New Problem

49Hudson

A friend was setting my clock and it quit working.  I checked the fuse and it was blown.  While replacing the fuse, it turned red hot and burned the crap out of my finger.  What in the world could have happened?  I realize there is a short within the wiring loop, but what is included in that loop?  Should I assume the short is in the clock itself?   If so, who repairs them?

Jim

Jon B

If there had been an internal (clock) short, it should have blown the fuse in short order.  Yet the fuse got red hot.  How is that possible?  First, is the fuse the correct one?  I think this is a very low amp fuse.  Can you look for numbers on the fuse that will identify it?  This is a very short fuse, and maybe someone (in the past) bought a new "short" fuse of a higher amperage, thinking that -- because it was short -- it must be the right one.

Of course the initial problem may be within the clock.  Take it apart.  You'll find a set of "points" like like on your distributor, and maybe these have somehow gotten closed permanently.  (They're only supposed to briefly close, when the clock runs down, to give a short "spurt" of electricity to the electromagnet that activates the winding mechanism.)

So: carefully examine around where the fuse goes, to see if anything is amiss.  There should be a small cardboard tube that fits snugly around the fuse as you drop it into the chamber.  That's an insulator.  Then, inside the clock, see if the "points are fried".

49Hudson

I installed a very short 3 amp fuse, which blew as I installed it and left a white blister on my finger.  I could feel it getting hot.  I was aware of the points in the clock, and now it occurs to me if they were stuck closed, it might just cause the quick heat up I felt.  I'll pull the clock and check the points.

I love this car, but stuff seems to happen at an amazing pace.  I have been towed home three times already.  I bought it in February, but didn't drive it much until recently.

Assuming this car is painted its original color red, exactly what color would that be?  It is a 1949 Commodore Convertible Brougham painted a beautiful bright red.  I need to touch up several spots on the paint job.

Jim.

Per

Jim,

     It may be that the insulation of the wire is damaged where the wire goes through the case of the clock, causing the wire to be grounded.  Since the clock was working when it was being set, this seems more likely than something going wrong with the points just at that moment. 

                  Per

49Hudson

Now that is thinking = I will check it out tomorrow.

Jim

Lance

Jim, If your electric clock need repairing let me know.

charles4d

Sounds like twohot wires running together with a fuse in between just my two cents

Per

Jim,

     What are the other problems you have had with your car?  I also have a '49.

                Per

49Hudson

You guys are great.  I will try every suggestion and let you know what the issue was.

Lance, if the clock needs repair, I will gladly contact you.

Per,
My first and biggest problem was failure to crank, or difficulty in cranking.  I now attribute that to a defective set of points, a loose fuel line, and a loose vacuum line. 

My second, and most aggravating problem was failure to shift into reverse or first.  After weeks of checking solenoids, linkage, etc., I discovered the shifter mechanism on the steering wheel has shifted down ever so slightly.  I loosened two bolts and pulled it back into position and everything worked fine.  The giveaway for the problem was failure of the turn signal to auto-cancel. 

Vapor locking prevented me from driving during the summer.  I couldn't go more than 30 miles before it stopped running.  I got to know the tow truck driver so well, we exchange Christmas cards now.  My 49 has a 39 8-cyl engine in it, according to the serial number on the head.  The fuel line comes down the length of the engine and loops up and back into the carburetor.  The line and a bowl filter at the entrance to the carb get so hot the fuel begins to boil in the bowl filter.  I wrapped the line and the bowl filter in aluminum foil as a stop gap measure, and it works to some degree.  I have driven 50 miles with no problem.  I intend to wrap the exhaust pipe and manifold in heat wrap tape and install a larger heat shield under the carb.

When in over drive, I hear a weird grumbling noise, for lack of a better description.  It is low pitched, and goes away eventually.  Also, when in overdrive, it stays in OD regardless of what I do unless I use the actuating cable to disengage.  Mashing the accelerator to the floor does not work.  I have been a self made victim of stopping on a slight incline while in OD, and exiting the vehicle only to have to chase it down to pull the emergency brake (twice).

None of these problems deter me from driving the car, which I enjoy a ton.  The brakes are perfect and will stop one on a dime with change.  The clutch may be getting to the replacement point - hard to tell as I am not familiar with a cork clutch. 

The windshield washer hoses are hanging down under the dash, and I have no idea how to re-hook them.

The previous owner took magnificent care of this car, and it is in wonderful condition.  The car is a joy to drive.  I do need to tighten the steering a bit, but I haven't figured out how to refill the steering box, or what lubricant to use.  The darn box is behind a steel brace, making access a bit dodgy.

I do not know how to fill the hydraulic fluid reservoir because I don't know where it is - yet.  I found the ignition coil under the dash on the passenger side, so I am no longer surprised by strange location of components.

That is about it.

I just love this car.

Jim

Lee ODell

Jim

My car would stop running in 50 miles freeway driving.  Turned out the valves were adjusted to tight.

Lee O'Dell 

RL Chilton

49's turn signals didn't self-cancel, did they?  I thought they started doing that in '51 or so.  

49Hudson

Mine self-cancel, and it is a 49.

Jim

Lance

Russell, They will not cancel if there are no cancelling pins. Not all steering wheels in the early stepdown years had holes drilled in the steering wheel hub for those pins.

SuperDave

My 49 8 conv. has self canceling turn signals. Stock steering wheel and OEM signal switch.

  I have had problems with 52 and newer.. Top steering column bearing slides up letting the shaft drop a bit and not aligning with the pins in the steering wheel. I suppose the same thing could happen on the older ones. If you can push the wheel up and feel some slack, check the upper bearing. Just remove the wheel and use something to tap the bearing back down into the column.

Always pull the OD knob out when parked. it will free wheel if you don't. just the way it works.

These cars are notorious for not wanting to go into reverse with the OD knob in. The shop manual just tells you to pull the knob out before backing up. I have tried just about everything and it is one of those "hit and  Miss" things.

I don't think the coil is supposed to be there, but it keeps it cool!

The hydraulic pump and reservoir are under the rear seat cushion.

SuperDave

Ken U-Tx said:

There is supposed to be a  coil spring between the upper steering column bearing's tapered shaft bushing and the steering wheel, sometimes with a spacer ring.This keeps the tapered shaft bushing seated in the bearing and eliminating the play you mention. Sounds like you are missing the spring, and/ or spacer.

You are right.. i'm probably missing a few screws too! LOL

Per

Jim,

     On my '49 the master cylinder, which contains the brake fluid reservoir, is under the floor on the driver's side, somewhat in front of the front seat.  I reach it by pulling up the floor mat and removing a circular metal plate which is held down by three small sheet metal screws.  After removing this, the large nut of the filler cap is visible.

                  Per

Park_W

Jim, with regard to the engine serial nr., it's not on the cylinder head, so that may have sent you up the wrong tree.  The engine nr. for a 49 Eight is on the block between the first and second exhaust manifold flange.  If the first three numbers are 491 it's a '49 engine.

49Hudson

OK, now I am confused.  The engine serial number is 144284 and the serial number on the little triangular shaped tag on the inside of the right door frame is 494111521 which I don't know how to decipher.  I assume the engine is not original to the car, but is the right year engine (Aug of 49), but the car SN is a mystery to me.

I thought the engine serial number and the car serial number were supposed to be the same.

Let me guess.  The car SN is 111521 which is a May of 49 car, and the 494 indicates 1949 manufacture and the 4 is some kind of model designator  Right?

So I have a May of 49 car with an Aug of 49 engine?.

Does anyone collect this data?

Jim

Lee ODell

Jim

49- May 1949

4- Commodore 8

111521- serial number

Information from General Information Handbook

for

Hudson Built Autombiles

by Alex Burr

You might want to get a copy.  A lot of information found there.  It is also in the club library.

Lee O'Dell

49Hudson

Thank you, Lee.

Jim