1937 Hudson Brake System Restoration

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Comments

  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Ivan, I really like that idea!   Can you share a picture & if possible of what fitting(s) you used?   Doing that would definitely be better than forcing crud through the entire bore & possibility damaging it.  

    I decided to go ahead & take the backing plate off & blast it clean.  I just couldn’t bare leaving it rusty or just painting over the rust.  Speaking of painting over rust, good lord the POR15 is brutal to try to sandblast off!  I just about burnt up my compressor when I did the oil pan a while ago, one millimeter at a time.  The compressor is still running but she’s struggling along, thus I’m taking many recovery brakes so I don’t kill her too soon.  Once the coupe is on the road, she can die a spectacular death!

    Question:  What paint do you guys use for painting the backing plates?  I wouldn’t think it would get too hot to need a high 500 degree temp paint but I could be wrong.


  • squirrel
    squirrel Member
    The drum gets kind of warm, the backing plate does not.
  • 40indianssgmailcom
    40indianssgmailcom Senior Contributor
    May have had a brain fart about the purple dot 5 but my Harley's use  it as specified on the master cylinders.  My dot 5 could be pre 2013 since the bikes are
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Question:  what can be done to remove the rust from inside the brakes drum?  Can it be done without ruining the surface the pad will push against.  I do plan on using the same pads I took off again. 




  • squirrel
    squirrel Member
    Sandblast the drums, get them turned, get new shoes....it never ends!  Or just scuff the rust off with sandpaper.

    (make sure you repack the wheel bearings, also)
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Sandpaper is fine

  • charles4d
    charles4d Expert Adviser
    If you use sand paper witch is fine do it outside ware a dust mask don't breath the dust no telling what might be in the dust
    My two cents
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Definitely will avoid breathing any asbestos or other nasties.  

    I picked up a lisle handy packer to try out. 

    I was starting to clean up the drum this morning & noticed the seal has some dings in it.  Will it effect the sealing?  Honestly I’m not really sure of the seals job here. If it’s to keep the grease from coming out between the seal felt & the hub face it mounts against, I’m not sure of its current condition.  Anyone?




  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    This may or may not help determine the need for a seal but I do have grease on this area.  Not sure if that’s normal or a sign to replace?


  • squirrel
    squirrel Member
    on my 51, I screwed the retaining nut onto the spindle, then put the hub/drum sort of in place on the spindle, let it drop down some, and yanked on it, and the seal and bearing stayed on the spindle, the hub came off. Hard to explain, easy to do. It's just a no-cost way to use a slide hammer like tool, to remove the seal.

    I also reused the seals, and mine look worse than yours. and they'll be fine. The felt keeps most of the grease in, and most of the dust out. It's not rocket surgery, you know.

  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Squirrel,  I did your nut method & it worked just fine.  I cleaned all the old grease out of the bearings with mineral spirits then blew air through them but didn’t let them spin.   The inside hub area had been filled with grease & I saved some of it.  Looks like a pile of scat!



  • squirrel
    squirrel Member
    I love old wheel bearings...I reuse them whenever possible. Made in USA.


  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Just a quick jump back to brake fluid...
    Doesn't Dot 5 require more pedal effort?
    What about a synthetic Dot 4?
    Jeff
  • squirrel
    squirrel Member
    I'd be interested in hearing a theory about why different brake fluid would require more pedal effort.

    I guess I'm old fashioned, I use good old Dot 3 in my Hudson, as well as my other old cars. It seems to work fine. And I don't have to worry about what is in it, when it's time to add more.

  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor

    Don't mess with re-building the wheel cylinders as new ones are only about $15.  BTW, I can't answer your email as it's a donot reply thing.  So here is what I sent ya.

    Yes, the 4360 is correct

    Seals, Rear Wheel  Inner    National     6356    36-54 x Jet    Chicago
    Rawhide    15960    Victor     49136    National    482253        Inner
    National    5811

    Brake Shoes    Auto Zone    151    36 thru 47 Front
    Brake Shoes    Auto Zone    31    36 thru 47 Rear

    You'll have to drill a hole in the secondary for the cam adjuster.  Use old
    shoe as a pattern.

    Larry aka Uncle Josh

  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Does anyone have a suggestion on spray paint for the drums?  Since the drums can get hot from braking I was thinking of using 500 degree paint.  
  • railknight
    railknight Expert Adviser
    BigSky, I have one of those wheel bearing packers that I purchased at Sears some years ago.   It's easy to use and does a nice job removing the old grease while replacing with new grease.  
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Ken, I got lucky a while back & was able to pick up Wagner wheel cylinders for $10 each off Amazon.  I wanted to go with steel braided brake lines & a guy on eBay was selling a full set of 3 that was supposed to be exactly like original in fit for $85.  Instead I took advantage of some coupons I had at car quest & bought a set of 3 & only paid $33 in total for all 3 hoses.  I couldn’t pass by that deal.  
    Doug Wildrick has been very very helpful with questions I’ve had over the last year & try to get what I can from him.  

    Uncle Josh,   thanks for the listed information, it’s very helpful!

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