'52 Hornet coupe restoration

[Deleted User]

Removed engine/trans, most of stainless steel trim and pot metal along with front and rear seats... I am planning to install '93 Camaro engine/trans, want to also change front end suspension using power disc brakes and power steering; does anyone have some helpful constructive recommendations, I also want to change interior seats using power seat and leather front/rear seats for late model car, has any member been successful with seat change, I measured width at 65 inches across...



Thanks,



Ray

MikeWA

I did some measuring when I was thinking of modern power seat for stepdown coupe- only thing I found that will work for both front and back is late 70's Lincoln Town Coupe (the really large version, before they went to the Ford platform). Some Caddys are almost wide enough for the front seat, but back seat is narrow because it sits between the wheel wells on that car- Lincoln is full width, both front and back- about 63 inches, as I recall.

rambos_ride

I love the "spin" on the article

"..found that I could have the car up and rolling one the Fat Man's stub for about $550 LESS than rebuilding the original suspension..."

Uh...what about the cost of the stub 900-3400.00+?

[Deleted User]

Yes, I am under the impression that it is a "hefty" sum... Jay ("jsrail") would know, as I believe he has purchased one of their stubs for his Hudson. I think it is around $2,600.00+, part of the reason I've 'hesitated' on it for one of my projects.

Yes, I'm in agreement cost is much too much...While weather is permitting we removed the balance of stainless trim, pot metal (only have little more on dashboard) and gas tank...If weather stays like today, I plan to remove quarter panels, doors, trunk and hood this Sunday and bring to blasting shop mid week, then I'll have body shell towed for balance of blasting required. Got a lot done in two weeks, however as soon as the 100 plus degree weather sets in, I'll wait to fall to start again; working in hot sun isn't rewarding.



Has anyone ever tried or considered using 90's Ford Thunderbird rear independent suspension, if so, I 'd appreciate learning about...I have some spare parts that I will not use, anybody interested in front L/R windsield, rebuilt waterpump, 308 head gasket, looks like recently worked on double action fuel pump, starter and generator; if any interest, email me, my location is Las Vegas.

rambos_ride

Ray wrote:

Removed engine/trans, most of stainless steel trim and pot metal along with front and rear seats... I am planning to install '93 Camaro engine/trans, want to also change front end suspension using power disc brakes and power steering; does anyone have some helpful constructive recommendations, I also want to change interior seats using power seat and leather front/rear seats for late model car, has any member been successful with seat change, I measured width at 65 inches across...

Thanks,

Ray

Back to your original post...

Search the forum for LaBuds or Ken Cates web page and you'll get the information for a bolt-on Disc brake setup for the front end that uses the original spindles - reasonably priced.

Power steering will be a problem - I don't know an easy answer to this one without spending some coin on the Fat Fab setup or swapping the entire front cradle and steering from some other unknown style of car. One thing I might look into is a steering quickner - but I have never used one so I don't know what it would be like for a cruiser...

I fit a GM454/TH400 into my commodore - so the 93 (small block?) motor will fit easily with only some slight consideration for the exhaust routing around the pitman arm and drag link on the drivers side and making new crossmember for the rear of the transmission - but you shouldn't need to modify the pitman arm or drag link as I had to...

[Deleted User]

rambos_ride wrote:

Back to your original post...



Search the forum for LaBuds or Ken Cates web page and you'll get the information for a bolt-on Disc brake setup for the front end that uses the original spindles - reasonably priced.



Power steering will be a problem - I don't know an easy answer to this one without spending some coin on the Fat Fab setup or swapping the entire front cradle and steering from some other unknown style of car. One thing I might look into is a steering quickner - but I have never used one so I don't know what it would be like for a cruiser...



I fit a GM454/TH400 into my commodore - so the 93 (small block?) motor will fit easily with only some slight consideration for the exhaust routing around the pitman arm and drag link on the drivers side and making new crossmember for the rear of the transmission - but you shouldn't need to modify the pitman arm or drag link as I had to...

Thanks to you all who have made recommedations to date:



Going out to the shop where car is today to do a little more work; chrome shop is coming to pick up stainless and pot metal. I know I'm getting a little ahead of myself however after I get car blasted and I want to prime, has anybody used: PPG = DP40 DP 401 with DT 885 reducer ratio @ 2:1 : 20% for normal priming or 2: 1 : 25-30% for wetter prime?

rambos_ride

Ray wrote:

Thanks to you all who have made recommedations to date:

Going out to the shop where car is today to do a little more work; chrome shop is coming to pick up stainless and pot metal. I know I'm getting a little ahead of myself however after I get car blasted and I want to prime, has anybody used: PPG = DP40 DP 401 with DT 885 reducer ratio @ 2:1 : 20% for normal priming or 2: 1 : 25-30% for wetter prime?

You really want to use the PPG Wash/Etch Primer first then apply DP40 over the top for the basic primer coats. Then you'd follow up with k36 or some other type of fill primer for blocking and sanding to do body work up to the final coats.

I also wouldn't use anything but the standard reduction on any of the primers. Especially the Wash/Etch primer and the DP40. You don't want to build excessive coats of either material up more than recommended.

Again these types of primers are not meant fill imperfections or to use as a blocking primer - they prep and prepare the bare metal for additional topcoats.

Thats my experience and recommendations anyway!

[Deleted User]

rambos_ride wrote:

You really want to use the PPG Wash/Etch Primer first then apply DP40 over the top for the basic primer coats. Then you'd follow up with k36 or some other type of fill primer for blocking and sanding to do body work up to the final coats.



I also wouldn't use anything but the standard reduction on any of the primers. Especially the Wash/Etch primer and the DP40. You don't want to build excessive coats of either material up more than recommended.



Again these types of primers are not meant fill imperfections or to use as a blocking primer - they prep and prepare the bare metal for additional topcoats.



Thats my experience and recommendations anyway!

Thanks again Dan, I am going to follow your advise, also going to try your opening of hood and other recommendations on your web-site...



Chrome shop picked up all my stainless & pot metal...Removed two quarters, hood and trunk, doors and fenders ready to pop off, all bolts are loose...drive line also coming out tomorrow...Fortunately for me my mechanic is a real good friend with great disposition; without him I would have never attempted this job.



Ray

rambos_ride

Ray wrote:

Thanks again Dan, I am going to follow your advise, also going to try your opening of hood and other recommendations on your web-site...

Chrome shop picked up all my stainless & pot metal...Removed two quarters, hood and trunk, doors and fenders ready to pop off, all bolts are loose...drive line also coming out tomorrow...Fortunately for me my mechanic is a real good friend with great disposition; without him I would have never attempted this job.

Ray

Excellent progress!

Now...if they only went together as fast as they come apart!

If you need any more information on the hood lift setup just shoot me an email. The parts are off the car right now so I could get some better pictures and maybe make some templates depending on what you were going to try.

[Deleted User]

Yes, I am under the impression that it is a "hefty" sum... Jay ("jsrail") would know, as I believe he has purchased one of their stubs for his Hudson. I think it is around $2,600.00+, part of the reason I've 'hesitated' on it for one of my projects.

Yes, it was a bit, around $2450 if my memory serves me right. I probably should have spent a few dollars more and got the airbags, but I can change to them easily on my set-up. This included the power rack and the larger rotors. I think when you are on a budget (and I'm certainly on one!), its a matter of where a person wants to spend his money. The drivetrain and suspension are a major one for me. And unless someone out there is making dropped spindles for these (I've never seen them yet...though seems like they would sell a few if someone did), I thought this was money well spent for what I wanted....an "in the weeds" sled.

Jay

[Deleted User]

rambos_ride wrote:

Excellent progress!



Now...if they only went together as fast as they come apart!



If you need any more information on the hood lift setup just shoot me an email. The parts are off the car right now so I could get some better pictures and maybe make some templates depending on what you were going to try.

Good Morning Dan,



I frequently review your informative web-site and would appreciate recieving additional information on the hood lift setup. At your convenience it would be helpful recieving better pictures and templates which would reduce guess work for smoother attempted installation...Ironic, last night before leaving my mechanic friends shop, we looked at car and said the same thing you mentioned, removal of body parts etc., were moving pretty fast, however putting back will certainly require more time. Working on the car outside in Vegas heat isn't ideal that's reason I'm trying to get leg up before 100 degree weather arrives, then I'll have to slow down. My objective is too get all body parts removed and bring to blaster, then tow body for balance of blasting inside out, and under carriage, (car came from Idaho and haas heavy amount of undercoasting, which I've also been removing) get primed as per your PPG/DP 40 recommendations. During that time chrome & stainless wil be platted and professionally polished and John (mechanic friend) will start to measure suspenion etc to insure proper fabricaton for dics brakes, steering

engine drive drive etc., I realize it's not an over nighter but look forward to end results. In fact while it's still a little cool I'm going out to the car now...Thanks again and have a great Sunday...Ray

[Deleted User]

Ray wrote:

Good Morning Dan,



I frequently review your informative web-site and would appreciate recieving additional information on the hood lift setup. At your convenience it would be helpful recieving better pictures and templates which would reduce guess work for smoother attempted installation...Ironic, last night before leaving my mechanic friends shop, we looked at car and said the same thing you mentioned, removal of body parts etc., were moving pretty fast, however putting back will certainly require more time. Working on the car outside in Vegas heat isn't ideal that's reason I'm trying to get leg up before 100 degree weather arrives, then I'll have to slow down. My objective is too get all body parts removed and bring to blaster, then tow body for balance of blasting inside out, and under carriage, (car came from Idaho and haas heavy amount of undercoasting, which I've also been removing) get primed as per your PPG/DP 40 recommendations. During that time chrome & stainless wil be platted and professionally polished and John (mechanic friend) will start to measure suspenion etc to insure proper fabricaton for dics brakes, steering

engine drive drive etc., I realize it's not an over nighter but look forward to end results. In fact while it's still a little cool I'm going out to the car now...Thanks again and have a great Sunday...Ray

Yesterday, (Sunday) As mentioned I went to work on the car, we removed two front fenders, drive shaft, heater an heater controls, radio, part of dash board, front windows, emegency brake and regular brake cables, it got up to 98 degree and I was feeling it heat, I think I'm going to have to slow down.

If any member needs some of the parts I removed and will not be replacing, send me an email, thanks...Ray

[Deleted User]

Ray wrote:

Good Morning Dan,



I frequently review your informative web-site and would appreciate recieving additional information on the hood lift setup. At your convenience it would be helpful recieving better pictures and templates which would reduce guess work for smoother attempted installation...Ironic, last night before leaving my mechanic friends shop, we looked at car and said the same thing you mentioned, removal of body parts etc., were moving pretty fast, however putting back will certainly require more time. Working on the car outside in Vegas heat isn't ideal that's reason I'm trying to get leg up before 100 degree weather arrives, then I'll have to slow down. My objective is too get all body parts removed and bring to blaster, then tow body for balance of blasting inside out, and under carriage, (car came from Idaho and haas heavy amount of undercoasting, which I've also been removing) get primed as per your PPG/DP 40 recommendations. During that time chrome & stainless wil be platted and professionally polished and John (mechanic friend) will start to measure suspenion etc to insure proper fabricaton for dics brakes, steering

engine drive drive etc., I realize it's not an over nighter but look forward to end results. In fact while it's still a little cool I'm going out to the car now...Thanks again and have a great Sunday...Ray

Yesterday, (Sunday) As mentioned I went to work on the car, we removed two front fenders, drive shaft, heater an heater controls, radio, part of dash board, front windows, emegency brake and regular brake cables, it got up to 98 degree and I was feeling it heat, I think I'm going to have to slow down.

If any member needs some of the parts I removed and will not be replacing, send me an email, engine/trans sold already; offered at fair prices, thanks...Ray

Unknown

Just my 2 cents but, buy the engineered front clip from fatman. I bought a complete hub to hub dropped axle for my Essex and man it is worth every penny. New tie rod ends, new bushings, new spindles, bearings, discs, calipers, brake pads everything. And it fit right in where it was supposed to. Used the required vega steering box ect. And the piece of mind thing is priceless. When I am runnin at 70MPH on the highway, I will know that everything is as it should be. Alignment will be good, tire wear minimal. 2400 seems like a lot of money but the front clip should not be something that you skimp on. Besides all your sheetmetal will fit back on properly ect. etc. Try and source all the parts you will need seperately, add time for fabrication, add time for measuring etc. and also unless you can do it yourself, you are at the mercy of your mechanic friend who sounds like a great guy, but his free time is propably divided up pretty good and you will have to wait until he has time to do it. Take it from me, i speak from experience, I have all the parts sitting here to put my essex on the road, but need 2-3 full days of welding and fabbing( I am not a welder and do not want to practice on a frame). Buddys like to help but sometimes your schedule is different than theirs. If you buy the engineered front end, it will be worth it in the long run. The cost saving will also be minimal, and you can do alot of the install yourself when you want not when your buddys want or you can get a proffessional shop to do it and they will charge more in labour than it will be worth to buy the front end kit already.

just my opinion

cheers

Steve

hemiEssex

[Deleted User]

hemiEssex wrote:

Just my 2 cents but, buy the engineered front clip from fatman. I bought a complete hub to hub dropped axle for my Essex and man it is worth every penny. New tie rod ends, new bushings, new spindles, bearings, discs, calipers, brake pads everything. And it fit right in where it was supposed to. Used the required vega steering box ect. And the piece of mind thing is priceless. When I am runnin at 70MPH on the highway, I will know that everything is as it should be. Alignment will be good, tire wear minimal. 2400 seems like a lot of money but the front clip should not be something that you skimp on. Besides all your sheetmetal will fit back on properly ect. etc. Try and source all the parts you will need seperately, add time for fabrication, add time for measuring etc. and also unless you can do it yourself, you are at the mercy of your mechanic friend who sounds like a great guy, but his free time is propably divided up pretty good and you will have to wait until he has time to do it. Take it from me, i speak from experience, I have all the parts sitting here to put my essex on the road, but need 2-3 full days of welding and fabbing( I am not a welder and do not want to practice on a frame). Buddys like to help but sometimes your schedule is different than theirs. If you buy the engineered front end, it will be worth it in the long run. The cost saving will also be minimal, and you can do alot of the install yourself when you want not when your buddys want or you can get a proffessional shop to do it and they will charge more in labour than it will be worth to buy the front end kit already.

just my opinion

cheers

Steve

hemiEssex

Hi Steve,



Thanks for your comprehensive explanation, it's always helps receiving recommendations from those who have already experienced change over of costly/timely fabrication... I'm going to print out your comments (as I have done with other members helpful recommnendations) and discuss with Big John my excellent all around mechanic friend. Good luck on your project it's looking good already. Trying make sand blastering appointment today, also want to keep out of the hot weather (wish I could work from 4:00 - 9:00 AM)...



Ray

[Deleted User]

I think I have a source to select from several different S-10 years front clips,

and I remember some time ago, there were some posts and maybe even pictures of somebody who used this set-up? Appreciate if whoever posted can inform me where I can find information...Got the dashboard completely out of car, only have doors (will have to heat up bolts to remove) and rocket panels, taking some of the removed parts to be blasted 6:00 AM tomorrow morning.



Ray

[Deleted User]

Finally removed every piece on my car and had towed this evening to blasting shop, where car will be in booth for top/botom; interior/exterior.



Ray

[Deleted User]

Ray wrote:

Finally removed every piece on my car and had towed this evening to blasting shop, where car will be in booth for top/botom; interior/exterior.



Ray

Hope I'm not boring anyone, another long day of Hudsoning...all of of the parts I removed were blasted today, then I made three diferent trips to drop of at body shop...CaAr will be blasted tomorrow and then towed over to body shop, if interested I posted a couple of pictures.

[Deleted User]

Don't worry Ray, you're not boring anyone here! Wish I was working on mine right now. Thanks for the pics!



Jay

[Deleted User]

jsrail wrote:

Don't worry Ray, you're not boring anyone here! Wish I was working on mine right now. Thanks for the pics!



Jay

Thanks Jay,



Ray

ArtS

Ray wrote:

Hope I'm not boring anyone, another long day of Hudsoning...all of of the parts I removed were blasted today, then I made three diferent trips to drop of at body shop...CaAr will be blasted tomorrow and then towed over to body shop, if interested I posted a couple of pictures.

Hi Ray,



Just noticed that you have been posting to the street rod forum and am really impressed by the excellent progress on the 52 Coupe despite the brutal 100 degree LV heat. I will be watching and learning as you fill us in on more details and look forward to seeing it all come together. You are among the best and dedicated Hudsonites! Take care, stay cool, and keep that water bottle handy. Art

[Deleted User]

ArtS wrote:

Hi Ray,



Just noticed that you have been posting to the street rod forum and am really impressed by the excellent progress on the 52 Coupe despite the brutal 100 degree LV heat. I will be watching and learning as you fill us in on more details and look forward to seeing it all come together. You are among the best and dedicated Hudsonites! Take care, stay cool, and keep that water bottle handy. Art

Hi Art,



Thanks for your vote confedience; pleases me especially with professor/PHD like your good self...Although I'm a novice I continue to try and improve, at age 69 outside shop, swelting heat it isn't easy...I have been involved with many car restoratons, one of the better ones is the car you now have, (I should did more for that car) next was Black Beauty, however I never went as far as I've gone on this one.. Every nut, bolt, rivet has beeen removed, I'm now concerned about putting back together properly.

Your right about water, I took off today, with heat rash, sore muscle's etc., I stayed home and only took apart the sunvisior hardware (I got yesterday in trade for engine/trans) so I can replate brackets, get blasted and primed next week. Will keep you updated and thanks for advise and interest. If any member has plastic parts (bezel-ball)for center roof antenna, I'd be interested to purchase?



Ray

[Deleted User]

Little more blasting today (102 degree's in Vegas) should finish up tomorrow and will bring to body shop to be primed with DuPont K-2 yellow primer, ad some body work; happy to say the car is pretty straight, didn't have any bondo and relatively rust free. Like Dan said, easier taking apart, I'm now concerned about putting back together again.

[Deleted User]

During the long hot summer I didn't do anything to my car, I also was in in Europe (Croatia/Slovenia/Italy & Greece) for one month and recently returned to once again get started on '52 Hornet restoration. All sheet metal removed, most of the body work required completed and car has been primed in Dupont yellow. I would like to post some pictures, however, having a problem, maybe at a later date.



Ray

[Deleted User]

Cool Ray! Didn't do much to mine this summer either......but we have very similar summers! Nice progress though. Do you have a color picked out for the paint yet?

I'm trying to get the cash together for my chem dip, so hopefully soon that will get done and I'll start heavily back on mine.

Thanks for the pics and keep us updated!

Jay

[Deleted User]

Restoration has experienced a little delay, however the Chevy 350 crated engine and 700R4 trans completed and ready to install...Front end has been cut (see pictures) and Fatman front clip installed...All of of my stainless steel trim polished and if you look at pictures, bumper and other parts were preped today and will be plated Wednesday...If you look at door & rear rope handles they will be done in the morning, other shiny pieces were polished/preped and look good enough to install...I've been using this shop since I move from Los Angeles (use Faith Pating then) so happens owner wanted to sell and move to Sacramento...After negoitations I decided to buy the shop and will have my own polishing shop as additional hobby...Jason Cyrus Drew are going to move from Peoria, AZ and be my shop and office managers.



That's all for for now,



Ray

[Deleted User]

I saw your Coupe last weekend Ray and its looking good. I was surprised how easily that Fatman stub went on, Cyrus did a great job with it. Makes me even more anxious to get to mine. Understand Cyrus is taking the horn ring up for you, only recently got a date from my client on our LV meeting. I'll be up the 7th & 8th, so maybe I'll get enough of a break to meet you.

I wouldn't worry too much about delays....yours is going together much faster than most anybodies car I've seen.

Jay

[Deleted User]

Good Morning Jay,



Yes, I had Cyrus visit Vegas last week to discuss possible relocation of his wife and self for exploratory meeting of Chrome Zone hobby shop management I may acquire. I found him a nice house with three car garage; he's returning Thursday, he also brought some pictures of restoration progress. Jay, during your Vegas visit and if you have free time, by all means call me on following cell number (702) 285-8764...If it doesn't cause you any inconvenience, I'd appreciate receiving your cell to ask some business related questions...





Thanks,



Ray

[Deleted User]

Picked up some of my chrome today from Chrome Zone, you may be able to see how great these 55 year old parts turned out...Cyrus and his wife working real hard in putting out top of the line plalting and polishing. If you live close to Las Vegas and interested in making your Hudson or any classis car, look new again, I suggest you wait a 4-6 weeks and give Chrome Zone a call at (702) 367-8915



Ray

[Deleted User]

Ray, that trim is lookin' good!

That must have been Cyrus's Hudson I saw pass my shop on Saturday. You don't see many rat rod Hudsons in Vegas.....

[Deleted User]

If it was Red/Black yes it was Cyrus on the way to Chrome Zone shop located at Spring Mountain and Valley View...How is your Jet and I believe another Hudson project car you are restoring? Bill Albright just emailed me that he has sold a Commodore to a gentlleman named George Anderson living in Lasa Vegas, you know if it's one of Bill's restorations it must be a must car and I be interested in seeing when Bill delivers. where on Sahara is your shop located?



Best regards,



Ray