262 Headers/Dual exhaust pics

airbrushguy

Does anyone have good pics of headers on a "49 262 engine and some pics/description of how they continue into dual pipes on out the car?

Thanks

airbrushguy

C'mon, somebody has done this and has pics of it, don't they?

airbrushguy

Somehow this is in classified section, I didn't think I posted it here, but if so, could somebody help me move this to the Hudson section?

Thank you

RL Chilton

Moved to "Hudson".  

RL Chilton

Sounds like your car, Ken.  

airbrushguy

Interested in specific info as to how they interfere with wheel well, intake manifold, driveshaft tunnel and how they can be made to exit rear. Any shots from below would help.

For some reason, old pics on this site don't show up in old posts??

Thanks

GrimGreaser

Wish these were mine - I do believe they came from a user on this site.

RL Chilton

FWIW airbrushguy, Mine's slightly different, but the routing of the pipes is similar to what you are going to have to go through.  

'52 Hornet, so it has the upright wheel well.  '52 and later is the toughest to do duals on, I can assure you.  There's just not much room, especially for bigger pipes.  I don't have pictures handy, but can explain.  Also, what I got is not what I wanted, but the guy doing my exhaust made decisions w/o me.  Instead of headers, I've got the 7X splitter which takes it from the manifold and dumps into two pipes right away.  Those two pipes need to run side by side on the passenger side of the driveshaft until you get to the heat deflector where the muffler(s) go.  Here, you can dump both pipes into one muffler and exit with two or use two mufflers, 1 for each pipe.  Mine's got a single muffler, but both options work.  From there, once you go over the rear end, the driver side can divert up by the top and in front of the gas tank and then turn beside the tank and continue on out the back.  

You can't really be up beside the frame at the rear, you have to be below it, as there's just no room.  So, if you have a tail dragger, like mine, it's a little sketchy on going up a steep driveway (but the stance is killer). Mine is lowered 1-1/4" in the rear.  

If you run seperate mufflers, I highly recommend a crossover somewhere, for a smoother exhaust note.  If you don't, and you run something like glass packs, you get a loud BAP-BAP-BAP on the rundown, which is obnoxious to me.  I prefer a smoother rumble, but that's just personal opinion.    

RL Chilton

Here is a shot of the side, showing the stance.  

RichardD

More photos for the mix !! Click on the first photo and then progress to others; the notes will describe photos(a plus of Picasa).

https://picasaweb.google.com/101895503406236284856/HudsonExhaustPhotos?authkey=Gv1sRgCIaS3L2ZgpyqUw

airbrushguy

Wow, you guys are great. Looks like my plan to exit at each corner of the rear bumper (possibly through it?) is going to be difficult if not impossible. Has anyone tried it?

Thanks

airbrushguy

Exhaust tips each side?

RL Chilton

I did dual exhaust deflector shields both sides.  

airbrushguy

RL Chilton said:

I did dual exhaust deflector shields both sides.  

Do you have a pic of how it looks after it goes over the rear?

thanks

RL Chilton

Not handy.  . . 

airbrushguy

Wow, Russel, just checked out your blog. Beautiful work. You never did put the Clifford headers on?

RL Chilton

I never had any headers.  In hindsight, I would rather have them . . . at least until the tappets need adjusted.   )

RichardD

Good for Header folks !!

Hienkel429

With this news I just might keep the hydraulic tappets when we rebuild..

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I feel that I should comment:

Although the hyd. tappets used in that engine are likely similar to any of that era, and for the next couple of decades, I have no data to make the claim that the Vintage Full Flow set-up will make them reliable. This is not to say that it won't.....I just haven't had any experience with them.

It stands to reason that if the typical Ford/Chrysler spin-on, full flow element at about 20-25 microns (Fram PH8-A, PZ-1, NAPA 1515, etc., etc.) was adequate for the engines by those manufacturers, it should yield the same results for the Hudsons. I'd be tempted to use a less "open" bypass element at 5 or 10 micron in addition (not instead of) for a "final polishing" of the oil. I use a NAPA 1051 (Ferrari spec @ 10 micron) along with the Full Flow system, but I don't have hydraulics.....I'm just anal about oil cleanliness.

If you do reuse the original hyd. tappets, they must be properly dis-assembled and cleaned, keeping the parts matched to each lifter body.

Check your PMs.    

Frank Hughes