined up on the point cam and then just pressed down firmly until it was firmly seated.
I would be interested to see what the Pertronic Tech guy says.
Lee O'Dell0 -
Tech said the timing probably was off but not necessary to do more than turn dist, no need to pull and point to #1.He said first I ought to run wire from battery pos post to coil pos so I am sure its getting enough voltage.I hooked up wire, unbolted dist holddown and turned it counter clockwise at small intervals...result: unable to run continuously and still muffled sound to it.Turned dist clockwise small intervals... result: unable to run at all.May have to find TDC despite tech's advise....tomorrow.He also said it should not have a magnetic ring because it is "lobe-sensing" and it is the proper unit for my '49 Hudson 262.Anyone ever encounter this type of problem?0
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Airbrush
I just reread your first message. I missed that yours is 12 Volt probably negative ground. My PN # was for 6 volt positive ground. Interesting one is cam lobe sensitive and the other uses magnetic ring. It may be possible the igniter is defective if timing is correct.
Lee O'Dell0 -
Airbrush,"Muffled sound to it", sounds like a weak coil. I would try another coil, as Lee found out, the new one could be bad.John0
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John,
I think you might have something there. I hate to "throw parts" at a problem but I'm baffled at what the problem is. I'll try another coil.
Everything on this project is new and perfectly installed, if it ran as good as it looks, I'd have a world-beater!
Thank you everyone for trying to help.0 -
Changed coil, still muffled but will idle, stalls upon giving gas.0
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If it was running fine before the change - then it has to be the Pertronix unit. I've read that there is 2 faults with that system - faulty coil and using your old spark plug leads - if you swap over these 2 items and still no go - its probably the Pertronix has an "out of box" failure - not un-common with cheaper throw away electronic stuff these days - Just because its a Pertronix doesn't make it somehow magic and any better than a Chinese bargain $7.99 electric toaster - which probably was put together with more skill :-) love to know what the final solution turns out though!!! cheers ken and best of luck0
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Changed back to points, problem solved. Runs like a charm!0
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Ken, I've been running a MoPar slant 6 distributor and the Chrysler electrinic ignition system for over 4 years and at least 10,000 miles now in my 54 308 and absolutly no trouble. of course I have converted to 12 volts .Bruce
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