'53 Hornet Hydramatic Stalls when Cold - ???

Hudson_in_Seattle

hey guys - i know the practical answer is to let it warm up! 

when i start my '53 hornet with hydramatic when its cold, i usually let it warm for 5-10 minutes, until the water temp goes up a few marks

when i try to drive forwards when not fully warm, it stalls from a standstill in gear - this doesn't happen in reverse though

this made for a stressful sunday a.m. drive, at the 1st intersection, after i left the house - not cool!

i do not think there is an issue with the engine tune - i think that the load needed to get moving is enough to stall the engine when cold - i have not experienced this in other collector cars (including automatics)

i would hate to have the hornet stall after a long ferry run here on the puget sound! that would be worse!

any advice would be most appreciated!

thanks

Glowplug

Check carb choke settings

Hudson_in_Seattle

thanks - in adjustment, recently adjusted

KustomKreeps

Try giving it a few revs before putting into gear. If this works then the choke may be sticking.

If you are confident of the choke then try either advancing timing a bit or adjust the air/fuel mix on carb a tad.

Could also take the air cleaner/s off. have some one jump in drivers seat while you look down the carb/s. see if choke is engaged or not. if so get them to give it a few revs - any difference. Get them to put it in gear(foot on brake). If it dies then hold the choke open and get them to put it in gear again. If it goes then readjust choke. if dies then mark the current settings on fuel /air screw and adjust t a bit.

What weight oils are you running and is this happening in summer and winter?

oil in the trans/stall convert fine?

super651

hUDSON-SEATTLE, is the transmission in low speed or is it in 2nd.  If it is in 2nd it will lug the engine speed down but not in Reverse   Rudy B.

Glowplug

...another thought, cranking down on the nut that fastens the aircleaner to the carb throat distorts the carb which may cause choke plates to not set or to stick closed....

Hudson_in_Seattle

thanks for all of this - the key variable here is there no problem when warm, only when cold -

when cold, no problems starting, goes to high idle, and holds correct idle quickly, even when not fully warm

- tranny is in D4, but i also put in low, with no difference - (i figured the reverse gear is lower than D1)

- i also tried to hold revs, like i would in a manual tranny auto, but that didn't work either

thanks again

iceblade10

My car had similar issues, until I chased down and finally fixed a massive vacuum leak I had on the manifold gasket.

Park_W

Try it with the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn CCW.

29sptphaeton

With it running put your hand over the top of the carburetor and see if it stays running. I just found one with a broken intake manifold, when it got warmed up it ran better because the manifold would expand and partially close the break.  A blown out manifold gasket will cause the same problem.  You could also use a vacuum gauge to check for this.

Hudson_in_Seattle

thanks - i think there probably is a vacuum leak that's masked when hot - i also found that one of four balance tube bolts is stripped - thanks again

iceblade10

I highly recommend Remflex gaskets. Really improved my situation.

Hudson_in_Seattle

believe it or not, this problem completely went away after adjusting the valves to "walt's specs"!

pistonfarmer

If it stopped after adjusting the valves then you probably did have a valve partially open causing your vacuum leak. Makes sense... good catch!