Center point steering

JasonNC
JasonNC Expert Adviser
in HUDSON
  1. How hard is it to replace the center point steering in a 49 Stepdown?

Comments

  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    Removing the centre point steering assembly from the vehicle and replacing it is straightforward but.... 

    The manual covers the process but glosses over the details of the tricky parts of what to do when you have the assembly in your hands, which are 1) removing the old pivot pin and then 2) replacing and securing the new pin.

    1) The pivot pin is held by a cross drilled (no 5) taper pin which has been driven in tight. It may press out but will most probably need to be drilled out, this involves setting up in a drill press or a mill so you can accurately drill the taper pin without drilling or damaging the taper pin holes in the steering arms. Setting up accurately in the drill press is the key, its the hard part, if you can get that right the rest of the process is dead simple.

    2) Once the new centre pin has been pressed in the right distance (refer to manual) the assembly needs to go back into the drill press to cross drill the new pivot pin through the original holes in the steering arms. The drill size is important. After drilling the hole needs to be reamed with a no 5 taper reamer and then the new taper retaining pin gets driven in.
  • Doctorvaux
    Doctorvaux Member
    edited May 2018
    I have just finished this job. I bought the kit with the new pin and solid bush (as opposed to needle roller bearings) from 21st Century Hudson a couple of years ago, but have only just got around to doing the job.
    I found it impossible to hammer or press out the old taper pin. So I very carefully drilled out the taper pin from each side with a small drill, and made sure the holes met in the middle. I had the help of a friend to ensure the drill was properly lined up. Then I opened out the hole, one drill size at a time until the taper pin was significantly weakened, carefully checking that I had not drilled into the steering component. Then using a hydraulic press, I pressed out the main 1 inch diameter pin, shearing off the weakened taper pin in the process. I wasn't too happy about doing this, but it seemed the only way and it worked. The taper pin is quite soft.
    After cleaning everything up, removing burrs etc, I pressed in the new bush and pressed in the new 1 inch diameter pin, being careful to line up thet grease hole in thet bush and careful  observe the recommended depth for the pin, with careful measurement. Again the hydraulic press was used.
    At this point it was necessary to drill the new hole for the new taper pin. However I simply did not have the right clamps or drilling machine, or the right taper reamer. Therefore I took it to a trusted local engineering guy, who charged me an hour's labour to drill, taper ream and fit the pin.

    Alternatively, Charlie Harris is advertising reconditioned exchange units in the WTN. He had some for sale at the International meeting in San Diego last year.

    Hope this helps.



  • Courtesy Man
    Courtesy Man Expert Adviser
    If the pin is good just put in a bushing that I make - $40 + shipping. Gert Kristiansen
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    Ive used Gert's bushing on several stepdowns, much easier and works great. Make sure the pin is in good shape as Gert says.
  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    Needle rollers are not well suited for a situation such as the step-down centre steering pivot, it was not one of Hudson's better ideas. A bronze bush is a much better solution.
  • drivergo2
    drivergo2 Expert Adviser
    How do know when you should replace the pin and the rest of the hard ware ? I am a novice at this and by looking I am going to need a lot of new front parts new bumps stops bushings king pins it all looks like it needs replacing getting it running from its 50 year nap is the first thing it a 52 Hornet . Thanks John
  • Jay_G
    Jay_G Expert Adviser

    I would check for play in the center point unit.  My 53 had no play and turned freely so I did not replace it when I did my front end.  I cleaned, rebuilt or replaced just about everything else.  Oh, my box was good also so I did not feel the need to have to replace it all.

    Jay

  • Doctorvaux
    Doctorvaux Member
    edited June 2018
    Get someone to help, have them sit in the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Get under the car and it watch the pivot arm where it joins the tie rods. You can see if there is up and down movement, in addition to side to side movement, indicating wear. This was very noticeable in my car and on others I have seen. Hold the pivot arm to feel for any movement as well.
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor

    FWIW, the pin itself is made from 'oil hardened drill rod', a very hard material.

    In most cases the pin will be fine and the bearings will be shot. Although I'm sure the pin can wear out in some extreme cases.

  • drivergo2
    drivergo2 Expert Adviser
    Is that with th e car on solid ground or jacked up a little bit to take the pressure of  the front end ?
  • hudsonguy
    hudsonguy Senior Contributor

    Jacked up and on stands for access and safety is fine. Doesn't need to  be on the ground. Three bolts and the center yoke will drop down and come right off. Not really under pressure.


  • nevadavic
    nevadavic Member

    I have a 1953 Hudson Hornet Coupe with loose steering. I would like to purchase the bushing that Gert Kristiansen makes just to try and eliminate some of the slop in the steering.

    Hi Gert, can you send me your information so that I can purchase one from you?

    Nevada Vic

  • Courtesy Man
    Courtesy Man Expert Adviser

    Thank you for the comments on the center point bushing I machine. Reach me at :HETgtkristi0@gmail.com Remove the HET Gert

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