Pertronix 6v posi gnd

bryon

I've been having a problem with installing a pertronix 1362p electronic ignition module. I installed the first electronic mod.not knowing I would have to grind a rivet to make space, but I did it anyway. The car started great and ran great even if it tried to flood ( no more holding it to the floor to start it ).The next morning I started it to let it warm up so I could time it. I shut it of and plugged in the vacuum gauge and disconnected the advance and it wouldn't start. So I called Pertronix and they sent info on how to test the module and much to my dismay it had gone bad. They offered to replace it if I cut the wires off so short it couldn't be used again and send them a pix. Which I thought was nice because I had bought it off eBay and had it on the shelf for a year. A week later i installed the new one along with new pertronix recommended plugs, plug wires, rotor and dist cap and it started and ran great so we shined it up and drove 85 miles to Jackson Hole over the pass. In the process of doing a few chores it got hard to start, then it wouldn't start at all. so we called a tow truck and thanks to AAA and some friends who just happened to be in the big town shopping also who gave us a ride back over the mountain to home. So I removed the module tested it boxed up the coil and module and shipped it back so they could test it themselves and yes it was bad so they set out another. Now I have a new one and am scared to install it. What is causing these to go bad? Pertronix said I could be getting a voltage spike. I'm not leaving the key turned on. And I've tested for voltage with the key off. I am at a total loss as to why this system keeps going bad Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm afraid to drive far because I can't just stuff the points back in, although I'm trying to figure a way to make that possible maybe have them mounted on an extra distributor plate ready to go in service at the drop of a hat. HELP!

SuperDave

Good advice from Ken on the spare!  It sure is a pain on the stepdown 8!!

You posted that the Pertronix is a negative gnd. Is the car negative gnd.? 

I have been using Pertronix for many years on 12V NG and 6 volt PG. with no problems.

 One of the problems with the Pertronix might be traceable to non-resistive plug wires. For some reason it isn't mentioned enough. My theory is that the solid wires have a magnetic field generated around them and when the spark is removed, the collapsing field sends a reverse current spike back to the module. Just a guess.  I use good quality restive wires on all my cars. They don't reduce the spark as some folks think..

Good Luck, Dave

50ClubCoupe

I had the same issue with my kit.  I was only able to get approximately 50 miles before she cut out and died.  Luckily, I was only about 1 mile from the house when it quit so a buddy was able to tow me home.  I too had to modify the points plate which was upsetting because it was supposed to require 0 modifications to install.  So, after modifying the points plate I could no longer switch easily back to points in an emergency.  After the unit left me stranded I immediately sourced a good points plate and reinstalled the points.....she's been humming along ever since.  The Pertronix is now on the shelf.

As a note, the 1362P kit is for a positive ground car (P = positive) so if you have a negative ground system that may be some of your issue.  They do sell a 6v negative kit for the autolite distributors if you need it. 

iceblade10

I was interested in eventually "upgrading" to pertronix, but posts like these are scaring me off!  They seem awfully finicky... 

bryon

I'm sorry it is a positive grnd

bryon

Where would a voltage spike come from?

50C8DAN

SuperDave to my knowledge there is no Petronix unit available for the Hudson 8.  Checked on it a number of years ago and they wanted $500 to do a one off.  No thanks!  Oddly the Packard 8 dist. is exactly the same as the Hudson but runs in the opposite direction, but the Pet. unit will not work in the Hudson.  Just as well I did not do it.

Jay_G

I had a custom unit done for a Mallory for my 308.  $125.00 I think and it only took a few days.  But then again I walked in as they are down the street.  The coil and wires are important so I went with what they recommended.  So far no problems with this unit.  If you want to see the set up, the car is over at Vintage Coach. Ask for the triple weber setup.  But that is another story.

Jay

29sptphaeton

I put a Petronix kit in my 51 Commodore 8 Cylinder 2 years ago and I haven't had any problems, still running 6 volt positive ground. Ed Moore

50C8DAN

I tried to buy one about 6 years ago and Petronix said custom only, so they apparently changed their minds.  However, my old time points work just fine!

50C8DAN

Also if the N. Koreans do an EMP on us anyone with points and a condenser will be still driving around, Petronix, not so much!

SuperDave

Mine has been working fine for several years. Was off the shelf, not a special order. As I recall, I did swap emails with the tech department to determine the correct part numbers to order. I also bought the flame thrower coil that was recommended.

I have a 12 volt NG on my 262 in a 49 Brougham. 2+ years and running..

The only electronic ignition I had trouble with was for a Model A Ford. I don't think it was made by Pertronix. At least the packaging had no I.D. The first one lasted 7 1/2 miles and the next one lasted a couple months. Now it just needs to have the points occasionally cleaned and re-gaped.  Solved that problem by giving It to my son for has 50th BD.LOL

If you are using points,, Don't forget to lubricate the cam lobe to help preventing rubbing block wear and subsequent gap closing.

bryon

Thanks for the info everybody I installed the third module drove it out to wash it and back in the shop,so far so good. Am thinking about going back to points if this one burns out. Has anybody seen an extra points plate?

Nevada Hudson

Ken U-Tx said:

Boy, it seems hardly a month goes by on this forum where someone doesn't have an issue with those Pertronixs. I am sticking with points. My advice is get another distributor with the points all set, and keep it in the trunk to swap out. Easier to swap the distributor than to stuff & set new points in the existing distributor on the side of the road.

Ken has good advise. Keep an extra in the trunk, as you can avoid towing bills.

bryon

I just ground off the rivets and kept everything for just in case I wanted to go back to points Ken U- Tx I was hoping this module would work but I don't want to tow it again. Do you want to get rid of the plate with points? Or?

bryon

Where is the best place to get parts, like oem heater hose from control valve to heater core?

bryon

I'm at work till 16th and will look at my dist.to make sure it's right,which it probably is and get back to you. Thanks Bryon

onerare39

Byron,

Napa number 11220, cut off what you don't need.

John

bryon

You guys are really helpful thanks

bryon

Neighbor is a mechanic, he came buy and said maybe voltage regulator . Then he say the ugly condenser beside it and asked if it had ever been changed? I didn't have an answer. So what condenser is right for the arm. Side of the regulator? Anybody?

Geoff

Murphy's Law, sub-clause 119-b  " Any improvement installed to enhance reliability, performance, and economy will have a detrimental effect  on how it performs,  how much it costs to run, and how long it lasts.

Sub-clause 119-c, " All  fail-safe devices will destroy all adjacent components"  .

Sub-clause 119-c "If you fiddle with a thing long enough it will ultimately (a) fail (b) catch fire) or (c) break. 

SuperDave

Ahh I love Geoff's analysis.

I think the purpose of the capacitor on the regulator is to eliminate noise on the radio when the contacts in the regulator make and break. But I have been wrong before.

)

bryon

Well sounds like said capacitor is probably NOT the problem. Capacitor not condenser.

pseftoncomcastnet

A condenser is a capacitor. My 262 runs the 6 volt positive ground Petronix with a stock coil and it works great. I also long ago disconnected the radio noise suppression condenser/capacitor which has not affected the running of the car. My thought is that you may have a loose or otherwise intermittent ignition connection that is zapping the Petronix module when you have continuity.Trust you have eliminated the possibility that you are installing the module with leads reversed.

29sptphaeton

Have the plug wires been replaced with suppression type? You can't run solid core coil and plug wires with Petronix.

bryon

I when with what pertronix suggested. I think carbon core

bryon

I am running the 1.5 coil that came with the kit. I'm sure I have it wired correctly,Thanks

bryon

The funny thing is that it seems to fry when it's in key off position or when starting. It hasn't died on me it just won't start, so I unhook it and either test it myself or send it to pertronix and they test it

pseftoncomcastnet

Very weird! I have heard, but not experienced, that it is quite detrimental to the health of the module to leave the ignition switch in the "run" position for a lengthy period, as when the car stalls and you forget to turn the key before giving up for the day in frustration.

 Is there any chance your switch is shorted and the ignition primary is always live?  

EssexAdv

Radio cap is RC-1 is available at NAPA. Part # RC-1