Clutch Pedal Adjustment - 1934 and 1935 Cars

Old Fogey UK

On my car, the cross shaft lever has 2 holes for the yoke clevis pin.

Why are there 2 holes ? 

Whichever one I attach the yoke to doesn't seem to make any difference when adjusting the pedal in accordance with the Manual.

I've always had difficulty getting smooth gear changes and sometimes have difficulty selecting 1st gear or reverse.

I'm wondering if it's because I'm not adjusting the clutch pedal properly, rather than being due to my poor shifting technique.

I'm using the upper hole (is it the correct one to use ?) and are there any tips beyond what the Manual says to set the clutch pedal properly ? 

Geoff

Use the inner hole, it  increases the pressure on the pedal slightly, but pushes the clutch in further.  when  changing gears, move  the gear lever immediately, as fast as possible, between low and second as soon as you have released the clutch, and slightly slower from second to top.   When changing down it is better to double-de-clutch, with a slight rev in the middle.
Geoff 

Old Fogey UK

Thank you Geoff.
I've been taking it slow when changing up, double declutching with a pause in neutral - I remember once reading in WTN that was the way to do it.
On changing down, I've double declutched and revved in neutral just as you recommend.
I will modify my shifting pattern in accordance with your advice.
I'm still wondering why there are 2 holes in the pivot lever ?

bob ward

The one on my car has 3 holes to choose from.

Geoff

A slow gear change is the norm for  the old straight cut gears up to 1931, but with the new so-called "synchro-shift" the change must be made without any delay.

barrysweet52

Not an expert or have a lot of experience, but my understanding is to change gears when they are are moving at the same speed. This to me agrees with the above comments and thought it might help people understand what is going on in the box.

Old Fogey UK

I managed  to set up the clutch pedal this morning using the inner hole on the pivot lever. I got a retired mechanic friend to come round to help - this  job is virtually impossible to do on your own. The lock nut for the yoke was missing so I installed one.
The play on the pedal is still a bit more than 1 1/2 inches but there are no more graunching noises when gear shifting so I'm leaving well enough alone now.

Geoff

An important thing to check is the condition of the tapered pin holding the throw-out linkage to the shaft. If there is any movement here at all, it will lead to breakage eventually.  Unfortunately not an easy thing to fix, but you still need to be aware.  

Old Fogey UK

Thank you, Geoff. I'll look into that.

Old Fogey UK

I took the car out this morning for a 25 mile drive and gear changes were a lot easier with the adjusted pedal and Geoff's shifting technique. The only difficulty was when I came to put the car away in the garage.
My driveway is quite narrow and twisting and it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get the car lined up with the garage entrance. Moving the car backwards and forwards, changes between low and reverse suddenly became quite hard to do.
I've read somewhere (I think in the Railton Owners Club bulletin) that there's sometimes a problem getting gears when the engine and transmission are hot.
Is this just a myth or is there a reason why this is so ?

Geoff

If you are slipping the clutch continuously the corks heat up and swell, causing drag.  check the level of fluid in the clutch, and minimise slipping as much as you can.  

Old Fogey UK

I'm using 1/3 pint (US) of Dexron III automatic transmission fluid.
I'll flush with kerosene and refill.
Will it do any harm to put in a little more - say 1/3 Imperial pint ?

bob ward

1/3 US pint is 160ml, so call it 200ml for 1/3 imperial pint. I can't see an extra 40ml causing too many problems, at rest the fluid level will increase by 1/8".

Geoff

If you put more in the clutch plate may "Hydraulic".  May also slip.  However, if  this does occur it is easy to drain a little bit out.  

Huddy42

One advantage of using Kevlar, no swelling of corks.

Old Fogey UK

Hello Huddy42,
Please could you enlighten me on what you say about Kevlar ?

bob ward

Kevlar was first used as the friction surface in oil clutch plates (forklifts and other industrial equipment) not too many years after kevlar was invented in 1965. Its bonded to the clutch plate in much the same way as dry clutch plates are made, i.e. a phenolic resin and lots of heat and pressure.
30 plus years ago Les saw the kevlar facings as a way around a shortage of the good quality cork that is needed to successfully rebuild a traditional Hudson clutch plate. 

Old Fogey UK

Thanks Bob.
I hadn't heard anything about that use of Kevlar before. Is it a feasible 21st Century substitute for corks ?
Certainly, no-one in the Railton Owners Club has ever raised it to my knowledge. I might put something in the Club newsletter about Kevlar clutch facings.

bob ward

Very feasible, its widely used down here, largely thanks to Les (Huddy 42) who was Australia's go to Hudson clutch supplier for many years. If you search the forum you will find a few posts on kevlar faced clutch plates.

Old Fogey UK

I've been doing some research on the Internet and it seems that Kevlar has been used to reface cork/oil clutches in prewar MGs here in the UK. I'm going to try to find out if anyone in the ROC has gone down this route.