ALMOST got the 48 8 cyl to fire!

jrenda

well my friend Derek came up and we had a whole assortment of wires and batteries and cars going to try and get the engine running.  Didn't quite get it but def got close (we think).

Filled the dipper tray and oil pan

Bought a new 6v battery (only showed 5.8 when tested tho).

Pulled the plugs and spun the engine slowly by hand.  There were a couple spots where it felt a little tight but as we continued to slowly turn it they freed up.  It spins very smoothly by hand with nothing erratic or any random noises or harshness.

Hooked up the 6v batt to the starter and a jumper wire to the soenoid - and nada.  Solenoid is dead.

Bypassed the solenoid by going direct from bat to starter.  6v would not free the starter from the ring gear.  So tried an older 12v bat that sowed 9v when tested.  Stlll nada.  Decided to jump the 12v battery with my truck battery and that was enough to spin the starter free and we could watch the starter engage/disengage.

Next we added a little oil in the plug holes and cleaned all the plugs and reinstalled after marking them all.

Wired the ignition to the 6v battery and gave her a whirl.  ALMOST got her to run!  It bucked a couple times and we were getting spark (tho it seemed faint) so seemed to be a gas issue.  Poured a little gas in the carb top (the bowl was filled with fresh gas and we filled it manually so the old lines etc were skipped).  Same thing.  Close but no cigar.  With my hand over the carb I didn't feel any suction at all.

Decided to check the cap and I think that's where we caused an issue because after this we weren't getting any spark.  Tried it and now the carb was pulling some vacuum (with my hand over the carb i could feel the suction) but no spark.

So this weekend the 6v battery is on the charger and I'll be getting some more proper means to try and fire it and a new set of lead wires for the distrib.

Anyone think I'm on the right path or have any suggestions?

Of course I just realized the previous owner sent the generator out to be converted to 12v so now I i have to convert the coil, etc etc correct?  I do have a 12v wiring kit, I just need to make sur  I get the right ignition parts,.  

jrenda

forgot pic - here goes

50ClubCoupe

Sounds like you're getting close.  I would offer that you may want to check and double-check your ground connections. Make sure you ave a good clean connection from battery ground to frame, frame to motor, motor to body.  I had very similar issues with weak spark and a starter that wouldn't spin and that fixed it.  To test, I ran a good heavy jumper from the (+) terminal (still running POS ground) and clamped it right onto the starter mounting bolt.  Made a huge difference. I then added it permanently along with some additional grounds to the firewall and chassis.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

My guess: Those "tight spots" when turning by hand were the stuck valves being pushed open by the cam. If they're that stiff, they won't be closed by valve spring pressure, hence the "no suction" at the carb and no compression, which equals "no run".

F

charles4d

Coil working? Fuses ?

Glowplug

Frank you are spot on... Much of my experience with Hudson engines that have sat for a few years includes stuck valves. Thanks for posting

jrenda

coil has power, to both sides

we bypassed all factory wiring just to see if it would turn over.  One thing is we had spark before mucking with the distib and am wondering if we shorted the old cloth lead wires.  thats a simple fix so going to try that this weekend along with all the simple basics.  from there if i have to inspect the valves we will.  i appreciate all the advice,  1 step at a time.

Jon B

Wait.

I'm confused.

You say that the previous owner sent the generator out to be converted to 12 volt.

But you are working with a new 6-volt battery.

Is the car running on six volts or twelve? 

If only one component is 12-volt, I would suggest you try to stick to 6 volts and get the car running, before you start changing everything over to 12.   Otherwise you'd just be doubling the complexity of what you are doing.

If only the generator has been converted to 12 volts, you may be able to lay your hands on a used but working 6-volt.  Maybe you can even borrow one form someone, temporarily.

Once the car gets running smoothly, THEN you could contemplate switching to 12-volt.  One thing at a time!

Frankvintagefullflowcom

None of that matters if you have no compression. Fuel+correctly-timed, healthy spark+compression=running engine......maybe not running well, but running. If any one of those elements is missing, it must be corrected.

Whether or not the generator is 6 or 12 or even putting out anything at all doesn't enter into the issue at hand. After all, how much is it putting out at cranking speed? Zip.

You must bite the bullet and get to the real problem, no matter how much you don't want to.

F 

KustomKreeps

im guessing stuck valve - not end of world and can be freed up fine.

Is it catching at all? like a single chug or two?

As for suddenly no spark. points ok, condenser? rotor? no condensation in cap?

Your leads look to be in better nick than what have. 

If its first time trying to start for some time i would take off that old air cleaner. pop some needle nose pliers or something down the carb to hold open the chock so it breaths.

Advance the distributor a lil bit to help it catch.

squirt a lil engine starter in the carb. 

try turning over.

i found when bringing mine back to life after sitting for 47years i had to hold the accelerator linkage  just slightly to give it a lil gas.

You haven't fiddled with the carbs fuel screws or anything?

What you doing for cooling? just looking at your pic and see its looking a barren there.

Take a vid for us man.

Alex

Per

Jason,

     Have you replaced the points?  If not, you should.  In my experience, old points that have been sitting a long time are the surest way of having a lousy spark.  NAPA  has them.  As I mentioned to you a while ago, if all the intake valves are closing, then it is usually possible to start the engine even if a couple of the exhaust valves are stuck open.  If any of the intake valves are stuck open, it is not usually possible to get the engine to run.

                         Per

jrenda

sorry for confusion all.

Essentially the car is still stock 6 volt however the previous owner had started to make provisions for a 12v conversion - including having the generator rewired to work on 12v.

We were simply trying to ensure the engine wasn't stuck and determine if it made sense to try to revive it vs,. doing an engine swap. Based on the results it seems that it's worth trying.  I'm going to do a compression test tonight to see what that yields.  If all is ok then I will be going forward with the 12v conversion as much of the wiring is a bit mouse-enjoyed.  

As far as I can tell I'll need the following for the ignition with regards to a 12v conversion:

starter solenoid (got one)

coil

points (to replace as Per's suggestion)

lead wires

condenser

ballast

i have a 12v harness for the remainder of the car, etc