Drivetrain update
Comments
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I've done MPFI on other engines using GM based factory systems so other than fuel and timing tables for the Hudson. it shouldn't be too bad.
Looking to do a standard log style manifold out of alum with the injector bungs added.
Haven't decided to run dual throttle bodies like the twin H or just plum for 1 large.
I just saw one similar to what I was thinking about on Langdon's stovebolt site. He has a new set of shorty headers for a flat head 6. Just not Hudson.
But that's a ways away, still got to get the drive train done and installed, then start playing with it.
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Here's some 8.8 diff info I have collected, should someone else be interested.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.shtml
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2005/04/Ford-adaptable-8-8-inch-rear-ends/1280689.html
Mine is the 92 diff
When looking in a JY make note of the flat pad just behind the pinion flange. That's where the vibration weight would bolt on. The 7.5 diff doesn't have the pad.
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Totally agree - I have visited 'the Ranger Station' page quite a few times for the information, and used that info in selection of a couple of rear ends that I plan to use on some of my projects.
IMO, the Explorer rear end (earlier 90's, w/drum brakes) is a good choice for Hudson pickups. They are very close to the 'width range' needed, plentiful, inexpensive, parts are readily available should it need a rebuild. And if you don't like the current gear ratio - that's as easy as a gear 'swap' to adjust or change it.
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FYI
Ron Fellows, 'the Clutch Man' has a Hornet Motor in a T Roadster with a 232 Crank and a Turbo... Its work in Progress but the engine Assy is complete and in the Chassis
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One more piece to the puzzle. Got my SS 7X valves in from Randy.
Still need the GM auto adapter. Dany Spring is out of production but hopes to get it going. I'm just running out of time.
Visited the machine shop and the crank cleaned up at .010, My #6 cyl that had rust, cleaned up at .060. Rods are cleaned, resized and new bushings installed.
I was going to replace the factory bolts with the 351C bolts but he said there wouldn't be much gain. He recommended just going to ARP nuts.
I also discussed removing the early crank studs and tapping for 1/2x20 bolts, but again he said the stock studs looked good and have 7/16 shoulders with 3/8 threads. My concern is the 3/8 threads. But I will be running an auto so there is less shock load then a manual clutch would have.
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Bill Wilcap makes a transadapters for Hudson engine to GM trans, kind of pricey but: http://wilcap.com/hudson.html
Here are some others: http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Hudson308.htm
http://riley-auto.com/ADAPTERS.html
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Thanks Dan. I've looked at all but the Riley. Never heard of them. Not much info or pics on the site, so waiting to hear back from them.0
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Wilcap has been around a long time and made adapters for lots of engines, so I would guess the would know what they are doing.0
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My only concern is the note: While it may not be avoidable, I try not to use modified or 1 off parts. I like being able to buy replacements off the
NOTES; The 308-350 comes drilled with the Chevrolet and GM Buick, Olds, Pontiac V8 bellhousing bolt pattern. The Mopar starter must be modified and the transmission case ground for clearance. You must specify which transmission was on the motor as the automatic and manual transmission crankshafts differ.
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Looks like Bendtsen’s Speed Gems Inc. has a starter included. I also saw a note on HAMB that Randy Maas did or possibly still does offer adapters? I did not see anything on his website about it however. Here is his link: http://www.21stcenturyhudson.com/index.html0
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Should have thought to ask Randy when I was on the phone with him.
Maybe tomorrow.
Thanks
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Talked to Randy. He said he's still a couple months out on his.0
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