Timing a 1937 Terra
barrysweet52
Expert Adviser
Appreciate helpful comments re timing a 37 Terra. How does everyone do it?Static method or using a timing gun. Its not easy with wide fenders or using the flywheel marks. Ive also heard you get better performance and economy setting the motor a few degrees before TDC.
I saw recently a motor where someone had made a 1/2" wide metal finger out of 1/16 guage sheet metal, bent neatly and bolted under a timing cover bolt, with an arrowpoint pointing to the crank pulley. A TDC mark was made on the pulley. This would make it easy to remove the distributer for a bench clean and points reset, and also to time the motor with a gun.
Im in the process of replacing the inlet manifold and carby with a double barrell Carter. The 1937 Terra was the first year they had double barrell carbies. Ive read the motors run smoother, and more economical with an extra 5 or 6 BHP. Has anyone else done this? What were the results. Any suggestions with tuning? Thanks
I saw recently a motor where someone had made a 1/2" wide metal finger out of 1/16 guage sheet metal, bent neatly and bolted under a timing cover bolt, with an arrowpoint pointing to the crank pulley. A TDC mark was made on the pulley. This would make it easy to remove the distributer for a bench clean and points reset, and also to time the motor with a gun.
Im in the process of replacing the inlet manifold and carby with a double barrell Carter. The 1937 Terra was the first year they had double barrell carbies. Ive read the motors run smoother, and more economical with an extra 5 or 6 BHP. Has anyone else done this? What were the results. Any suggestions with tuning? Thanks
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Comments
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I use the static method and double check it with a timing light. it IS a bit tough to eliminate the parallax factor when you're looking at the factory timing marks and pointer, but it's do-able (I use a mirror). You can indeed run these babies with a basic advance of 5 degrees or so, as the original timing recommendations were based on 80 octane gas.0
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Another reliable method to set timing is to use a vacuum gauge. If your engine is healthy, i.e. no burnt valves or worn rings, this works great. Simply hook up a vacuum gauge to the engine after if has warmed up. The windshield wiper port is what I use. The gauge will have a range where the engine should be, around 20. Adjust your timing as the engine runs at fast idle until you get the highest vacuum reading, then back off (retard) a touch.
This method compensates for parallax and other problems with the timing mark such as worn camshaft or distributor gears, and gives the engine exactly what it wants.
It is also superior to the old "advance it until it pings under load, then back off" method, which would work passably so if 1930-era low-octane gasoline were available. However, it is questionable with modern high-octane gasoline running in a low compression (6 or 7 to one) engine. Because early engines were designed to run on much lower octane, they will exhibit pinging on modern gas only when they are advanced past the optimal setting, resulting in a false (too far advanced) reading.0 -
Thanks for the help. The vacuum method sounds good. Unfortunately I cant try it now, as Im burning oil and the rings arent that good. Thanks for confirming one can change the timing due to using todays octane rated petrol. Interesting in another thread someone uses a 6V torch battery + 6V car battery to get 12 volts and then uses his 12V timing gun.0
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The timing gun does not need to get its electricity from the same car that the gun is pointed at to check timing. You can take a 12V battery, put it on the ground next to the Terraplane, hook the gun to it, and check the timing.0
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Berry;
You can also connect the leads to a 12V battey charger to get the timing light to work. I've done this for years, and it works fine. Saves having to lug a heavey battery around.0 -
Barry;
Thank You for the timing Indicator for the front timing cover, it will make timing easy!!. I also have a 6 volt Timing light if you wish to use.0
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