Brake drum removal

rowdydog

Hello all my fellow Hudson owners.  I have a little problem I'm working on a 1936 Hudson Terraplane series 61.  The car has been sitting since 1958 I've been told surprising it rolled when I bought it I thought it would be all locked up.  Ok back on the subject, I have the body off and on a rotisserie I got to the frame today with the intention of taking the drums both front and rear off so I started to take off the rear and ran into a problem.  I back the adjusting screw all the way out and the inertia nut I loosened.  So here is my question are these on a tapered shaft?  And if so what's the best way to get them off?

Thanks All in advance,

Mike

Jon B

I don't know if you'll be able to see these photos, but here is an illustrated "how to" from our Hudson club website's photo album:  http://www.hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_simgallery&view=album&aid=26&Itemid=656

Because the photo album is supposedly only able to be viewed by those who are registered with the website, you may not be able to see the series of photos.

If not, then I'll just tell you that you need a regular hub puller, that looks like this:


and yes, it's a tapered shaft.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

.....With rare and expensive bearings, having a tapered bore that matches the shaft. Be careful with them (if they're in good condition) and keep the cups and cones mated. Read and believe the manual or seek advice when it comes to re-installation on the taper.

Frank

rowdydog

Hi Jon,

Yes I can see the photos doesn't look like this is going to be a lot of fun.  Thank you for your help.

Mike

rowdydog

If the bearings don't appear to be leaking and in good shape would I be smart to just leave them alone?

rowdydog

Thank You Frank for a picture of the tool now I just need to find one.  I'm thinking if the bearings look good and don't see a leak of not touching them, but as I think of it sitting so long they might of gotten a flat spot guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.  I'm thinking better just do new bearings because I don't want to do this more that once.

Mike

Uncle Josh

There aren't any new tapered bearings except for a few hoarded in some of our stashes for a rainy day.  They won't develop a flat spot so don't worry about that.  Remove the small pipe plug from the housing just behind them and replace with a Zerk, then give them about 5 slow pumps with a hand grease gun. then only 2 or 3 pumps a year. If they seem to rotate freely without grumbling, leave them alone.  Your other option would be to find used axles with good bearings on them.

When you get the puller on, support the axle so the hammer blows on the dog bone are solid.  Only back the axle nut off about 1/8 of an inch..  That way, when the taper pops loose it'll scare ya but it won't go across the room, possibly taking some of you with it..

rowdydog

Thank You Uncle Josh I will do that.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they won't do as much grumbling as I do lol. I'll put my catcher's gear on when I release it so it won't hurt to much thanks again.

Mike

Jon B

Two suggestions: 

1. Make sure the wheels turn freely before you start to remove the brake drum.  Be sure the brakes aren't locked, 'cause then you are fighting all that extra resistance.  (If they are, then just release the pressure by turning the star wheel).

2. After you've whaled on the "dogbone" a few times with a heavy hammer, and the darned thing isn't budging, try banging the perimeter of the drum with a hammer to set up a vibration.  This may jar the hub loose from the taper due to all the built-up pressure from your whaling.  Eventually it will let loose.  You may want to face this now (instead of putting it off) because sooner or later you'll need to get behind the drum to fiddle with the brakes.  Once you get the drum off, you can coat the surfaces with anti-seize grease so that NEXT time it comes off a lot easier.

You'll probably only need to grease the bearings, they last a long time.  If you DO need one, let us know; there are plenty of good used ones around, and if you check the price of a new one at your local parts house, you will pass out.

rowdydog

Got it Jon,  I'm hoping because this guy parked it in the 50's that the bearings are good.  No one knew why he parked it when we redid the babbitting it wasn't to bad couple had some knicks but I wanted this to be an engine that I only did once and not have to keep pulling it apart.  I did get the new fiber cam gear it wasn't cheap at all.  I can imagine what a parts store would charge seems everyone I talk to about different things on it like upholstery, babbiting, and the rest all they know is the number $3000 lol.  Thanks for the helpful tips I'll make sure to take it easy on this I have learned for making so many of these they are hard to find parts for.  I sent an email to NADA price guide told them they need to re-evaluate the prices for these cars I asked them if they ever saw any come up for auction at these sales like Mecum or Barrett Jackson?  Seems that no one really knows for sure how many of these cars are still out there and how many got turned into the war effort in the 40's.  I have the 2 door (Suicide Door) series 61 Brougham nice car but a lot of work.  Here's what I started with.  Putting it back to original condition.

Marconi

DO NOT use anti sieze or anything else on the taper! By using anything like a lubricant when the hub is put back on the axle it will just keep drawing on more and more to the point of cracking the hub. Just make sure everything is clean and dry.

Jon B

Rowdy, I'm not sure how much you paid for the fiber timing gear but they're usually not that much.  Here's one that failed to bring an initial bid of $25 on Ebay this month: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-37-38-39-40-Hudson-Timing-Gear-Fiber-Rare-Vintage-Hot-Rod-NOS-/131832088624?hash=item1eb1ce0830:g:rxcAAOSwR5dXS8qT&vxp=mtr   Actually, the gear to have would be the (later) aluminum replacement gears, which don't fail at the worst time (I've had one in my '37 for 38 years with no problems) but unfortunately they ARE scarce!

In your search for parts have you been contacting Hudson vendors within the Club?  I've always found that NOS engine parts have been fairly reasonable, although the newer repro engine parts are more expensive since they have to pay factories the going rate to produce them.  I'm not sure whether you're in the HET, but that should be the first place you start looking for parts.

Are you a Hudson newbie, perchance?  If so, are you aware of the cork clutches?

lostmind

Jon B said:

Rowdy, I'm not sure how much you paid for the fiber timing gear but they're usually not that much.  Here's one that failed to bring an initial bid of $25 on Ebay this month: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-37-38-39-40-Hudson-Timing-Gear-Fiber-Rare-Vintage-Hot-Rod-NOS-/131832088624?hash=item1eb1ce0830:g:rxcAAOSwR5dXS8qT&vxp=mtr   Actually, the gear to have would be the (later) aluminum replacement gears, which don't fail at the worst time (I've had one in my '37 for 38 years with no problems) but unfortunately they ARE scarce!

In your search for parts have you been contacting Hudson vendors within the Club?  I've always found that NOS engine parts have been fairly reasonable, although the newer repro engine parts are more expensive since they have to pay factories the going rate to produce them.  I'm not sure whether you're in the HET, but that should be the first place you start looking for parts.

Are you a Hudson newbie, perchance?  If so, are you aware of the cork clutches?

I have some I tried to sell on this site for $15 , No sales . They will end up in a dumpster when I'm gone.

PaulButler

Mike when I did mine on my 1939 112 it took a while and some perseverance but they come off eventually.

 

farmermike

Mike,

On my 35 Terraplane I had a dickens of a time getting the rear hubs off. You can see the discussion by searching for "35 Terraplane rear hub removal on this site".

I took Jon B's advice and whaled on the stupid drums after having so much pressure applied to the puller I made I has bending the puller. When it comes it does it with a bang. Leave the nut loose on the shaft so it will catch the drum if it comes off with a bang. You do not want your face in front of the drum when it lets loose. 

Check the seals when you get the drums off. My bearings were OK but the seals were shot. They are still available. 

Good luck,

Mike

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Jon gets credit for the puller photo.

My advice: don't strike the puller screw with a BFH, or at least not very hard. It's possible to shatter the axle-end thrust button with too aggressive blows. If it's taking too much wrench torque to break it loose, you can "mushroom" the axle threaded end......creating yet a bigger problem. Some heat on the hub while under tension, plus some judicious tapping on the puller screw should do it. If not, let us know. I prefer a 3/4" Extra-Fine (20 TPI) nut with a center-drilled cap welded on it to prevent the mushroom issue.

F