instrument panel faceplate

[Deleted User]

I have installed a new fuel sending unit in the gas tank in my '53 Hornet, but the gauge still dosen't work, so I guess I'll have to pull the faceplate off the clock and speedometer to get at it (fuel gauge). Looking at the front of it though, there dosen't appear to be any screws or fasteners showing that hold it on. Does it just pry off, or are there some fasteners in the back somewhere? I'm a little spooky about sticking something under the edge and prying on it especially if it wasn't meant to be removed by this method. While I'm in there, I'll see if I can find out why the instrument lights are out too, (its probably just burnt bulbs) but are there some fuses hidden somewhere that I can't see by laying under the dash?
Just trying to do it right first time --- these parts are too valuable to mess up learning too late how you should have done it!

Thanks in advance,

silverone.

Unknown

i just had the instrument panel out of a '51 commodore six,i think they're the same.there are 5 3/8" wrench size nuts that hold it to the dash,1 in the bottom center under the gas/water temp,1 at about the 4 o'clock,1 about at 10 o'clock,1 aat about 25 mph,and the last at about 75 mph.they're all about 1/4" in from the edge,use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a deep socket and good luck!-george

[Deleted User]

Thanks George, I'll go at it now with a little more confidence that I won't be wrecking something! ( I sure hate that snapping sound when you know you've just broke something )
The advice is much appreciated!

silverone

Unknown

I just reinstalled my cluster in my '51. If you disconnect the speedometer cable you can pull the entire cluster out far enough to disconnect (and mark) all of the wires. You will probably find it easier to work on the guages with the cluster on a bench. Also the center nut is directly over the steering column. Hard to see but easy to feel. If you take out your front seat cushion, you will gain a couple of precious inches that help getting under the dash. If you have small hands the job isn't too bad.

Unknown

One more suggestion: if you need more room to work under the dash, pulling the radio will give you some more work space plus some extra light as an added bouus.

[Deleted User]

That's a great idea!! I'm not a very little Guy, so any extra room will be really welcome --- and extra light too --- since I wear glasses -- bifocals -- and sometimes can't get my head back far enough to see the closeup stuff.
Also since my seat mechanism appears to be broken I was contemplating pulling the whole works out completely for some wiggle room -- never dawned on me that maybe I could just remove the front seat cushion
Duhhhh -- oh well, I gues that's what makes Hudson cars so special -- its not only the cars, but all the great people who own and care for them too!
Many thanks for the comments!
silverone.

Park_W

Actually, I think pulling the radio SPEAKER is of more benefit. It's easy, and you can see a fair bit of the back (front?)side of the cluster

[Deleted User]

Good idea! I'll see what I can see with that out of the way!

silverone

Unknown

Hi,--- Make sure your new fuel sending unit is well grounded or it will not work. I recently had the same problem with my 54 Hornet & had to run a separate wire from the unit to one of the bolts on the rear pumpkin. Cliff Minard.

[Deleted User]

I think you hit it right on the head with that one Cliff! I had the tank removed, coated inside with sealer, and outside with a black rubber-like compound, and the straps powder-coated. No way the thing has a chance to ground now!
I'll try the jumper wire like you did and see what happens. I'll bet it works!

I'll let you know if it did.

Thanks -- silverone

Unknown

Pretty ironic this thread got started, I think I'm looking at replacing the dash and warning lights in my cluster. I found out yesterday that the charger/booster got jacked up to 200 amp boost while trying to start the 53 Super Wasp (that setting was also 12v).

First, what kind of damage am I looking at? The guages still work but I don't have any dash lighting and the radio ceased to work.

Second, do any of you know what part numbers I need when ordering bulbs. The courtesy lights, dash lights, warning lights, parking lights, and brake lights have stopped working. This correlates with the boost amperage usage. I have a real good NAPA parts house here who will work with me if I can get some relatively modern bulb numbers.

haste makes waste

Mark Hudson

Park_W

But I'd not run the ground wire to the pumpkin ... a better ground is to the frame. Use one of the bolts for the left side axle bumper, or another convenient place.

Park_W

Mark, are you looking for 12v bulb numbers, or 6v ones? The latter are all listed in the owner manual. I have all the 12v numbers in my tech notes for 12v conversion. E-mail me for a copy.

Unknown

I managed to get the parking lights working, they just lacked a good ground and needed a little twisting in the socket. I pulled the speaker out, reached through and took the instrument panel bulbs out - all shot.

Park, good to hear from you! I'm leaving everything 6v at the moment. All the wiring looks good, cranks like a champ, and it is charging really well.

Mark Hudson

Sometimes small town living and hometown folks at the NAPA store pays off -they got all the right 6v bulbs ordered and will be in tomorrow morning.

Unknown

Well Cliff, I got the fuel gauge working now, but in a way I didn't expect it to! I was out for a drive yesterday, and needed gas, so I stopped to fill 'er up! Danged if the fuel gauge wasn't working when I hopped back in, -- although showing only 3/4 tank. So now I'm thinking the float is a bit off, and because I didn't have much gas in the tank when I first reinstalled it after having it coated inside and out, the float probably hadn't lifted yet! Don't ask me how its getting a ground though, as it sure shouldn't be able to with all the coating, powder coat, etc. that its got on it now!
One thing I never do though --- is agrue with success, so I'll just drive around confident that I'll never run out of gas now, because when its reading empty, I should still have a quarter-tank!

silverone

Unknown

Hi Silverone,---I am more certain than ever that your problem is grounding as I went through the same partial success that you are experiencing before a permanent fix with the ground wire. But I would take Park's advice regarding the ground location, however mine is working beautifully with the extra ground wire hooked to the pumpkin. Cliff Minard.

[Deleted User]

I had the tank on My 54 cleaned and sealed and when I replaced the tank, I had trouble getting the Gas line attached to the pick up tube, so I cut the line and put in a short piece of rubber hose. Then the gas gauge would not work! The gas line was providing a ground for the gauge, Ran a ground from the pick up tube to the trunk floor, now works again........