Manifold to choke tubes

JasonNC

The two tubes that attach to the carburetor chokes on my Twin H have pretty much rusted away. Is there a replacement source for these items or better yet a way to modify the manifold to accept newer tubing? I tried Dave Kostanek and he doesn't have any.

Lance

Jason, try using small diameter copper lines that bend easily and you can add a compression fitting to replicate the origional perfectly. Now as for that asbestos heat shield....   I think Paul Schuster has some replacement material that isn't asbestos.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Copper is the easiest to work with but be sure to insulate it well (the "heat shield" referred to above) because copper is a great conductor of heat.....that's why it's used as radiator cores, etc. Failing to insulate may cause delayed/partial choke opening at warm up since the needed hot air gets cooled along the way.

F

JasonNC

I went to NAPA and that particular store didn't have copper tubing, but 1/4 steel brake line, matched to the correct compression fitting, worked just fine.  It looks just like the original.  I even used the asbestos "heat shields" as they were in pretty good shape.  Now if Richard D wants to chime in and explain what kind of insulation he has on his engine, then I'd probably consider replacing those old insulators with what he used.  

RL Chilton

You can find insulation tubes like this all over the internet and they look nearly identical to the originals.  You can even bend wire clips to go around the ends if you wish:

http://mustangparts.averagejoerestoration.com/mustang-170-200-choke-tube-set-mct003

RichardD

Jason, I still have the original insulation on the choke tubes. The shiny thermal slip-on tubing you saw covers the gasoline lines. You could use that if you wanted; go to Jegs or Summit.
>>  http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/Thermo-Tec-Thermo-Sleeve-Insulation/746616/10002/-1
Suggest you use the original type choke tube stuff tho.
Most use the Chevy pieces. Go here for availability
>>  https://www.google.com/#q=carburator+choke+tube+insulation

cheers~~~ Richard

ps: just noticed in photo that my insulation does not extend all the way down to the header connections so I need to buy new pieces also; tks for causing me to look. We will need to check the choke spring rotation position since the extra heat might cause the choke not to work correctly.
>>   https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMy3aN4mfHNX4u9B0C7w3WonYKiDXZZGueAF0NCM8f3L0KNT4F3cQ_OQrGoB2sxyw/photo/AF1QipOGtX202fqyF_ZZux803OBrgdlOY6uaLd9flZlc?key=dDRjWkFvRkJlekNVOTcyaHIzcHNfRVVVXzE4YWZB

DavidC

Just get a choke tube repair kit from your local auto store.  The tubing is the correct size, as it screwed right onto my carbs.  I have headers, so the other end went on an attachable stove, and not exhaust manifold, but I cannot see why it won't fit in the stock EM.  Dorman sells these kits.

DavidC

I believe I used two of the 03840 kits from Dorman.  Tubing is aluminum.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Comes up as a NAPA # NOE 6101116 also.

F

RichardD

David, curious why yours didn't screw into the headers like my photo shows? Suppose headers aren't the same. Mine are copper so probably homemade.

RichardD

Tks Ken. I have wondered about that. Now I will definitely check. I didn't install it. Maybe they are for O2 analysis: ha~~

DavidC

Richard, my Clifford headers are plain steel headers without any accommodation for choke tubes.  So I found hidden places to clamp the supplied stoves in the Dorman kit.  They work beautifully; you can see the chokes slowly opening during warm-up.