The dreaded OIL thread...

Beforemytime

It's a cardinal sin on most boards because it's the most beat to death topic in the known universe but here goes:

I've used Synthetic oil in most everything I've had for 29 years so naturally when I changed the oil in my 212 ('38 Terraplane) it got the same synthetic oil as my primary driver. So far so good, no additional leaks. (Synthetics have a reputation for finding their way past seals that didn't formerly leak.) I believe the positive qualities of modern synthetics outweigh the additional risk for leaks.

Hit me with your best shot, or feel free to agree.
Discuss. Anybody else use synthetics in their vintage Hudson?

David

Val

I have never used a synthetic oil in any thing. Nothing against them really just don't use them. I use Shell 15W40 in my 212 in my 39. I was told that the old motors required zinc and the shell oil has it. Not sure of how true it is but that my 2 cents worth.  

Geoff

The only seal in a 212 engine, or any other splasher engine  is the timing case.  I don't know about propensity for synthetic oil to leak through gaskets.  The proof of the pudding is in the eating.    The only thing I have heard is that synthetic oil does not fling around like mineral oil, which could affect its ability to  get into the main  and cam feed gutters, but it is hypothetical.  Good on you for trying.

Hudson_in_Seattle

i don't use synthetics because of potential leaks - i have had this problem - but my experience is mostly with old air-cooled porsche's and an old mercedes (i run 20w/50 valvoline vr1 racing oil with extra zinc on those cars) - i think that synthetics are much better at high oil temps (240 degrees), and as very light oil, used in very modern cars (like 0 or 5 weight)

- i wouldn't use synthetics in my "modern" 1993 fj80 landcruiser, which is my daily driver, because of leaks - 240k miles on that one though!

- i very recently found a '53 hornet sedan and i'm new to hudsons - it looks like 10w/30 is the recommended weight - this is what i will use - https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10W-30-VR1-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FMK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530930109&sr=8-1&keywords=valvoline+vr+10w-30 - no affiliation - hope this helps!

Ol racer

I feel any good Name Brand Non Synth 30wt Oil is sufficient unless reside in cold climate then use 10 - 30 Non Synth.... (Zinc only needed for rebuilt motor during break-in period).

Browniepetersen

I use Rotella, non synthetic in my collector car.  I think all will admit on this thread that oil today is much better than oil in the 20, 30 or 50's so it is not much of a discussion.  Pick your own...

RichardD

Be aware of the low cost of FULL SYNTHETIC 5w30 oil at Wal-Mart. Their brand>>> $17.47 for five (5) quarts online and same price in store.  Beat that anywhere else???
Have heard it is made by Castrol.
Edit: also 10W30

Val

Ok, knowing this a been beaten over and over and over rest assured I have no question. But I did and called Shell Oil USA and spoke to a "so called" lube specialist. I have been using the 15W40 Rotella T4 in my car. I told the person this but read on the net that Shell had reintroduced the X 100 motor oils to satisfy the need for zinc in the vintage and Muscle car community. So I thought I would call and ask. The guy didn't know about that as I had the Tech specialist for lube and not sales and marketing. Anyways he assured me that the rotella T4 would indeed satisfy the zinc required for prewar cars engine. And I recall the good Dr Doug suggesting to use Lucas Oil Stabilizer in my oil also. So I do that. I the advice of both parties and am confident that I will have many miles of happy motoring. Just my 2 cents on a dead subject       

railknight

Using PennGrade 15w-40 partial synthetic motor oil as it has high zinc levels and I'm still breaking in the rebuilt 262 on my super wasp.