Radiator - 1937 Hudson

maruefer

so in reading the manuals, removal of radiator does not seem to be a topic of wisdom from Hudson technical writers or for that matter, other sources I have read. 
 Thinking grill comes off via bolts/screws located some where. Any quick quote from anyone? 1937 Hudson Eight. Also, anyone sell direct replacements perhaps or need to rebuild? 
 Update on the car, today since getting car two months ago, installed battery and the engine cranked and cylinders had pressure. All had 70 plus (spec is around 108 I think) and carb was not wide open so life in the motor, I’m thinking yes. 

Ol racer

fyi
Even though a little low reading as long as they were within 10# of others you should be fine. Actually, after running awhile pressure may come up slightly.

Regarding Radiator, there are two 3/8" bolts on the very bottom of the lower tank in addition to the upper panel that you can see above the radiator. Ive taken mine out without removing the grille, however ive got a Hornet Mtr in my '37 with an after market radiator that I fabricated couple brackets to use. I have a good recored 3 core but its not large enough for your 8cyl which needs a 4 core .

Radiator Shops are a dying business because of the new plastic & aluminum throw away radiators but there are a few Shops remaining that can ReCore that old honey comb style, but its not cheap.... Additionally, there are a few members on this Forum that have had custom radiators built, but at the moment I don't know who.....

Browniepetersen

I had the radiator for my Hudson rebuilt by Wildrick. Did a really great job. H is in the WTN and his site is www.wrphet.com. There are a number of builders out there that can do them with aftermarket materials, but as reported above, it costs a bit. I, however, think recore is the only way to go. Not a fan of the "shortcut" products that are out there.

BigSky

I stabbed my radiator as I was loosening stuck hoses, brilliant!  She bleed awful so I pulled the grill shell with the radiator then separated them once out.  I felt it was easier at the time.  The shop I took it to boiled it out & patched her up good.  I believe it was $100 to $150.  Only thing I wish I had done differently was to sand smooth & repaint the shell, not fins, myself with a decent paint.  




Once drained I did find a fair amount of crap in it so I was glad I boiled her out.  Don’t forget to use a thermostat & get new hoses while your at it.  

Jon B

Maruefer, just to clarify removal of the radiator at the bottom:

As I recall, the two bolts at the bottom are carriage bolts: a round head with no slot, but the square shoulder beneath the head fits into a square hole in the mounting bracket that's part of the radiator. The bolts then pass through rubber and/or steel shims (quantity as required to elevate the radiator correctly) and then through the cross-member of the car's frame. They are secured with nuts and you may have to look carefully to find these nuts nestling under the cross-member. Remove the nuts and you should be able to lift the radiator out.

Of course you must first remove the hoses and the top mounting bolts and remove the radiator shell and grille. I'm not sure you could merely tilt the shell forward enough to clear the radiator. Incidentally, the shell has a very large rubber welt that fills the gap on both sides between the fender and the grille shell; K-Gap used to sell this so my guess is that Doug Wildrick will have it for sale.