Is dipping better than sandblasting?

[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Here's a question that could get really long-winded, but what the heck, I'll try it anyway. I'm looking at restoring my '53 Coupe, and then my '53 Convertible, by stripping the body completely, and starting back with bare metal. However, I'm wondering how the heck you sandblast a uni-body and expect to get all the rust from every nook and cranny that it is obviously hiding in, such as inside the frame rails, door posts, etc. I don't see the point in going to all this trouble if rust can just creep out again in a few years and mess everything up all over again.

The alternative as I see it would be to dip the body in a stripping solution such as that offered by the local branch of redi-strip, or their equivalent, but I've heard of a few concerns with this process also, such as the solution itself getting trapped between sandwiched sheet metal panels, etc. and basically doing the same thing as rust when it begins to leach out again over the years.

I realize the body is dipped again in a neutralizing solution, but someone told me the final dip is just plain water, which must start the rust process all over again too.

Soooo -- is there a prep-for-paint dip offered in the chain of events as well, such as a primer dip, or a galvanizing, or zinc, or whatever dip available too, -- where every square inch of every surface gets a coat of prep, including inside the frame, door posts, etc. etc.

What have some of you Guys done? Which is the better process for a stepdown in your opinion -- dip or sandblast?



silverone

Comments

  • EssexAdv
    EssexAdv Expert Adviser, Member
    I too have heard the same issues about dipping the metal and trapping soloution in places. HOwever, I know no one who has used Redi-Strip. ONe thin I do know is the rust process is not as big a deal as you think. I talked to my local machinest. They use a hot water system to clean parts. I asked him about rust. He says there is an anti-rust additive which they put in the water to retard the start of rust. I then talked to another machinest whou does hot tanking. He said a mojor componet of the hot tak fluid was water. IT too was treated to retard rust. AND that the final bath was only water. NO rust problklmes with any of the processes. NOt to say it couldn't happen. Rather that it shouldn't if done properly...BUT here is ther real problem. The liquid will get into everywhere. How do you coat everything after it is stripped? I know of no effective way to treat the intire interior of the frame.

    Lew
  • My car was redi-stripped about three years ago and sat with only etching primer for about two years with no signs of any rust. The process took off everything, including the lead from the pork chops. I know of no other way to get into all the nooks and crevices than to dip. While the process may not be perfect, it, in my opinion, is less harmful to the body than sand blasting or media blasting. Between primer, POR 15 and paint, I am comfortable that 99% of the body is covered. The process cost around $3500.00 as best I an recall but I think that it was well worth it. There had to be a small hole drilled in the roof in order to submerge the body but that was the only real damage done, other than a couple to small dents that may have been there prior to the process. The first time that I saw this process done was in the early 1970's and I saw a Rolls Royce being dipped, so this isn't anything new. I would say to go with it.
  • As 51 coupe said. Came back from redi strip clean as a pin. Did take all the lead off as well as all the rust,paint and under coating. A hole was also drilled in each rear wheel well along with the hole in center of top. Also the stuff eat some of the threads out of the welded in nuts so I had to use nuts as backup. Every thing has to be removed from body and chassis. I removed every thing but the front frame as the tanks would take a 20ft. body. After geting the thing back I sprayed all inside the doors and body as well as every thing else with a 2 part etching primer. Sprayed the complete chassis with POR 15. Used a old spray cleaner with long spout to spray inside the frame holes. If you want to start out with a compelety clean job thats the way to go. BK.TN.
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