1952 Hollywood

BarryD1952

I recently purchased a 52 Hollywood that has been apart for many years. I have a lot of questions that I hope can be answered here to help me complete the restoration.
Thanks
Barry

Jon B

You've come to the right place, Barry!  Fire away!

Are you acquainted with Hudsons?  If you are, then we won't have to point out all the "quirks" about Hudsons, when we answer your technical questions.

I should do my duty here and ask you if you're aware of the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane Club (or maybe you're already a member).  A very useful clearinghouse for parts, information, and an entry point for the worldwide Hudson fellowship!  The website is at http://www.hetclub.org/

tombia

Hudson Wasp or Hornet???

Glowplug

Many answers to are available on my website: http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/index.html#RESTORATIONAIDS

BarryD1952

Jon, I know very little about Hudson's.

Tombia,  It is a Hornet.

Oldfarmer, Thanks

I'll start off with that I have 3 sets of bumper guards, even though they look similar, only one set fit the bumpers front and rear.
The guards that fit are stamped on the backside with an L and R. When you swap sides on the rear they fit and from pictures I've seen they look correct. They are flush with the bottom of the bumper.
From pictures of other cars it looks like the front guards hang lower than the bumper.
Did they use the same guard front and rear?

Glowplug

Some guards are stamped with LF/RR etc the guards on the 1952 are interchangeable front to rear but opposite sides.

Jon B

Barry, since you're new to Hudsons I'll tell you a couple things (though you may already know them).

Before investing a penny in the car, do a quick check of the condition of the perimeter frame, especially around the rear wheels and further back.  Hudsons are not fated to rust out, but if they do, this is where you will find the first manifestations.  Rust-out is not fatal, but you have to keep the repair costs in mind before you start your other expenditures.

The other quirk is the fact that the clutches run in oil -- "Hudsonite" as it is known.  If you have an automatic transmission you won't have to worry about that.  If you have a manual shift you may find that the clutch is stuck to the flywheel, due to the oil having leaked out of the cork discs.  All this is probably fixable without major surgery, however.

BarryD1952

Any Idea what cars these go on?
The 2 on the right are a set, the 2 on the left are completly different.

BarryD1952

Here..........................................

BarryD1952

Jon, this car is in it final stages of restoration, it is a rust free car that has been garaged since coming from California in 1976.

BarryD1952

I have a few sets of wheel covers. One set are made of steel front and back with the face chrome plated.
The condition of these make me believe these may be aftermarket or reproduction covers.
Another set has a steel back with a polished stainless face and another set are stainless front and back.
What is correct for this car?

Lance

Barry, The correct wheel cover for this car is a complete stainless wheel disc that has the red triangle painted in the center of the cap. Beauty rings optional. Up to the 1951 model year Hudson had a galvanized steel base and a plated steel cover. They were heavier and prone to rusting. With a full stainless cap they may get dirty or dinged but they will not rust.   BTW there is a slight difference in the front and rear outter bumperettes. The picture you took of the 4 bumperettes are showing 3 front and one rear. The first one from the left is a rear bumperette. It looks very much like the front except the angle of cut of the bottom part of the rear bumperette imndicates it a rear model.  

BarryD1952

Thanks Lance, that confirms what I thought on those covers.

The engine in this car is painted gold. I was told it is an Oldsmobile color. Is this correct for this car?

SuperDave

That is about as close to original gold as you will get.

Hudson Grandpa

enclosed find original wheel covers on a 1951 coupe in 1953.  I'm the good looking stud in the car.

BarryD1952

Thanks SuperDave

Great picture Grandpa

tombia

Nice looking car

RL Chilton

Lance has it right.  Bumperettes are front and rear, L & R.  They are all different.  Rears use the short "tails".  Yes, you can bolt them on the bumper in any configuration, but if you swap L to R (or vice versa) they sit crooked.  If you swap F to R (or vice versa), the tails don't match the bottom of the bumpers.  I see cars all of the time that rarely have all of the "correct" ones in the right places.  I went through about a dozen "sets" before I found a full complete quality set.  

BarryD1952

Thanks Tombia

Thanks RL Chilton, that confirms what I thought I was seeing in pictures. I hope to get the right set for the front on the first try.

BarryD1952

Doc, it is Texas tan. Every picture I have taken in the building looks too red. In person it doesn't look anything like the pictures. It was matched to the factory color in the door jams.

BarryD1952

I had found on this site that all of the step down cars used the same bumper stamping, but the holes were placed in different locations.
I find it hard to believe that the front bumperettes came from the factory like this , when the rears fit nice and tight to the bumper..

BarryD1952

This is what that same bumperette looks like on the other side. The gap would be wider if it was pointing straight ahead.

Glowplug

removed the post

Glowplug

Information from the Master Parts Book   1948-1954

BarryD1952

DocHubler said:

Your bumper guards are transposed as suggested.  Common mistake on re-installation.

I should have worded the second picture better. The second picture is the left guard on the right side of the bumper.
I was simply showing that it doesn't match the contour of the bumper.