1929 Hudson Super Six - engine overheating
Comments
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I could be wrong, but I think the video shows two Clifford carbs as were fitted to many Hudson Hornets from the 50's as aftermarket improvements. They could be mechanically synced together.0
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Hello Friends! Some advances but not there yet. The fuel line path was totally changed, it is now in the drivers side, passing on the front part of engine. Heat shield installed and also heat exchanger completely blocked. New air filter installed too. I believe I did everything I could to prevent vapor lock or boiling fuel. Engine block water chambers were cleaned through plugs removal. Water pumps seems to be working properly. Overheating still remains, unfortunately. I will now try to adjust timing, I believe If the spark is too retarded, it could cause the issue, so it should be advanced, any hints on this? I did not check valve clearance, could this be also an issue? Is 0,025” the recommendation? Thanks; Julio0
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You need to set with a timing light, with ignition lever fully advanced, engine idling and firing 2 FLYWHEEL teeth b.t.d.c.0
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thanks, Geoff. Could you please describe in more details the timing set procedure. Unfortunately I am not familiar with, so I will translate your guidance to a mechanic and he will try to follow. Regarding valve adjustements, any suggestion?0
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The steering wheel centre quadrant "Advance/Retard" needs to be set right down on the stop at the bottom position. Then the timing set with a timing light shining through the hole in the crankcase where you can see a pointer and the mark DC 1-6 on the flywheel. You may need to highlight this mark in white paint. Then the timing should be adjusted to 2 flywheel teeth, at idle, before the DC mark, by loosening the clamp on the distributor. Turn the distributor anti-clockwise to advance timing. You need to retard the timing for starting only, then have the timing set on full advance all the time for driving. Tappets should be set with engine hot, inlets at .004" between the valve and the rocker (not the push rod end). Exhaust at .008". Hope this is clear enough
Geoff
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Thank a lot again, Geoff. I will follow these directions.0
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What is the recommended contact point gap ? Thanks!0
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.017" works best for me.0
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Some good advancements on my 1929 Hudson. I have advanced the timing by one tooth, the car is much better now. I will keep testing.
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Geoff, you are a walking Hudson repair manual!
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Happy holidays! Years later, my car runs well, but it is very hard to start. Fortunately the overheating issue was solved. Starting is always painful, even with engine cold and new battery. In my car, to reinforce cranking, I use two 6v Optima batteries installed in parallel, doubling the starting current. Starter motor is apparently in good shape. Neverthless, car still has hard time starting. What the role of condensor in starting? Where should I start checking??
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First, check that you have a full 6 volts at the coil, from the ignition switch. If not you may have resistance across the switch, dirty contact points, or a bad connection somewhere. You should get a good fat white spark when you hold the centre distributor wire about half an inch from ground, and flick the ignition points open. Check that you have correct coil polarity also. Original set-up was negative ground. Two Optima battery is overkill. I never had starting problems with my '29 with a standard lead-acid battery. How fast does the engine turn over with the starter? if it is labouring you may have an internal short in the starter motor. Just a few thoughts.
Geoff .
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If wiring is old , check where they pass through the fire wall. That motor is dead easy to set ignition timing. Check things as Geoff has said. Are you using the original carb ? Are you using an electric fuel pump?
when it does run , how does it run ?
On mine , full retard , full choke for three full cranks , choke half in fires instantly. Back to advance on the lever at the wheel.
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