How do you remove the valves?

Jon B

Regarding the guides, I wonder what the general consensus is about using silicon bronze valve guides?  I don't know if they're available for Hudsons anymore, but at some point maybe 20-30 years ago I asked my friend and mechanic to use them when he was overhauling my 212.  At the time I was aware that sticking valves are a common problem in 212's that sit unused for long periods of time, so I had become persuaded that the silicon bronze guides might be a solution to that problem.  I can't say that they are, yet I really haven't had any valve problems in the intervening years since the above-mentioned guides were installed.

squirrel

Always having fresh gas in the tank is probably a better solution to sticking valves, eh? It seems that old gas is closely correlated with valves sticking in cars that sit around a lot.

BigSky

Thankfully the guides came out like I knew what I was doing!  A couple were more difficult but with the home made tool described previously it worked beautifully.   See the pictures below of what I put together.  1st pic has tool with pulled guide to show how it is used, 2nd pic is from the top of the block, 3rd from below.  




I also pulled out one of the lifters/tappets & it looked good with no wear issues, yet it’s only one.  I’ll need to pull the rest out to check them & clean them.  I’ve been told it’s important to put them back together exactly as they were before including which direction the center piece is oriented, which may be an interesting challenge as I clean them.  Perhaps I can put a punch mark somewhere safely?   Finally I’ve been told it’s also not a good idea to polish any of the surfaces since I’m using the same cam without any changes.  For re-assembly I’ll use some assembly lube. 

Geoff

Certainly looks good.  When you re-install the lifters and clamp plates, snug the clamp bolts down, and give each retainer a good sharp hit at 90 deg to the engine with a large punch and hammer to align the  lifters with the cams. then tighten clamp bolts securely. 

BigSky

When you say “align the lifters with the cam”, I think I follow...   With the cut out on the lifter body edge to allow the plate to clamp down on, I imagined the punch tap you recommended, was to make sure the lifters were back in place in relationships to the clamping plate.  By doing this are you also aligning the lifter bottom back up parallel to the cam, as they hopefully were before?   I assume it’s best to tap on the center of the plate where the bolt goes through. 

To be able to put lifters back the way they came out, I pulled a lifter & before I disassembled it for cleaning, I put a while line of paint on the same side of the exterior & internal parts.  I used a Sharpie oil based paint pen which worked great, it didn’t come off even when cleaning them with mineral spirits.  After cleaning I used some Permatex assembly lube in reassembly.

Glowplug

Big Sky- you have a grand opportunity to collect your rebuild journey incorporating the knowledge and assistance obtained here into a “How I did it” document and share it with all on this site and the HET Club site!?

Val

That is a  GREAT idea. It would help many in the future  

terraplane8

I agree, your close-up photos are very good too.

BigSky

Thank you all, that is very kind of you!   It is something I really should do as I have learned a great deal along this journey which is far from over.  

I’m done tonight as it’s almost midnight but here are a couple of pictures, a before & after cleaning of tappet / lifters.   Fortunately I only had one tappet guide which was difficult to remove, she was being kind to me tonight!   I did notice the tappet guides seemed to have a cross hatch pattern on the inside, I imagine to hold oil & prevent wear, like on a cylinder wall.

BigSky

You can kinda see the cross-hatch here.