Do it yourself brake riveting
Comments
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I am all for as much DIY on my cars as I can do. Having said that, my opinion on refurbishing drum brakes is that it is better left to a GOOD shop that knows drum brakes. These days, that means that one will be looking for a shop that does tractor/trailer drum brakes as a regular part of their business. I had a shop like this resurface the drums and reline the shoes for my '48 Super 6. The most important part of the process was the 3rd and final step after the shoes were relined and the drums were resurfaced: Grinding (also referred to as re-arcing) the relined shoes to the the new inner diameter of the drums, so that the full length of the shoe will contact the drum inner surface.
Certainly Russ you have the ability to do the job and do it well. My reasons for sending the work out also have a lot to do with avoiding grinding brake lining because of the obvious health hazards. In any case, don't omit the step of matching the diameter of the shoes to the drums. In almost every situation where someone is complaining about how lousy the drum brakes are that they've just rebuilt on their vintage car, this third step has been omitted, leaving only about 1/2 of surface of the shoe actually contacting the drum under braking.0 -
Have used correct size STAINLESS STEEL Pop Rivits with the S S washer. Stronger; but not as soft as brass, so don't let linings wear out and score drums.
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I use 4-4 rivets. Most new linings have front and rear the same length. Old school was that the short piece goes on the front shoe and the long piece goes on the rear shoe.0
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…...or as in my car, 2 short shoes on one side - 2 long shoes on the other! (ha, ha!)
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Bendix brakes have short lining on leading shoe. Wagner Lockheed (Jet) have the short lining on the rear.0
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This tool works great. Did my shoes a few years ago with it. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/RapcoBrake.php
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