stainless trim installation

JFromm
JFromm Senior Contributor
in HUDSON
Am going to install the trim piece on my 54 hornet coupe that goes from behind the door to half way below the back window. Do I start at the door or at the window? Also, do I clip on the bottom of the retainer or start at the top? The retainers are new. Any tips to make it easier would be appreciated.

Thanks. 

Comments

  • 2manyprojects
    2manyprojects Expert Adviser
    masking tape , no cell phone, patience, good nite sleep nite before and luck. thats all i know john. send russell a text he knows. good luck i am sure it will be fine.
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    edited April 2018
    2manyprojects said:
    masking tape , no cell phone, patience, good nite sleep nite before and luck. thats all i know john. send russell a text he knows. good luck i am sure it will be fine.
    Is the "Russell" referred to in the above quote meant to be me?  If so, I did get to be pretty good at installing this trim (although not specifically a '54), but installing the stainless on new retaining strips in general.  
  • 2manyprojects
    2manyprojects Expert Adviser
    russell maas but i am sure you could give good advice also

  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    Well, Mr. Maas has certainly put together more Hudsons than I have.  He would be the one to contact.  
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member

    Since John asked me, the following is the process I use for installing SS trim on the outside of the car:

    The following works best when using new retainers that are smaller in size to the originals, which ran the length of the stainless.  2” to 4” retainer length seems to work best.

    1.        Use new retainers!  Preferably galvanized ones (so they don’t rust).  Original ones are raw steel, probably in bad, corroded shape and will perpetually run rust and corrosion down the side of the car from the time you put them on until they finally erode completely away. 

    2.       Measure the width of your retainer and the width of your stainless trim (inside of the ‘C’-curve that goes up against the retainer).  Ideally, you want the stainless to be .005” to .007” LESS than the width of the retainer.  Retainers (or stainless) can be put into a bench vise with soft jaws and clamped down to the appropriate size.  Don’t worry if you don’t have calipers, just make the difference about 1/32” or less and you will be good.  If the difference between the two is too loose, the stainless can slide back and forth and scratch the paint, interfere with a door, etc (or worse, it will plain fall off).  If it’s too tight, you won’t be able to get it attached without crushing the curl on the stainless.

    3.       Install 1 (one) flat stainless washer between the body and the retainer, when installing retainer to the car (Also, use a stainess steel screw to hold the retainer).  This will keep the retainer away from the body of the car enough that water, dirt, crud will not gather there and do damage to the body, like . . .  forever.

    4.       I like “cleaning up” any sharp edges or burrs on the back of the stainless.  Now is the time to double check them before you install them.  Tape the edges of where the stainless will reside on the body with something like blue painter’s tape.  Take a Q-tip and coat the bottom ‘C’ of the stainless trim with Vaseline or similar product.  This will help it climb over the edge of the retainer and snap onto it.  Start from the doors and work your way out. Use two people (installer and holder).  Align the stainless carefully, hook the top of the stainless onto the retainer and as you push it downward in the middle of the stainless (like you are trying to flatten it out), use the heel of your hand (the fleshy part) quickly and sharply towards the bottom of the stainless to get it to “snap” over the bottom curl.  Move down to the next section of retainer and repeat the process until you get to the end of the piece. 

    Trust me on using the heel of your hand as your hammering tool.  I have tried using other items and they cause more damage than it’s worth.  Yes, your hand will probably be bruised by the end of the job (especially if it’s a ’51-’53)-but not so bad if you get your dimensions right (.005-.007”) between the retainer and the stainless.  But the pain will remind you that you did a job worth doing well and that you don’t have damaged stainless or damaged paint.  Take your time.  Don’t do it when you are in a hurry or in the wrong frame of mind. As usual it's the prep that takes the time, not the actual installation of the trim.  

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