Headlight, Brake Lights, and Turn Signal Problems

JDutra

Hello everyone. I own a 1952 Hudson Hornet Sedan. It is still a 6 volt system and I would like to keep it that way. I am having some electrical issues concerning certain lighting circuits that I hope you all can help me pinpoint and resolve. The first concerns the headlights. They work; however, after a while, they begin to go off for about 5-6 seconds and come back on for 16-17 seconds. It occurs regardless of whether the floor dimmer is toggled to high beams. There are no issues with the parking lights (first click on the light switch) nor any issue with the tail lights. The instrument lights remain on even as the headlights go out. There is an audible click corresponding to the cycling. Based on my review of previous threads, this seems to be the circuit breaker on the light switch tripping. I checked the floor dimmer and saw that it was completely corroded. I replaced that hoping it would resolve the issue. Unfortunately, the problem remains. I think the issue is narrowed down to Circuit 20 and the light switch on the dash. Circuit 20 wiring seems fine, which leads me to believe that the switch (bimetallic circuit breaker) is shot. It does not appear that anyone sells a similar OE type replacement switch. Please steer me to a source if I am mistaken. Barring an OE replacement, I have seen the "universal" switch for sale with integrated circuit breaker. Will this work? The requisite connections all seem to be there, but the orientation is different. I also acquired a dual relay that I intend to install per suggestions on this board to reduce the load on the light switch. It seems that the relay should be mounted in the engine compartment near the battery and headlights along the driver side. One question, where/how specifically should I mount the relay to ensure proper ground? A second issue just arose. The brake lights will not work. The tail lights still work and the reverse lights still work. The courtesy lamps still illuminate. I thought that it could be a bad stop lamp switch, but the turn signals also will not work (they worked previously). I hit the lever on the column and do not even here the tick-tock and the jewel light on the dash does not illuminate. None of the wiring appears bad. The bulbs themselves are good. I checked the rear wire junction in the trunk and there are no issues there or with the wiring in the rear. Based on the symptoms, I suspect the issue is with the directional switch block. Are there other potential culprits? If the switch block, what would have caused it to suddenly fail? Please note that except for replacing the floor dimmer switch, I have made no other changes or fiddled with anything else. I really appreciate any guidance you all could provide. Regards, Jeremy

SuperDave

Jeremy,

One thing at a time..1st the headlights. You are correct, the most likely culprit is the circuit breaker, in your case is attached to the headlight switch. You should be able to find one at Advanced Auto or other chain auto store. The voltage is of no concern. The breaker is current sensitive. If you have trouble with mounting the new breaker on the switch, it can be relocated near the switch. The HL relay is also a good idea.

I'll let someone else address your TS /BL problems (perhaps I will learn something LOL)

Enjoy your Hudson!

Jon B

I think you should go ahead and install that relay.  Thus, the electrical current bypasses miles of bad wiring and corroded switches, and goes directly to the lights themselves.  The only function that the existing switches and wires serves, will be to send a signal to the relay so that it can power your lights.  I don't think the breaker will give you further problems UNLESS: 
     1.  There is a ground in the system
     2.  The circuit breaker is bad (which may be the problem now.  I believe these breakers are still available.)

As to grounding, just make sure the screw holding the relay, have a good "bite" into the body metal.  Or, you can simply run a ground wire from the mounting bolts to some other part of the body which is definitely grounded.

Once you install the breaker you may notice that your lights are brighter than you can ever recall.  Another suggestion would be to run a ground wire from each headlight body or socket (wherever it is supposed to ground) back to a ground screw somewhere on your body.  Rust around your headlight housing, can cause a bad connection.

53jetman

I would check the brake light switch - many times i've found that is the problem when you have lost both the brake lights as well as the turn signals

JDutra

Thank you everyone for your insights.  Installation of the relay is going to be this weekend's project.  I also have a brake light switch on the way, so hopefully the replacement will resolve that issue.

JDutra

Another quick question on getting power to the relay.  The instructions that came with my Niehoff relay say to connect the relay with 10 gauge wire to the battery side of the starter switch or direct to the battery.  I take it that I can run it to the battery side of the solenoid?  I recall reading another post where someone hooked it up to the voltage regulator.  Is there a benefit to hooking it up to the regulator instead of the solenoid?

JDutra

Thank you Ken.  I appreciate the quick response.

JDutra

Thank you again Ken.  I had not realized that there is a fuse between the ignition switch and flash relay.  If that has blown, it would make sense why nothing downstream works.  Do you recall type/rating of the fuse?

JDutra

Thanks again Ken.  I just pulled up the parts catalog and it says 10 amp (should have checked that before asking the question).  Do you recall if it is an AGA sized fuse?

JDutra

Quick update. I checked the direction indicator system and everything checks out. I also had a momentary brain freeze. When I checked the direction indicators I did. It have the ignition switch turned to ignition or accessory positions. Given the system is keyed of the accessory terminal on the ignition switch, having the switch in the off position would of course result in no indicators. With that problem--or non-problem--resolved, I think the fault lies with the stop switch. My plan is to remove the wires at the stop switch, and touch them together. If the brake lights illuminate, it tells me the fault lies with the stop switch. I will update the post if the problem resolves. Thanks again everyone for the advice.