Beginning body work on the '50.
keithfullmeryahoocom
Expert Adviser
in HUDSON
Question on original paint. Was it lacquer? I assume it will all need to be removed. I'm going to play with the mechanical/chemical method for a while. Usually this leads to finding someone to sand/soda blast. What have you guys done with this...k
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Yes lacquer. Wire wheel on a heavy duty 4" grinder. You can buy a good knotted wheel from Napa,
high speed. Two should do the whole car.
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Nitro-Cellulose Lacquer, as a matter of fact. The industry standard at the time.Last one I did I blasted. Didn't have the patience for grinding it away.0
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I'm sure I'm going to hear some flack, but if the weather is not windy and at least 60° and you don't mind working quickly, I would use Citristrip. Can be bought at Homedepot, good price, works great, follow with lacquer thinner wash down. Done at least a half dozen restorations using this stuff. Strong but smells good, use with good gloves!0
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No flack here, that's cool. Will have to try some. How tough is it getting it back out of the inner reaches?0
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I've got nothing to lose. I'll give it a shot. How does it compare with the aircraft jell. I so dislike this messy but necessary part of the build, I'll try just about anything. No such thing as an easy way to get the old stuff off...k0
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IMHO, better than aircraft, better smelling and quicker. Keep in mind, the warmer the temp and less wind to dry it, the quicker and deeper it works. Cold, windy day.....don't bother.Gel, so it hangs onto vertical surfaces. If you can get lacquer thinner at it, you can clean it away. Never had any effect on any of my finished paintjobs.Never been disappointed.0
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Keith, check your area to see if anyone does soda blasting. It will be in and out in a few hours. Clean properly and apply epoxy primer.
As a side note, primer should be topcoated soon, primer in and of itself is not a rust preventative, it promotes adhesion of the topcoat and that is what seals the surface.0
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