engine specs
In relation to a 1937 8 cylinder splashie, I am looking for the following specs
Torque settings for say, big ends, main caps and anything else important
Bearing tolerances for white metal mains and big ends, ie clearances
thanks
Phil Macwhirter
Australia
Comments
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Go to http://www.hetclub.org/
Sign in
Scroll to lower right of website
Find Alex Burr's online literature
Look for 30-39
Manuals 30-39
Mechanical procedure manual 34-37
download PDF
More than you need to know there
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Thx Uncle Josh
I actually have that manual and note that the clearances are listed as 1 thou - seems a bit tight and wonder what others use.
DG's for other brands of engine mention 1 to 15 thou which sounded like a wide range
can cold thick oil find it's way into a 1 thou gap ?
Nothing about torque in the manual though
Thx
phil0 -
You can find anything here http://hudsonterraplane.com/tech/tech_index.htm
I am rebuliding one!0 -
Thanks Molin
I didn't see anything more comprehensive on my required subject at that website
I actually want to know what current engine builders are doing with bearings and torquing up
Phil0 -
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Phil,
If you can get hold of a Railton workshop manual, they (the English Club) re-wrote the Hudson Manual to include all the torque settings and more detailed information. The English are rather particular about having everything written down so good old engineering knowledge isn't needed. The Railton Club have it available online if you are a member I'm told.
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1/2 to 1 and 1/2 thousandths. on splasher engines. Any looser will greatly shorten the service life.0
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I use aluminum foil to check the bearings. Light duty is .0007 and heavy duty is .0014. If the bearing is tight with a .0014 strip and loose without it, you're there. A shim on one side of the cap with give you 1/2 the shim thickness adjustment. Do one bearing at a time.
Use 15W40 oil in the splasher for summer driving, and make sure the upper pan is full. You can either fill it and attach the pans from underneath, or get the pans on and put your oil in the valve gallery before the valve covers go on. That will fill your oil troughs, and run over into the sump.
the shop service manual for 48-52 has a complete torque chart in the back.
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Just buy plastiguage to see the right clearence0
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Don't forget when using plastiguage you are not going to match the clearance in the book. Plastiguage gives you total clearance, the book is a radial clearance, so half your plastiguage reading for comparing your actual clearance to the spec. And, don't forget if your oil is too cold you will need to match your oil weight with the weight specified in the manual as well.0
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If you use plastigage, make sure it's real fresh. The older it gets, the harder it gets and will push it's way into the soft babbitt and give you a false reading.0
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Interesting........As an FYI, my '42-'47 MPM gives a spec for radial main bearing clearance as .0005" to .0015 (pg 82) whereas the text regarding crankshaft main bearings (pg 94) says to maintain a diametral clearance of .0005"-.0011", emphasizing the importance of staying within that spec. Interesting that the book contradicts itself.....but not too surprising.
Frank
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So.... we have wide range of clearances for the bearings
I take from all of this and some other comments / messages that most seem to set at 1.5 to 2.5 thou total clearance The range though - up to 15 thou seems extraordinary.
I think we'll go for 1 thou per side, say 2 thou overall
Now about to start full engine rebuild on an engine which was fully rebuilt less than one thousand miles ago. Insufficient ring and piston clearance, badly honed bores, scuffed! pistons, aluminium through the white metal bearings, the list goes on
At least I have "settled" with the person who did the faulty work so I will only be a few thousand dollars out of pocket.
Thanks for all of the replies.
Phil0
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