Help with 3spd Non-OD Tranny

I'm in the process of tearing down my 3spd tranny for my '50 coupe and i can't seem to figure out how to pull the second/high gear shift rail from the case.  Everything else came out without issue using the manual but this shift rail seems to be secured in a manner that is not obvious to me.  I removed the locking screws where I saw them but there seems to be something still pinned near the area above the reverse idler gear. I noticed a 'plug' on the exterior of the case in a position which looks to be relevant but there isn't a screw head or anything to grab onto so I don't want to mangle it only to find out that it wasn't a solution.

Comments

  • I did check to make sure it was removed and it seems that was not my issue. This evening I pulled the shaft by hand while twisting it and it disengaged with just a little tug. Afterward I found that I missed a ball detent and spring that was locking it in place. Luckily I was able to remove both and the spring wasn't damaged too bad so it should still be serviceable. I had checked that cavity prior to the first attempt but it seems the ball was lodged in there pretty well so I thought I was in the clear. I suppose it became dislodged when I pulled the shaft so I was then able to place a magnet down the cavity and the ball came right out. Thanks for your help Ken.
  • thanks for the parts resource.  I'm fairly certain the spring is okay, it's just a little bit mis-shaped but not too far gone.  I don't think it will affect the operation of the shift shaft since it is operated manually.  And yes, it's going to be fun putting it back together....I took plenty of pictures so hopefully they serve as useful references.  My goal is to end up with less than 5 'extra' parts when I'm done. Lol  The only part/piece that has me worried is the synchro hub. When disassembling it, the three little shift 'plates' dropped before I could record their orientation/position.  I'm referring to assembly instructions found in the lower right hand side of section 8-11 from the '48-'52 shop service manual. 
  • you're explanation is more clear than the manual....thanks.  I did notice the numbering was off which is slightly maddening.  I cross-referenced it with the master parts book in order to get my bearings (pardon the pun) as to which part was which. I'm feeling much more confident about those little plates now.  I've got the case sitting in a bucket of simple green and I hope to begin reassembling tonight.  The gears look decent but we'll see what happens.  The oil resembled an over-zealous metallic flake paint job so the refresh should do this unit some good.  Hopefully the gears aren't too far gone.
  • The reassembly is coming along nicely..however I'm currently stuck at the point at which I am reinstalling the cluster gear.  I had thought I could simply lift the gear from below to align it but it doesn't seem to be an easy fit against the main gear set and the assembly is resting about 1/2" lower than the shaft holes.  The manual refers to a counter shaft driver that is supposed to help bring the cluster into alignment so I'm guessing this is a tight fit that takes a little persuasion but I don't have the special driver.  Does anyone have any tips/tricks on getting the cluster back into place?  My thrust washers and thick steel washers are all in correction position.  
  • I was able to fashion a driver from a 12" piece of 1/2" black pipe.  I filed the threads off the pipe, cut a 3" long wedge on an angle down one side of the pipe and then filed all of the rough edges smooth.  I also beveled the front of the "driver" to help guard against gouging as best I could.  The driver worked great and the 1/2" pipe O.D. was an absolute perfect fit.  I was able to bump the driver through, starting from the back of the case and then follow it with the cluster shaft.  This wouldn't be a recommended solution (iron pipe) due to the potential for gouging the shaft bushings but it worked great in a pinch.  If I had more time available (and patience too) I would probably order a custom made tapered drift.  I saw a seller on eBay that will make drifts to any size and they seemed to run just about $20-$25 for the size this job would require.  The transmission is all buttoned-up and back together.....now to install it and test her out. 
  • Glowplug
    Glowplug Expert Adviser
    My driver is a used shaft
  • I just sold my craftsman 6" lathe 2 weeks ago.  I hadn't used it in three years and sold it to raise funds for the clutch.  I was kicking myself for sure.  : (
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