Condenser problem
54Hollywood
Senior Contributor
in HUDSON
Hi everyone,
Need a little help with a condenser problem. Back in May the condenser in our '54 Hornet died so I went out and bought a new one and the car ran great until the condenser died today, less than 100 miles later. So maybe I'm buying the wrong one or could there be another problem with the ignition system that's causing it to fail? The car is a '54 Hornet that has been converted to 12v but still running points, condenser & ballast resistor. The condenser I'm using is a BWD G124P purchased from CarQuest that shows to be the correct condenser for a '54 through '56. But, since the car is now 12v, is there a different condenser I should be using or again, could there be a different issue I need to investigate that's causing the condenser to fail? Just a wee bit frustrated today. Please help, thanks.
Tim in WI.
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Comments
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The condensor does not care if ti is 12 or 6 volts. Basically the only thing that makes a condensor fail is internal. Buy another one.0
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Actually, given the failure rate of modern condensers, buy a dozen!
(and if you see any NOS ones at a flea market, buy those too!)
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Buy one from a HET vendor who sells nos parts. Several posts here over the past years concerning Chinese parts.0
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Hi fellas,Thanks for your input. So if I am understanding your replys correctly, the problem isn't caused by some other fault in the ignition system, just a defective condenser. True?Geoff, I had always believed that a codenser didn't care if it was in a 6 or 12 volt system but I wanted to make sure, so thanks. Jon, I think you're right about buying a case of them just to be safe and OldFarmer, I will contact Dave Kostansek about a quality condener, or two.Thanks again.Tim in WI.0
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Tim,I installed a Pertronics electronic ignition and coil in my 54 Hornet's distributor some years ago. Has performed flawlessly since. Just a thought.Tom0
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On the other hand, I've been running a 12 volt '51 Hornet with original type ignition system for 20 years, with never a problem. I always buy ignition parts from NAPA.0
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I've had the same condensor on my Essex for the last 40 years. The drill for a standard tune-up at the local garage was always points, plugs, condensor. I reckon the probability of failure is exacerbated by replacing the condensor. If the condensor and coil are exactly matched, the points will never burn. if you get a crater in one and a peak on the other contact it indicates the wrong value condensor. The standard range is .18 to .22uf. "It it ain't broke, don't fix it". there is a misprint in the Hudson workshop manual for 1954 which states 18 to 22 uf, which of course has left the decimal point out.Geoff0
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"The direction in which the tungsten is transferred gives an indication for correcting the situation. If the tungsten transfers from the negative to the positive point one or two corrections may be made. Increase the capacity of the condenser, shorten the condenser lead, separate high and low tension leads between the coil and distributor, move these leads closer to the engine block. If the transfer is from the positive to negative point, reduce condenser capacity, move low and high leads closer together and/or away from the engine block, or lengthen condenser lead."
{from Delco book}
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RicharDThank's, that's really interesting!0
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