Re-doing brakes and suspension

parkerm

I am replacing the brake system in my 1940. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and the little springs and pins. I suppose I should replace the brake lines from what I have read in past posts. I saw Inline tube was mentioned for brake lines so I have sent them an email. I have been using DOT 3, but I see a lot of recommendations to upgrade to DOT 5 silicone based fluid. Agreed?

Since I am doing the brakes I thought I should do the shocks and since I am doing the shocks I am now thinking I will do the front coil springs. Should I replace the rear leaf springs since I am doing the front coils?

Any recommendations about where to acquire coil springs and leaf springs for the 1940 super six?

Marvin

Lee ODell

Hi Marvin, I would recommend replacing the brake hoses also.. Brake hoses deteriorate from the inside out. What is wrong with your springs? Broken - sagging?

Jon B

I'd vote for the DOT-5, have been using it for about 20 years in my Terraplane.  Recently I noticed that one wheel cylinder was leaking; that seems to be the only problem I've had since switching to silicone.  (The local parts store ordered in a new wheel cylinder so I just replaced it, rather than try to rebuild it.)

Eaton is one of the better-known vintage spring companies, but I'm sure there are several.

parkerm

Lee,

I forgot to mention that I am replacing the hose also. I ordered them from Wildrick. No the springs are not broken and don't appear to be sagging. I only know that when I hit a bump or pot hole in the road it feels like the car bottoms out. The front shocks are worn out, but I thought perhaps it would be a good idea to replace the coil springs also. Do you think I should replace the shocks first and see how the car responds?

Jon,

Thanks for the info about your use of silicone.

Marvin

Lee ODell

Marvin, I would replace the worn out shocks first with the best shocks available. They will slow the up and down motion and help some in turns. Might consider heavy duty shocks. We have a lot of speed bumps in our neighborhoods which pitch these older cars up in the air and come down hard at other than very slow driving over them. Check your Mechanical Procedure Manual. There is probably spring height measurements between frame and lower control arms and rear end. It is a lot of work changing springs which may or may not give you the desire ride you expect to get. My 52 Hudson Mechanical Procedure Manual has coil spring ride height between frame and lower control arm as well as front and rear shock lengths, compress and extended. The 40 manual probably has the same information that will help you find current shock with correct measurements so they will not be to long or too short. Lee

parkerm

Thanks Lee I will check my manual for the spring height measurement.
Marvin

Lee ODell

Marvin I apologize, I worded spring height incorrectly. I should have said ride height measurement. Measure the distance from the top of the lower support arm rubber seat to the bottom of the upper rebound bracket. My 52 manual measurement is 3 13/16. for my hornet. Hope your manual has a picture like mine. Shows the measuring points for better visualization where the measuring points are. The 40's suspensions are basically the same as stepdowns so measurement may not be much different. Lee

parkerm

Guys,

I have gotten to the point of removing the rear drums so I can begin the brake rebuild. I discovered that on the rear drivers side that the leather oil seal is either not there or worn out.

This is from my mechanical procedure manual. "Spring pressed hydraulic leather oil seals fitted between the caps and the rear wheel hub prevents leakage of oil onto the brake shoes"

Please look at the photo for reference. I cannot tell if there is a leather oil seal in place or not, but I certainly see that a lot of oil has leaked probably for a long time.

Where does one acquire a new leather seal or is there a modern day replacement for the leather seal?

Do I need to replace the wheel bearing or can I just put the new seal in?

Thanks,

Marvin

Uncle Josh

I list these numbers for the seal.

Victor 49218, or NAPA CR 17310

Make sure the vent on top of the axle is not plugged and pressurizing the innards. 

Save the bearing if you can because they're the tapered inner cone and they don't make them any more.  There are a very few floating around and they are pricey.  Fortunately, if lubricated properly, they last almost forever.  If you have to replace it, get a replacement axle with a good bearing.  I did replace the outer race on my old truck, reasoning that if I were a bearing, I'd rather have a  new ring, which are cheaper than dirt, than the rough one I was running in.

Lubricate the bearing by removing the 1/4 in pipe plugs just behind them and insert a Zerk fitting and give them 2 squirts a year with a grease gun.  If the bearing isn't grumbling, it's probably OK. If you're the only one greasing them, leave the Zerk in there.  If you take it to a garage for a grease job, they will blow your seals, thus the pipe plugs to keep them out of there.

I'd leave the springs alone, unless they are obviously broken and/or mother is over 500 lbs and it leans that way.

Larry, owner of a 40, Victoria Coupe