49 Bendix Sticks in Flywheel

Unknown

Anyone else ever run across this? Getting ready to fire up the motor for the first time and the darn bendix jams in flywheel and does not retract. Already loosed the starter and retightened a few times using some pressure. Was wondering if there might be some adjustmnent I am not aware of. Seems to me that the bedix is going too far foward, thus jamming.



Any thoughts?

Unknown

Dennis. Seems there was a thread about this awhile back. Go to the top to search and type bendix.

Geoff

There is no adjustment to alleviate this condition, you either have to replace the ring gear, or build up the worn teeth and re-profile. This can be done with the flywheel still in the car, but it is a bit tricky. You have to put a dob of arc-weld on the worn teeth and then re-grind with a small die-grinder to the correct lead-in chamfer as on the other teeth. I have done this on several cars, mainly Essex, which have coarser teeth. Generally there are about 6 teeth either side of the general stopping point, on three places around the flywheel on a 6 cylinder, and 4 places on an 8 cylinder. You will have to build these up and re-grind. What happens is the teeth get the chamfer worn off, and the pinion can then wind in on the wrong side of the tooth and jam. Whoever invented the "Brutal Bendix" should be destined to perform this operation for eternity! It is a cheap alternative to the pre-select mechanism which meshes the gear before closing the contacts as used on all Hudsons up to 1929.

Geoff.

faustmb

The same thing happened to my pacemaker a few months back. The car sat for about 5 years without running. After starting it only a few times, the bendix stuck. It popped loose as soon as I loosened the starter bolts. It happened once more the same day. After that, I removed the starter and completely disassembled the bendix. I cleaned all of the thick old grease and sludge off and replaced it with some light lithium grease. That was in October and I have had no problems since. The teeth on the flywheel and the teeth on the starter appreared to be in good shape, but were also a little gummy.



Matt

hdsn49

Dennis,



This could be caused by gum and dirt on the screw threads of the bendix drive. They need to be cleaned with a little bit of kerosene. Mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear by hand, use a brush dipped in kersosine and brush the screw threads. Rotate the pionion while brushing



If this does not work look for a cocked or deformed drive spring. Check for a bent armature. Or do as I did. I had the starter and generator rebuilt by a local auto electrical shop. It only cost me $75.00 for both and that included a new starter solenoid. While he rebuilt them I painted the covers and put new ID plates from K gap

on them. They look brand new. I have not had any problems.

Unknown

ONE OF THE MAJOR PROBLEMS THAT CAUSE THIS IS THE FACT THAT MANY PEOPLE WHO BOLT THINGS TOGETHER LEAVE OUT THE ORIGINAL STARTER STUDS THAT HAVE A CENTER SHOULDER AND FIT BETWEEN MOTOR PLATE AND BELL HOUSING AND REAUIRE NUTS ON BOTH ENDS. iF YOU ARE USING REGULAR BOLTS WITH NUTS THIS PROBLEM WILL PERSIST, CHECK FOR PROPER STARTER STUDS FIRST, THEN TAKE THE CLEANING ADVICE FROM THE OTHER POSTERS, GOOD LUCK, BILL ALBRIGHT

Unknown

Bill A - you are correct, that is what happened. I buttoned everything up and did not realize until after I had the engine/trans in the car that I had left the studs out. I really dont want to have to take the trans out just to put these studs in......yikes. What a boo boo. No, what a nightmare.

Unknown

I Was Right Again, 35 Years Working On These Hudsons Makes You Al Little Smarter. Pull Your Seat Aout And Start Over, Good Luck, Bill Albright

Geoff

I misunderstood the condition when I replied. With a worn ring gear, the pinion will sometimes stick in the wrong side of the tooth, usually signified by a "clunk", and the starter will not torn. However, I disagree with Bill. (Sorry Bill). You don't have to take the transmission out again. Loosen the bolts off slightly and check sideways movement. Position the starter centrally and it should then mesh freely and disengage. And make sure you do the bolts up real tight. Neither my previous Pacemaker nor my Hornet has these proper studs fitted, and they work okay with bolts. However, it is best to insert the bolts from the back so the shank locates in the bell housing. Good luck,

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

Anyone have a part number or know where I can get a couple sets of these starter studs? One of my engines has them, the other does not.

Unknown

I agree with Geoff, the OE studs are not necessary for the starter to operate correctly.

Unknown

I agree with Geoff and Fred. Have been useing bolts in place of the studs for over 60 years now.