Synthetic Oil

[Deleted User]

Does anyone know how the synthetic oils compare with regular oils as far as cling is concerned. I guess what I am trying to say is how long, comparitively, does the film last when the engine is shut off. Curious how it would work in my 27 splasher. Of course all I would have to do is give my right arm and first born to be able to afford it. LOL



Blackie

[Deleted User]

well when this subject came up on a muscle car site that is real involved they put the question about using synthetic oil to all the major cam builders and they all said the same thing we don't recomend using synthetic oil with orur cams. you can take it from there

[Deleted User]

Synthetic oils have uniform molecular structures, meaning they're all the same size and shape. Organic oils have varying sizes of molecules, so some get through oiling passages easier than others. That is the synthetic advantage is its lubricating properties are better overall than organics. In my Cummins Dodge TD, I run Amsoil 15W-40. I change filters every 5K miles, and the oil itself every 15K or so. If I were running, say Rotella T organic, I'd be changing oil and filter every 6K, with a filter-only change in between. I also run it in my '66 Dodge 361 and '71 Dodge 318 without problems. On a fresh engine, you shouldn't have any problems with synthetics, even flatheads. I don't know if I'd run synthetics in an original 212 or a 308, but if the engine were weak in the oiling area, the type of oil wouldn't really matter at that point, anyway.



Frank, where was this about the cam manufacturers saying "no synthetics"??? That's certainly a first. The aftermarket cams can't be THAT different from OEM cams in construction. Any new Turbo engine, Vipers, any other HP engine made now, and all Diesel manufacturers put synthetics in their engines from new. So, what's special about aftermarket cams from stock cams, regardless of age, that they recommend what you've stated? I'd need to see that to believe that.

[Deleted User]

The statements I have seen from cam manufacturers like crane are do not use synthetics for the first 500-1000 miles so the parts break in properly after that you are good to go.

Geoff

I guess the question about synthetics as far as out splash-fed engines is concered, is their "Stickiness". Lots of oils are specifically designed for such things as overhead cam protection, and designed to cling to the moving parts. This could adversely affect the flow of oil for instance through the main bearing gutters and feed holes. I don't know, having never used them, but would certainly like to hear specific information about this aspect.

Geoff.

Unknown

Hot Rod Magazine had an article in a recent issue about cam failure. It was related to additives in engine oil, which are being phased out (ZDDP was the one in question, it is a zinc compound) due to their incompatability with some engine sensors, which becomes an issue when blow-by starts to occur in older engines. The article stated one of the few oils to still contain this additive was Rotella 15W-40, a diesel engine oil. Made for some interesting reading.

Mike

[Deleted User]

You can contact Amsoil from their website. They respond promptly, and I trust their advice.

[Deleted User]

my mistake it was for flat tappet cams. here is the thread

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Oil topics/threads always come down to what someone thinks is beter. Now all of those running synthetic oils, Do you have a roller or flat tappet cam? Two years ago I sat down and called every cam company I could think of (crower, comp, crane, lunati, isky, etc...) every one of them said "we do not recommend running synthetic oil with flat tappet cams". Since then I don't run synthetic oils in my flat tappet engines. I do run Mobil one in my truck (roller cam).



Valvoline Racing oil in the grey bottle does have zinc. This is why I run it in my hot rod. Flat tappet cams need zinc. There is more to oil than being slippery, it also needs to cushion, this is where the zinc comes into play.



I would like to know if anyone has gotten, the "OK" from a cam company to run synthetic with a flat tappet cam?

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dwardo99

I run it exclusively in my Norton motorcycle, which has stronger valve springs and a more radical grind than any Hudson, not to mention it turns much faster and runs much hotter. I never find a speck of fluff on the magnetic drain plug. I'm not worried about it. There is a slight radius to the lifters but they are not roller.

[Deleted User]

I used to think oil was oil, I am not so sure these days. Consumer reports stated that as long as the oil contained the "certified for gasoline engines" statement from the American Petrolium Institute, they could find no difference between brands on the wear of an engine. The problem is that the documentation with my new pickup states that I must use synthetic 5W20 oil or risk voiding the warranty.

kamzack

I would encourage all interested in synthetics vs petroleum base oils to take a look at Lubrication Engineers website:www.le-inc.com. There you will find the motivating factor for all the hype about syn. oils-PROFIT. LE manufacures the finest lubricants available period and will out perform any and all synthetics. They have documentation to back it up. It's a high performance line and is formulated work in both gas and diesel applications,engine oils that is, and is a long drain oil. Something they innovated back in the fifties. Typical drains are 25k in gas and 100k in diesels. I've been a part of a fleet of Macks that averaged 120k with filters @10k. LE's oils has the greatest film strenght and best lubricity in the industry. It is ideal for the vehicle that sits for long period,because of one of their additives bonds and coats evrything thus reducing the occurance of hydrolysis that affects bearing materials. It is ideal for the vehicle that runs 24/7. Take a look or call 1-800-537-7683. I'm not a part of the company but someone who believes if you make an invest in a machine, you should invest in the best oil and pm program and LE's lubricants work.

Kim Kramer

[Deleted User]

My Cummins crankcase and filter together are a 14-quart oil change. I pay right at $60.00 for the oil and filter, and change both at 15K miles. A Rotella-T change is $34.00 plus the filter. I get triple the mileage on the synthetic than I did off the organic oil, so instead of over $100.00 for organic changes, I spend $60.00 for the synthetic over the same time span, saving $40.00 with the Amsoil. I'm quite happy with the synthetics, since I spend less per change overall, and I don't have the extra 25 quarts of oil to dispose of, otherwise.



I've sent for the LE info, but from what I've seen so far, Amsoil is the product to beat.