Rear main seal replacement

50ClubCoupe

I've read through a couple of old threads regarding the replacement on the rear main but I have a couple of questions I'm hoping someone can help with.  I ordered the two-piece seal from Dale Cooper and I'm ready to tackle this job.  I currently have the transmission, clutch and flywheel removed.  In looking at the manual it says I should remove the oil pan and remove the rear main bearing cap. My first question is how to I remove the oil pan since I currently have it sitting on top of a jack (used in order to remove the tranny) to support the back end of the motor.  If I let the jack down it would put too much stress on the front engine mounts and tear them out.  Should I just hold the engine up with a cherry picker?  Secondly, I've seen threads mention that, if you're going to replace the seal with the motor in the car, it's easier to have the tranny, clutch and flywheel removed.  Well, I have all of that removed and I'm not sure what gains that provides.  It still looks like I have to drop the pan in order to pull the cap and remove the old seal, correct?  Thanks for any help.

Ol racer

FYI

im sure you will figure a method...Cherry picker would work but perhaps put long bolts in back of motor plate then chain to each side, or bolts in crank then chain across to each frame rail to hold. Be sure to use Dap Permatex black RTV in corners of seal and maybe rotate Seal slightly so gaps not near corners of cap

48Sed

I held the engine up by bolting a piece of heavy steel on each side of block to act as legs,worked great.

The vertical pieces had a foot on the bottom to sit nice and flat on the floor. 

50ClubCoupe

I like the legs....safe and effective. 

IvarSweden

Why not just lift the engine out of the car? A lot easier to work on and no risk of instant death, crushed under 700 lbs of cast iron!

dlydonmn7fav

had the same thing happen as ken did i tryed 3 time i have 3 seals for sale with only 5 or 6 miles on them. rope seal 1 time

Ol racer

Gosh, They may have had a bad run on those seals because Ive put them in 4 or 5 motors including 2 race motors since someone posted on the old Forum to use 318 Mopar Neopreme rear Seals a number of years ago. Maybe I just got lucky or maybe their going to drip eventually... .

keithfullmeryahoocom

Chuck, you're just "livin' right!"

Ol racer

keithfullmeryahoocom said:

Chuck, you're just "livin' right!"

Oh Keith, I dont know about 'that' but recall putting a lot of black Permatex RTV in the groove & cap just to be safe....Hopefully filled the gap....

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I'm with Ken.......replacing a main seal "on the bench" during assembly  isn't a tough job, but you only want to do it once and do it when it's easy. It's a costly, time consuming pain in the rear (main, that is) to change it after the fact. I've used the old rope/woven style since I was a kid, with no issues. The one used in the splashers is the easiest.

F

maasfhcenturylinknet

Strange--I've not had a problem with the motors i have done.
Randy

super651

Ken, I had a leak on my latest 56-308 engine and it looked like it was the upper part of the lip type seal but, after cleaning the backing plate very good it was not the seal.

The upper long mounting flywheel bolt that threads into the back of the block and protrudes in the rear valve train was leaking oil down the threads and between the rear spacer plate.

  I removed the bolt and put lots of black RTV on the threads and no more oil leak. ( I knew this could be a leak problem when I assembled it but over looked anyway)    Rudy B.