Disc brake conversion.

goan

I'm guessing this topic has probably been done to death but came across a kit from this https://www.jimenezbroscustoms.net/product-page/1948-57-hudson-complete-front-disc-brake-wheel-kit
Has anyone used this kit or this company? If so do you know if this will fit 46 pickup?
Any help will be most appreciated. Thanks

50C8DAN

Looks to be the same kit as ABS Brake conversions ($675) but a bit cheaper at $649, and with Jimenz Bros 15% off Labor day discount it knocks off about $100.  Pretty good deal. The ABS kit is known to be a good setup, although I don't have one myself.

Ol racer

FYI
Ive installed Disc Brakes and large Hornet Brakes on my '37,  '47, and 51 Hudson's. I discovered the Spindle Backing Plate holes are Identical from '37 to '51 (and maybe later too). However the Spindle on the earlier Hudson is slightly longer requiring an 1/8" Spacer. I installed an additional 'Tang' Washer behind the Castle Nut. I also bought a Grade 8 Washer at Lowes for another Disc assembly. However, on a '47, you must utilize one Bearing from a '49 - '54 Hudson. (Forget if inner or outter bearing) because the OD or ID is different than a '47. All that said, a Disc Kit for a '49 - '54 should fit with those two changes.

JasonNC

Is just me, but that kit appears to be slightly different from the kit that Rick and Matt used to sell.  Has anyone purchased this particular kit?

50C8DAN

I contacted Matt last spring about his kit and he said he quit making them due to lack of sales, but recommended the ABS as an alternative.  So yes probably not the same but not a lot of other options out there.

50C8DAN

Word of warning on the JImenz deal.  Yes it is cheaper with their coupon, but the shipping at $205 is a killer!  My guess is that they are sourcing this unit from ABS.  Here is the link for the ABS kit:  http://abspowerbrake.com/maincatalog_frameset032.html

pseftoncomcastnet

This is the wheel kit only, right? what do you do for the MC and booster?

Peter S.

50C8DAN

Most use the stock MC under the floor and no booster.  You will need to use a proportioning valve and check valves if you keep the stock setup, http://www.hotrod.com/articles/brake-system-fabrication-hot-rod-basics/.  You can put a dual master cylinder on an under the floor setup.  I am not sure, but I believe you can use a jeep dual mc. 

If you are planning to put a booster on the firewall for power brakes that is a whole lot a work and will require a new pedal setup

RichardD

I used a booster on stock MC and mounted under floor and the brakes are more than awesome to say the least {'53 Hornet}; you NEED shoulder belts to go with power. Seriously~
 Just depends on what you want.
But mine are R. Pridemore's disk kit (NLA).
Also worked just fine with stock MC w/o PBR-VH40.

Ol racer

FYI
Retaining the under floor Master Cyl with Disc usually requires an 'inline' Proportioning valve available on E Bay for around $10. There is a Blue & Red valve, 2 lb & 10lb.

I installed a small 2002 Chevy Malibu Power Dual Master Cyl & Pedal Assy on my Stepdown which required drilling 4 holes and hole sawing a center hole for pushrod.

(Incidently, a GM firewall Power Master Assy on another Hudson with only large Hornet Brake Lining & drums requires Shoulder Belts to prevent hitting the steering wheel like RichadfD mentioned).....

RichardD

My power brake unit, located underfloor, supplements the front disks for extra stopping power (operating on all 4 wheels !) Only connections are brake line from MC, brake line from booster to main brake line distribution fitting and vacuum hose to intake manifold.  Does not use actuator rod.  Click ( i ) on 1st photo to get comments.
This is for general info only, not as recommendation per se.

https://goo.gl/photos/QEtE7t64Ebs53teC8

 

50C8DAN

The other option that has been used with the stock under the floor MC is a Bendix hydrovac unit like that used by Studebaker.  Note it can only be used on a single MC.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC2.A0.H0.Xhydrovac.TRS0&_nkw=hydrovac&_sacat=0

iceblade10

I'm actually considering a front disc brake conversion, but don't know how hard it would be to install myself.  Is there a kit which is considered head and shoulders better than the others?  I would prefer one that has rotors/pads which are easy to find replacements for as time goes on.  I do not have power brakes, I have manual - would it be OK to use the stock MC?  Would I also need a proportioning valve?

I forgot to downshift while driving down a long steep hill this summer.  While I did remember to pump the brakes rather than ride them, they were very hot by the time I got to the bottom, and I had to MASH the pedal down with both feet just to STAY stopped at the red light.  Thankfully I was basically at my destination by this point.  This has me wanting disc brakes, amongst other reasons...

JasonNC

iceblade10 said:

I forgot to downshift while driving down a long steep hill this summer.  While I did remember to pump the brakes rather than ride them, they were very hot by the time I got to the bottom, and I had to MASH the pedal down with both feet just to STAY stopped at the red light.  Thankfully I was basically at my destination by this point.  This has me wanting disc brakes, amongst other reasons...

Losing my brakes coming down a mountain in NC is the reason I put disc brakes on my 48 Commodore.  I bought a kit from Matt Faust and it wasn't that difficult to install, but I enlisted the assistance of my mechanic because I wanted to be sure it was done right.  I was disappointed to see that Matt had given up the business as I want to put disc brakes on my 49 Super Six for the same reason....

50C8DAN

The only kit now available is the ABS one I noted above and this is the one Matt pointed me to.   I guess the Jimenz Bros deal is an alternative but it looks to be identical to the ABS kit.  It is not that difficult to install these, it is basically, remove the drums and bolt on the brackets, install rotors and calipers, then bleed the brakes.  However as noted you will need to put in the residual pressure valves and a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from locking up.  This will require some brake line, tubing cutter and flaring tool.  This is covered in many of the articles on line, for drum to disk conversions with under the floor MC.  I put a link to the Hotrod article, but there are others that you can find about such conversions.

RichardD

I am not using a proportioning valve on the '53. The rear brakes do not lock up. The stopping power of the disks are much more than the shoes. I have actually wondered about using the PV on the front system to balance the braking: LOL; but haven't measured skid marks yet to conclude theory.
Haven't seen that ever done.

dlamb67

I see Ol Racer installed the disc on a 37, anyone ever try one on a 36 ? The 36 brakes leave much to be desired.

JasonNC

I have the proportioning valves, both the red and blue ones on my setup, per Matt's instructions and my mechanics recommendations.  I'm not sure if the front brakes work better than the rear, I'm just not afraid of driving in the mountains anymore.  

RichardD

http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/Wilwood-Residual-Brake-Pressure-Valves/744514/10002/-1
Those are residual valves and not proportioning valves--different animals !
I don't use a red one on the front since I have a remote fluid resv. mounted on the
firewall that applies pressure and keeps the disk calipers from draining back to the MC.
I do use the 10# rear one.

JasonNC

Ok.  I have residual valves in my car.  Sheesh....

DavidC

I have the ABS kit on my 53 Hornet.  I also got their modern split MC and remote reservoir.  Both front and rear MC compartments are pressurized by a remote electric booster, also from ABS.  I have strong brakes but tendency to lock rears, despite residual valves and adjustable proportioning valve for rear.  I believe the proportioning valve is either faulty or not strong enough, due to the 2000 psi generated by the electric pump.  Will be obtaining stronger adjustable proportioning valve (100-3000 psi)  soon which will hopefully allow me to cut down on rear bias.  There is no sense of fade with long drives.  The electric pump is a bit noisy so I will be insulating it from frame, and if still noisy, relocating to the rear of the car frame.  With my setup, and use of SS lines, there was a significant amount of tube bending and flaring-not an easy install.  The MC mounting bracket cam from Matt.  

joe53HH

David,  Do you have a part number of the MC? I have the MC bracket from Matt and would like to install the dual MC on my 53.
Thanks

RichardD

If you use a remote fluid reservoir with a low-level blinking red light on dash, your losing fluid without knowing it is rather unusual. Plus, you have almost double the quantity of fluid. Mine shown here with wires going to light on dash. 
Another thing, stepdowns have the 'automatic' emergency brake as last resort in low fluid situations.
Point: Why go to the trouble of a dual  MC?
{coiled 'wire' is for aftermarket capillary temperature sensor.}

Kdancy

Richard, what a good idea. This would be even better if it could be done to the single chamber mc under the floor. 

iceblade10

Sorry for my silly question, but what's the point of a single vs. double chamber MC?  Is a double chamber MC for power brakes?  I have manual brakes, is it safe to assume I have a single chamber?

Richard, that looks like a place where you'd add some "blinker fluid."  LOL ;-)

RichardD

Kerry, the remote is connected to the stock MC. And easy to add fluid, plus the low level alarm, and double the amount of fluid. Could put on the upper inner fender and paint black(use DOT 5) to be more stealthy.

50C8DAN

Stephen. you can have a dual or single MC with manual or power brakes.  The advantage is if you lose either the front or the back brakes due to a leak or other you still have fluid in the other, hopefully.  It is a safety feature.  I believe dual MC came into being around 1964, and became standard either by industry or possibly govt. regs.

https://itstillruns.com/dual-master-cylinders-work-7588241.html

faustmb

Hey guys,  sorry I don't get on here too much lately.   I did quit making the kits as the cost was climbing greatly with each batch,  and the demand was dropping off. The last 10 sets I made sat in my shop for over a year before selling the last one.  I'll be glad to help with information, and I can still make the caliper plates and MC brackets for anyone wanting those.  The hubs are the killer cost wise,  so you'd have to modify the original hubs to accept studs and a rotor. 

In 48 the spindles got larger, so the inner bearing did as well.  48-54 brakes will fit on '37-'47 cars if you use the earlier inner bearing and seal.  The traditional upgrade was Hornet or Commodore front brakes onto the earlier cars.  The kits I sold are installed on cars as old as '36 that I know of, but '37-54 are pretty easy to install.   Rim diameter and type effects wheels spacers so that is something to watch for.   I don't know if the ABS kit works with the wire wheels,  but the small hub makes clearance a challenge. 

The ABS kits are supposed to be pretty good (I haven't used one but know a handful of people that have).   I'll be glad to help if I can ,  life has been very busy lately and I've mostly been messing with early 30s Hudson and Essex cars. The best way to reach me is email HETOrphanAutoMill@gmail - drop the HET

Thanks,
Matt 

bobdriveshudson2

Thanks Matt, hope to see you and yours at PF.