1942 hudson rear drum removal

Dirtysanchez

Changing brakes on my 1942 Hudson I need an idea of how to take out the rear drum

Jon B

Don't know if you can "see" this photo essay on the subject (it may only be visible to members of the Hudson club's website) but here is the how-to:

http://www.hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_simgallery&view=album&aid=26&Itemid=656

You will need a puller like the one shown, and a heavy hammer.  DO be sure not to remove the axle nut entirely, unless you want a flying brake drum to embed itself in your chest.

These pullers can still be purchased new (and if you're lucky you could find one in a yard sale or on Ebay).  Some tool rental companies also carry them.

Glowplug

If you are not a HET club member the information shown in Jon's post is not viewable. The same information is available (with providers authorization) on my website: http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/index.html Select - Brakes from left side of front page the select - brake drum removal at the Brake page Good Luck

Molin

I have just that problem, I have a puller just like the one in above website and turn it around with 5 feet long pipe as my friend hold the drum with a crowbar so must we could and hit the end even that we shouldent, heatet it up cold it down, it still there, I read that you shouldent  use a slidehammer, but what to do? its still there

barrysweet52

Molin, as mentioned loosen the axle nut only 1 or 2 threads, then tighten the the puller as much as you can, then go and have a beer or leave it overnight. Sometimes it may pop off during the night. You may find that you can tighten the puller a little more the next day. It will come off, sometimes you cant hurry it. Hope this helps. Barry

Jon B

The wheel turns, right?  (that is: the emergency brake is not on, preventing the drum from coming off?

My theory is: you tighten the puller, then you tap around the perimeter of the drum with a heavy hammer, to set up a vibration, while the tension is on.

Another theory (not mine) is that you heat the drum, and --- since things that are hot, expand -- the hole in the drum for the axle shaft, will heat up and the drum will come off.  I've even heard of some people putting hot charcoal from a cook-out, into a heavy pan on the ground under the brake drum, then rotating the drum to spread the heat evenly.  Obviously, this approach invites all sorts of disaster, so you must be careful!

Lee ODell

Penetrating oil on axle splines help. The left rear drum on my Hornet was very stubborn. I did not use penetrating oil. I hammered the dog bone off an on most of the day until I was worn out by dusk. Next morning with more hammering on dog bone it came loose. On the right rear drum I used General Motors Penetrant on the splines and gave penetrant a chance to soak in over night, then installed the puller and the drum came off easily. GM penetrating oil is the best off the shelf penetrant I have used for several decades. Unfortunately for us in California it is no longer available at GM Dealers. I order it now from out of state GM dealer parts department. Good luck. The drum will come loose. {GM Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor Heat Valve Lubricant part number 88862627} Lee

Uncle Josh

I've found that if you support the drum on a block of wood, you can get a more effective rap on the dog bone.

Also, 50-50 Acetone/Tranny fluid is a great penetrant.  I only had to torch the drum once.

Before you put It back on, put some Never Sieze on the axle