12 Volt Conversion - Wire Harness
- Alternator (And Bracket)
- Wire Harness - I'm thinking a Painless P/N 10307 (18 Circuit extra length) Fuse block mounts in the firewall (wondering if anyone has experience doing this) Also what are the best connectors to use
- Headlights/Lightbulbs
- Gauges (Will they work on 12 Volt or not)
- Ignition - Points/Condenser and Coil
- A good resolution wiring Diagram to go off of as I begin to layout the new harness
- Anything else that a newbie would forget to plan for in this kind of project
Comments
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Something that probably wouldn't get mentioned>>
Use a Thomas and Betts crimper, not one of the cheap combination crimper,stripper,& cutter.
Also use shrink tubing(w/ heat gun) on EVERY connector and wire end. You don't want any blue, yellow, or red connectors showing plus it makes connection more secure.
When you use black electricians tape: Buy the 'double thick' more expensive tape.
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Go to my web site
http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/
Scroll down to 12 volt conversion and click to go to the page
Updated incorrect web addresss0 -
Jake, drop me an email for my take on the subject. You'll find it useful. hetpwald@comporium.net (drop the het for actual address).
(Farmer, I couldn't find the 12v conversion topic on your site.)
Park
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Thanks Park - address fixed0
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Jake2. If you are going to use a generic harness you may as well just buy some rolls of wire. A fuse block with 4 or 6 fuses is a good idea3. Install a headlight relay4. They will but I wouldn't. Install a 12V - 6V electronic voltage dropper with enough capacity to run your gauges, fan motor OD solenoid etc6. The Hudson manual contains a good wiring diagram7. RichardD speaks words of wisdom, plus I go overboard and solder after crimping where I can.0
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Hey All. Just remembered I am planning to have the radio converted to 12 volt am/fm. Any favorite companies out there that do a good job at this? I have contacted S&M Electro-Tech, Inc in Minnesota, they quoted me at around $4000
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Steve Engel did my 12v conversion, and yes it is costly. Find him in the WTN.
American Autowire offers a Nostalgia series which includes the old woven look in new wire. I liked it. I did not buy a good crimper, probably would not have been comfortable anyhow, so I soldiered the vast majority of the terminals. I used original terminals in most cases, spliced onto new wire. Therefor all orginal junction blocks are used, such as in trunk and near steering column. Park will get you on track with the right parts. As far as alternator bracket goes, I got mine from a discontinued line. Most fabricate their own, but hopefully someone out there has one. I do have a cast bracket that mounts to the passenger side of the block and could be used for alternator (originally intended for A/C), let me know if interested. But most mount alt to driver side. I'll help you more when you have specific problems.
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DavidC see your PM0
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David,I'm working up my nerve to get started on installing the Autowire Highway 15 wiring harness in my 49 coupe. I noticed that you said you used original terminals in most cases and spliced in the new wires. What did you do about the ignition and light switches, did you use the old starter switch with the push button or the modern switch that comes with the kit? Ditto for the light switch?Jason0
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Jake-Have you already bought the wiring kit you plan on using?0
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Always solder n shrink = won't let go nmoistureproof ALSO Install two relays for your hi wattage new headlamps. Let the step down sw pull them in off a new fuse block/ relay0
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