1949 Hudson dies and will not restart

Unknown

Gary... Glad to hear the positive result report! Happy Hudsonin'



Cheers

Jon B

In regards to a cover for the Optima 6-volt battery, which simulates a vintage battery, here is one possibility...though it's rather cheesy. I think I have seen other more lifelike covers elsewhere, which cover more than three sides of the battery.



http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?dept_id=1201&pf_id=43214&mscssid=A3WGFT04H4699KJQJPQFUFXMT6V3D71A

Unknown

Hello glad optima battery worked out,Ive been trying to find the phone number for the company.I know it was Quail services,in Southern Calif.area Gary Osko and was around 85.00 with shipping.If I find phone # Ill post it.Phill

mars55

Here is the link to Quail Services. They make nice battery cover for Optima batteries.



http://www.quailservices.com/

Unknown

Thats it.I put in my Hornet with the original top hold down, fit great.you do have to let Gary know how high you battery is so box fits.(there were 2 diffrent height optima batteries for 6 volt.Phill

rambos_ride

Excellent - and just in time for some nice weather to go for more test drives!

Those Optima batteries are some of the best. I bought a 12V for my CJ5 when they first came out many years ago (thankfully, for all - the price has dropped considerably since then )

The thing that sold me was the sales video the parts guys showed me of someone capping a .45 cal bullet straight through the casing and still starting the car! I was sold!

And they don't seep battery acid all over everything either. Really a great thing in a 4x4 or...maybe... a Hudson going really fast around corners?

Unknown

The Optima 6V Battery and new battery cables solved the starting issue! It even started up today at a car show after having the door open for hours.



Car drove in to the show ( 25 miles, no issue). On the way home, was driving at speed ( not at idle ) and the engine just cut out. The car was still moving and after a distance of coasting the engine fired back up. The car continued to do this for some time. Closer to home, it stopped cutting out intermittently and then ran fine. The engine acted up after a stretch through town where the speed limit was 35mph. It was warm today. Was that VAPOR LOCK? Does Vapor Lock cause the engine to quit running ( smooth cut of, no missing ) and would it be logical for the engine to fire back up as the car was still in gear and the engine still turning? Guess I am not sure exactly what Vapor Lock feels like ( what the symptoms are ). Next logical step to re-route the fuel line from the mechanical pump to the firewall?



BST RGDS

GARY ( happychris )



p.s. - the car took 3rd place at the car show. Only Hudson there, although there was a 29 Nash and a 52 Willys

Unknown

I placed an order for the battery disguise from Quail Services - thanks for the information and source.



Attached is a picture of the car having these issues



BST RGDS

GARY ( happychris )http://www.classicchevyclubofnoar.com/GaryPhillipsProjectB%20(1)_small.JPG

brnhornet52*

Hi Gary,

From your description of the day's events, it would seem like you're having some sort of ignition breakdown rather than fuel problem, especially if its a smooth cutoff, rather than a chug-chug kind of quit.

Places I would check would be the small ground strap in the distributor, coil wire, igntion wire to coil , coil wire to distributor (both small and large) Your problem seems to be electrical.

Unknown

happychris wrote:

The Optima 6V Battery and new battery cables solved the starting issue! It even started up today at a car show after having the door open for hours.

Car drove in to the show ( 25 miles, no issue). On the way home, was driving at speed ( not at idle ) and the engine just cut out. The car was still moving and after a distance of coasting the engine fired back up. The car continued to do this for some time. Closer to home, it stopped cutting out intermittently and then ran fine. The engine acted up after a stretch through town where the speed limit was 35mph. It was warm today. Was that VAPOR LOCK? Does Vapor Lock cause the engine to quit running ( smooth cut of, no missing ) and would it be logical for the engine to fire back up as the car was still in gear and the engine still turning? Guess I am not sure exactly what Vapor Lock feels like ( what the symptoms are ). Next logical step to re-route the fuel line from the mechanical pump to the firewall?

Gary:

I would suggest that your points may be closing and opening erraticly due to rubbing block failure? Loose mounting screw(s)? Add these to the recommended checks from others...

Cheers:o

TwinH

For peace of mind I'd replace the ignition condenser. Had this happen on a 63 Chevy

after a tune-up. The new Napa(Echlin) condenser functioned fine until it got warm and

then it would short to ground(killing the ignition).In a very short time it would cool down enough to work again. Problem being I didn't catch it until it shut off at highway speed

and while I was coasting to the shoulder had a huge explosion followed by the sound

of metal dragging on the road. Seems the mufflers(new) had filled with gas fumes

while coasting and when the condenser unshorted the fumes exploded with the force

of a grenade inside the mufflers... Expensive damage from a defective $3 part.

[Deleted User]

It is almost impossible to tell the difference between something shorting in the distributor and a gas blockage, the last time I had a problem like yours, it was a gas filter where it went into the carb. (This was on a seventies vintage dump truck) has exactly the same symptoms. You could not tell the filter was clogging up by looking at it. I have also had exactly these symptoms with the ground wire on the distributor as described above. This is frustrating, buy you have to follow both paths. This is not vapor lock.

harry54

I have a 53 that on hot days does the same thing. I installed an electric back up fuel pump and when it starts to vapor lock I hit a switch under the dash and away I go. I also have a 54 that never has the problem. I think the fact that the 54 has a functioning hood scoop makes a difference . I always operate on the Mechanical pump and use the electric as back up. good luck

bobbydamit

Wow, It occurs to me we have a crowd gathering over at the Hudson that does not start. What a great group we have, us Hudson Lovers. Just look at the hits this topic has gotten. GREAT

None of us ever want to hear that cranking sound of a Hud. and not hear the positive burst of power when it fires. There is no worse sound to a mechanics ears, then the loss of the [FIRE] sound after a few cranks. So to that I' like to add a much over looked item in the Hudsons of today, that can cause the dreaded. no restart after killing. Picture the sediment in the gas tank as being fine particles of material, all flowing to the electric fuel pump screen and slowly blocking it. A jump from a 12 volt supply can run the pump harder and break up the blockage, making a path. Until the next time the blockage is built up and it quits during idle. Disconnect the line from the pump to the carb and check for flow by turning the key on. If none, remove the line from the tank to the pump and allow the fuel in the line and pump to drain backwards into a pail. If it contains any particles, remove the pump and clean the screen. Install a filter, or two, in-line between the tank and pump. If you loose fuel flow, remove the one closest to the tank and be on your way. I hope this in not your problem, but we should never over look the fact that our tanks are getting rusty and can cause the very symptoms your car has displayed. Good luck.

Unknown

I agree the responses have be GREAT! I am not sure which proposed fix to try 1st. I already have a 6V Diaphram Type electric fuel pump installed near the gas tank. I do have a in-line gas filter before it. I think I will replace it just in case. I did follow the advice to change the battery and battery cables - now have a 6V Optiima and Double 0 Gauge Battery Cables. I have not replaced the condenser yet, but checked the wiring to the distributor. The gas line is currently routed quite a ways away from the exhaust and intake manifolds. I have yet to cut the metal fuel line and re-route to the firewall. It looks like there should be more than enough space between the engine manifolds and the gas line to preclude vapor lock. I did try the suggested wooden clothes pin trick. I then took the car for an extended road trip. It ran great both out and back. Never died once, ran really strong for about a 60 mile trip. I am going to have to make more road trips to become convinced that the problem is really gone.



Plan ( assuming that the problem is not gone yet ):

A. Replace the in-line Gas Filter before the Electric Fuel Pump ( the in-line Filter between the mechanical pump and carb inlet is new; also clear and is not obstructed at all ).

B. Replace the Condenser ( does anyone have a source for 6V condensers? ). Check the points.

C. Re-route fuel line to fender wall.

D. Replace 6V Diaphram Electric Fuel Pump with 6V Rotary Vane Fuel Pump ( already purchased this from Summit Racing, just have not installed it )

E. Replace 6V Coil ( again, anyone have a source - I am aware of Kanter, are they the best? )



BST RGDS

GARY ( happychris )

[Deleted User]

had the same thing go wrong on my 49 hudson, fixed all those things on the distributer it still did it when ever it felt like it. found a used distributer put it in never happened again

Jon B

Try the simple and cheap "fixes" first.



1). replace & check all filters and filter screens (look for evidence of rust or scale from gas tank, in sediment bowls and filters; if you find any, this may indicate corrosion in gas tank.



2). condenser



3). visually inspect all ignition wiring carefully for shorts, including where the wiring comes in the side of the distributor (there are insulators there to keep it from shorting on the distributor). Check wire to ignition switch, especially where it passes through the firewall.



4). visually inspect the fuel line running back to the tank, over its entire length. Pinholes (at points of corrosion) can allow air into the line, meaning the fuel pump is sucking air and may have a hard time keeping up with the engine's demands.



My guess is it's NOT the coil and NOT vapor lock. These problems don't go away in a few seconds, as yours have, but require a long cooling-down process to cure. I'm guessing it's NOT the electric fuel pump either; you now have two fuel pumps working in tandem and it would be extraordinary for both of them to malfunctioning.

Unknown

Latest Update -



Replaced:

Wire from ignition to the coil

Gas Filter between tank and electric fuel pump

Electric diaphram type fuel pump with 6V Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump

Re-routed gas line to fenderwell

New condenser



Car has now been on several prolonged road trips with no reoccurence of the issue. The car has not missed a beat ( lately ). I know I used the "shot-gun" approach but I felt it was better to over do and not be left on the side of the road.



THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUTS AND EXELLENT ADVISE! It was MUCH APRECIATED!



BST RGDS

GARY ( happychris )

[Deleted User]

Also remember to get yourself a set of spares for the toolbox in the trunk.

Unknown

LATEST UPDATE - The car now has a:

New ignition wire from coil to ignition switch

New fuel filter back by the gas tank

New Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump

Re-routed fuel ine from mechanical pump to the carb inlet



The problem was - condenser. Replacing the condenser solved the issue. The car has been on several hundred mile cruises without even a burp!



THANKS TO ALL FOR THE SAGE ADVICE! It was MUCH APPRECIATED!!!



BST RGDS

GARY ( happychris )