Fuel pumps

464Saloon

My car has had a temporary electric pump added to it. Previous owner said the mechanical was weak. What does that mean? I would think being a diaphram pump it would either work or not work. I don't want to keep this temporary pump on it. Are there original pumps still out there with the wiper motor pump on them? Is there a test I should perform first on this pump. It's a 54 308 and the vacuum side seems to pull vacuum on my vacuum gauge.



Thanks

hudsonguy

464Saloon,



I think that a diaphragm can get weak and 'stretched', which would be a gradual decline, rather than 'work or not work', but anyways, yes you can get a rebuilt ready to bolt on dual action pump from Dave Kostansek, as well as others in the club. There are usually ads in WTN. I'm sure others can advise you on the vacuum tests or values better than I.

Nevada Hudson

hudsonguy wrote:

464Saloon,



I think that a diaphragm can get weak and 'stretched', which would be a gradual decline, rather than 'work or not work', but anyways, yes you can get a rebuilt ready to bolt on dual action pump from Dave Kostansek, as well as others in the club. There are usually ads in WTN. I'm sure others can advise you on the vacuum tests or values better than I.

Dave Kostansek (440) 994-9173; or (440) 293-4079. Please call before 8 PM Eastern Time. Dave has has all your ignition and fuel related needs, best prices too!

Jon B

I'd definitely get a nice rebuilt pump (from Dave K or others), but as long as someone has installed the electric pump in the car, I'd keep it as a backup. You could wire it to a simple toggle switch under the dash. If your car should vapor lock -- or, if it's been sitting for weeks -- you'll find the electric pump quite handy.

464Saloon

Only problem is that the pump is supported by a wire to the air cleaner and powered off the ignition coil. This of course cannot be left permanently this way. I haven't looked at the pump that close, I am surprised it works off 6V. To those of you who have done this before, what would be a good place to mount it and a recommended place to pull power for it?

Walt-LA

Mount it close to the tank, but where it won't get hit by road debris. Walbro pumps, at least, have been available in both 6V and 12 V versions for some time. Watch the pressure. It should be low on the older carburetors. Some pumps have variable pressure adjustments. Don't know what you have. Walt

464Saloon

It's about as far from the tank right now as you can get, just inches from the carb right now. What would be the best safest place to pull the power for it from?

bobbydamit

464Saloon wrote:

It's about as far from the tank right now as you can get, just inches from the carb right now. What would be the best safest place to pull the power for it from?

I usually mount a booster electric pump for the " sitting a long time and vapor lock " problems, at the rear of the passengers side frame rail, about under the rear seat. Powering it is best a heavy line, fused per the pump needs, from the ignition block or battery, to a switch with a lighted indicator, under the dash. It is only needed for a moment to start the car under these conditions and can be switched off for running. A filter before the pump is advisable too and forget about the noise, as it will not be on while running, just to start. Plus the noise can remind you it is on if you forget, and it is not wired through a [ignition hot only] circuit. I would also refrain from mounting in the truck, like I have seen many times. This is a hazard, especially incase it ever leaks. Plus it is harder to suck fuel on initiation rather push it.

PS. A Hudson Vacuum advance module does the returning for itself. Distributors that have mechanical centrifugal advances use springs to bring them back during low or no rpm. I hope this helps.