54 Super Jet for sale in Georgia CL, now in my driveway

apeman

After owning 3 stepdowns, I am ready to try out a Jet. I found this one in the Florida, a 4dr. black Automatic Trans with red interior. Craigslist http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5906068200.html
in Cleveland, Georgia. The owner seems a bit elusive, doesn't want to talk on the phone, but we got to emailing.
He refused my request to have a local mechanic (at my expense) do an inspection, saying that he had done that in the past and they 'messed up' his car. He agreed to do a compression test, and the results sent to me were 64 - 67 psi. 
While doing research on '54 Super Jets, I came across this video, of which he made no mention. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdxjNnsFq-w   I find it odd he did not direct me towards this video as a potential buyer.
Does anyone have any knowledge of this car's history ? Or tried to buy the car ? When I emailed him that the
Engine Specification for that engine was 100psi, he did not reply, zap, cut me off.
I really like the fact that it is black, and an A/T; I guess it was too good to be true. Thank you.

allan

My guess is that he or the car is not legit., as in something to hide.  If you're really interested, head on down with truck and trailer, but be prepared to walk away empty handed.

50C8DAN

Looks like a nice Jet.  I agree with Allan, head on down and see what is there or get someone in the HET to check it out for you.  I believe there are a number of members in that area.  The owner may be one of those.  Sometimes old timers get tired of dealing with too many questions and a face to face would be preferable.

apeman

I agree, nothing beats a face-to-face, but I'm not in a position to drive to Georgia from California at the moment. What do you guys think about those compression readings ? In the video, he has the car running, and it's not smoking. Thanks for the replies !

Jon B

Have you looked for a Jet that's closer to home?  Tried Hemmings?  WTN?  Craigslist?  Surely this is not the only Jet currently for sale!

For instance, here's a two-door in California, on Craigslist, but it may have a chopped top. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5912993544.html

and a nice 4-door in Wisconsin:  https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/13520938

and this one in Ohio http://smclassiccars.com/other-makes/118847-1954-hudson-jetliner-jet-liner-202.html

and this one in Washington state  http://smclassiccars.com/other-makes/139806-1954-hudson-jet-liner.html

and this one in Oxnard, California http://smclassiccars.com/other-makes/128356-1954-hudson-jet-base-coupe-2-door-33l.html

and this one in Tennessee http://smclassiccars.com/other-makes/258392-1954-hudson-super-jet-base-coupe-2-door-33l.html

50C8DAN

In my opinion Hudson should have chopped the Jet's top anyway!  This one is a Twin H and 2 door!  too bad he did not post any pics.

iceblade10

Am I blind?  I don't see the prices on any of those SMclassiccars links...  There's a cute Hudson Metropolitan that I'd love to have for the missus... hehe...

apeman

That was me that posted on the open forum ! Thank you for the links. interesting, the link you posted for the Ohio Jet, is the same Jet for sale in which the seller (in Georgia) reported the compression readings to be 64, 63, 67, 65, 68 psi. Again, when I mentioned these readings were low, even emailing a scanned image from the shop manual, he stopped replying to my emails. If anyone in the club lives near Cleveland,  Georgia, I would cover your expenses to go look over that car.

apeman

I made some inquiries as to the prices of those without, and asked for photos of the chopped Jet here in California. If he replies, I will post them. Thank you all !

SuperDave

Sam Ramsey, a member of the HET club and son of a past member, Gene Ramsey lives in Cleveland TN. , Not that far from Cleveland Ga. Why not check with him?  He may know something about the car. HIs number is in the directory.

apeman

Thanks Dave I will do that. I google mapped it; it's just over a 2 hour drive. I wonder if it's possible the seller did the comp test wrong. As I recall, it takes 3 or 4 cranks to max out the pressure gage. The cylinder comp climbs up in steps. Could a Superjet engine even run at those mid 60's pressures ? A new engine is spec'd at 100psi min.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Unless it's just co-incidence, the consistently low compression readings across all cylinders implies either a technique issue or a gauge error. There are no differences in specified pressure between models/years, except maybe in the case of the high(er) compression Alumimum head version. In any case it should be at least 100 and within 5 psi of each other. A squirt of oil in one cylinder will indicate if the results are reliable.......a little hard to do since the plug hole is over the exhaust valve, but doable if necessary. I'm assuming that it's not valve leakage if they are all nearly the same.

F.  

Nevada Hudson

Check with Preston Stevens in Georgia. He knows Jets.

apeman

Thanks Nevada, I just sent Preston an email. I'm starting to think that even if I have to spend $5k on an engine rebuild, I'd have a nifty Jet with a new engine for $13k invested' not outrageous. The ad is still up http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5906068200.html

apeman

Well, after NONE of the other Jets for sale replied to my emails/phone calls, I rekindled communications with the owner of the '54 Black 4 dr in Georgia. We hit it off once we got to talking on the phone. He owns multiple cars, and knows his Hudson history. Finances/shipping are in the works, and I will post pix when it arrives in a couple weeks.
Again, thank you all for your input. I am quite excited at the thought of driving a Hudson again!

bull_islander

 congrats on the purchase

apeman

I am expecting the Jet in about 4 days !
Quite excited to tinker on a Hudson again.
(That's tinker, not tinkle)
-Andrew

Jon B

if you tinkle on a hudson, we will send out the Hudson Police.

apeman

Any of you Jet guys know how to drain the Hydramatic Trans fluid out of the torque converter? The manual says there is a rotating drain plug, to be removed at the 9 o'clock position and drained at the 6 o'clock position. I can't find the bugger. I was able to drain the main trans pan OK.
thanks,
-A
  

apeman

Thank you Jerry B. for the info; Remove the converter dust cover (two pieces, between the trans pan and oil pan). With car in neutral and off, rotate the torque converter until you see a 7/16" plug. Align it so it's at the very bottom. Place oil catcher under it and remove plug with a 7/16 socket. Between the torque converter and transmission drain plug, you get about 10 of the 11 quarts that the A/T system uses. The manual specs 'TYPE A', now obsolete. Use ATF Dexron/Mercon. Before refilling, take the time if you can to drop the Transmission bottom pan and clean it out, as well as the sump screen. Have a new gasket handy !

apeman

Hudson Jet Update: Well, it's Mar 22, and the Jetliner has been keeping me busy. This car appears to have had no maintenance for many, many years. The transmission fluid came out like black coffee. Crankcase oil and differential were both crying out for new oil as well. I re-wired the whole car, using modern wire. I pulled the gas tank. It had an old rag inside, a rotted-out fuel sending unit, and rust.  It's clean now, and I Red-Koted it, plus a new fuel sending unit (thank you Paul Schuster from the HET club) , so now I have a working fuel gage. 
   I pulled up the rotten carpet, and ordered a pre-cut replacement. But first I had to chemically treat the rust on the floor, fiberglass over some rust holes, then prime and paint; whole floor is now a nice, strong gloss black. I put the carpet down without glue for easy access to the brake master cylinder and transmission dipstick. 
   Ah, the brakes. .  the rear wheel cylinders were pitted and leaking, causing the shoe linings to turn to mush. I sent the cylinders and shoes to White Post Restorations in VA for brass sleeving and relining. The fronts were pretty clean, must have been done within 3 years, so I left them alone. The previous owner probably didn't know how to get the rear drums off ( puller), so that's why they were in such bad shape. I installed all new Stainless steel hard lines, and stainless braided brake lines, as this is cheap and easy to do. Also, had to put in a new Master Cylinder. Now I can stop.
   Chrome is so dang expensive, but I succumbed to the allure, and chromed the turn signal lever, shift lever, horn ring, and the center hub-cap looking thing on the continental kit. All 4 pieces cost $420 to chrome.
   Of course I did the basic tune up; points, condensor, dist. cap, oil filter, etc.
I sent my radio up to the Engel brothers for an overhaul, cost $325 I think, but it
seems to work fine now. AM radio only, so I can listen to talk radio, Mariachi music, or Portuguese big band. . .  Wolfman Jack, how I miss you on the AM dial ! ! . . Oh well. . .. 
   So I'm cruising it around, lots of fun. Next is the A/T needs some band adjustments or something. Shifts too quickly through the gears. Pretty sure no one has touched the trans since new in 1954.
  Oh, a thank you to Ron Falk for selling me the odds and ends I was missing !
Hudsonly,
-Apeman
1954 Hudson Jetliner 4 dr. A/T

Jon B

Congratulations for sticking with it, considering how many things were wrong with the car.  I hope you are richly rewarded for your efforts, with the continuing pleasure of ownership.

onerare39

Let's see some pictures!

53jetman

As to the shifting of the HM transmission, do yourself a favor and pick-up a Supplement Hydra-Matic Trans. Service Manual.   It very well is a simple adjustment of the rod coming from the transmission to the throttle linkage bell-crank at the rear of the engine, driver side.  A very slight lengthening of of that rod  will make a tremendous difference in the way the transmission shifts.

Nevada Hudson

Don't feel bad about the AM radio. Bought a Reddi Rad and it plugs into the antenna jack of a stock radio, turn to 1000, and with my I-Pod plugged into it with recorded '50 music, can listen to it through the stock factory speakers. Unplug the I-Pod and listen to broadcast AM stations. This way I can leave the stock tube radio alone. Steve Engel turned me on to this.
My '54 Jetliner came from the factory with rubber floor mats

apeman

Here's one more pic, more to come. In California we can get 'Year of Manufacture' plates, if you have a set (I had a set). I did buy a Red-rad, just need to hook it up. I don't have an ipod, so need to get something to play mp3's. 
  Jerry, I did buy the Hydramatic service manual. It's wayyy over my head. Even the trouble shooting section doesn't have 'shifts through gears too quickly' as a choice. I did think about adjusting the rod, trial and error. I'll do it soon, and see what happens. That ought to eat up a day !
   I drove about 20 miles in town today. If I idle with shifter in Lo, it loads the engine down to a near stall. Seems happiest with indicator at 3 . Then I can manually click it into 4, to get 4th gear. If I drive normally in 4 (all gears), it shifts very quickly though the gears including 4th, but I'm only going 20mph, so no power.
   Lots of people oooing and ahhing today. You all know the Hudson drill ! Good times !
-Apeman
   

Nevada Hudson

You can plug a portable Walkman CD player with a AM/FM into it also if you do not have a ipod.

53jetman

Apeman:  When you start adjusting the linkage, take in small steps, as a very slight lengthening or shortening will sometimes make quite a difference.

apeman

Hi Nevada;  I hooked up the Redirad, and it works ! Brother gave me a small mp3 player.
Jerry, should I go one-thread at a time, 1/16th of an inch (linkage rod), that small ? I appreciate any advice, as I have no experience with the Hydramatic. Also, with the described symptoms, should I lengthen or shorten the rod ?

-A

53jetman

I guess I'd go a couple of threads at a time at first, but it will not take much to change the shift points - but lengthen the rod.  Will add you to the registry -  Need a name and address to complete registration.

apeman

I took at look at the rod (TV rod) which goes from the accelerator linkage to the left side of the transmission body (on to a short pawl arm) . The previous owner had the rod setso that the end of the rod was flush with the clevis. I disconnected the rod, and felt the play in the pawl arm. It seemed to have a lot of play before it starts to compress the spring inside the transmission. I shortened the rod to take up the play, so it sits just before the pawl arm engages the spring. I'd say I shortened the rod about 1/2 inch.
   1st test drive:  AMAZING improvement. All of my Transmission quirks went away! It no longer lurches when downshifting into 1st gear. It shifts smoother. If I'm in 4th gear, and press the accelerator pedal to the floor, it downshifts to 3rd smoothly (kickdown, or passing gear they call it). Idles smoothly in Neutral, shifts smooth into reverse. 
I'm crimping the cotter pin and calling it a day !