Leaf Removal

[Deleted User]

Alright, another question folks. I have decided to go with either a Ford 9" or 8.8" solid rear axle w/ disc brakes and have it narrowed to the correct width. I may use an airbag mounted to the leaf pack for lowering purposes as a starter method (ultimately a triangulated 4 link will be in the works). I just need to make I can use the same airbags on the 4 link later.

So how many and which leaves should I remove? I can't see them now as the leaf packs are all wrapped and undercoated!

And a side thought...........when I go with the 4 link, should I use chrome or powder coated arms? Its gonna be a daily driver and see alot of miles, so my thinking is the chrome would end up looking bad, and therefore, not worth the extra money. If its powder coated they won't looks so bad after awhile?

Oh, if only I could win the Powerball!

Jay

hornet53

I had three leaves on one side break on my hornet a while back. That looked pretty good. Problem lies with the panhard bar though. I put 3 inch blocks under mine and it shifted the rearend over so far that the car tried to drive sideways down the road. Only thing I could figure out is to fabricate an adjustable panhard. Won't have that problem with the 4-link though.

I would start with 2 leaves to begin with, one medium long and one medium short.

[Deleted User]

Can't say as I've ever seen leaf springs with airbags - would be interesting to see how it is set up.

Rick, here's the site on these airbags:

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/airoverleaf.asp

And here's the page on their 4-link weld on set up:

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/air4link.asp

No bags in that price but seems to be a decent set up without having to weld each piece of each bracket, should save on welding time.

Any thoughts?

Jay

TwinH

Yes,although in the typical airbag over leafspring install the main leaf functions as the

locating member for the rear axle(and not much else), there is nothing to deal with

axle wind up from a hp engine. I usually see these setups on younger kids vehicles as

a quick(and dirty) way to get them on the ground until they can; A:afford a proper 3

or four link setup. or B:They destroy the vehicle. Sadly most never make it to the3/4

link stage. The other issue with the Hudson is the panhard bar which would need to

be modified to be close to level at your proposed new ride height and have a adjustment on one end to allow you to center the axle in the wheel tubs.

As you may guess,I not a fan of the air over leaf setup as I see it as a cheapshot

at best and unsafe at worst. Take your time to build a 3 or 4 link in paint or

powdercoat and have some peace of mind.

[Deleted User]

I also am concerned that the bag over leaf seems like a quick fix. I am thinking more towards the triangulated 4-link as you would not need a panhard bar. I would if I went with a parallel 4-link. And your right Rick and I should have said polished rather than chrome.



Jay

rambos_ride

jsrail wrote:

I also am concerned that the bag over leaf seems like a quick fix. I am thinking more towards the triangulated 4-link as you would not need a panhard bar. I would if I went with a parallel 4-link. And your right Rick and I should have said polished rather than chrome.

Jay

Now that you've gone and added another years worth of work and $2500.00 and change... maybe we'll see ya on the road sometime in the Summer of 2009-2010?? Heck maybe you can just get it running for one of your kids 16th birthdays <insert drum sound here> :eek:

(Doohhhhh! Don't take it too pesonal it's meant in fun!)

[Deleted User]

rambos_ride wrote:

Now that you've gone and added another years worth of work and $2500.00 and change... maybe we'll see ya on the road sometime in the Summer of 2009-2010?? Heck maybe you can just get it running for one of your kids 16th birthdays <insert drum sound here> :eek:

(Doohhhhh! Don't take it too pesonal it's meant in fun!)

Actually, I've got a guy looking into a hydrogen fuel cell set-up which should take me to 2030!

Jay :-)

[Deleted User]

I also would prefer the triangulated 4-link, for the same reason. Did you happen to take a look at the 3-link (for S10 pickups)? Looks interesting, if it could be made to work.
As far as chrome vs. stainless - It is my understanding that the chroming process weakens the metal, and thus is unacceptable for these type of parts - my reasoning for the emphasis on stainless.

Also: Have you looked at the Ford explorer's IRS (newer Explorers)? Do you think it could be made to work in a custom application of this type? I'm not sure of the width...

Rick, that 3-link does look intriguing. We should probably call them and see what measurements they will give us. It does mean some cutting into the trunk pan and maybe the wheel tubs I think, but does say it will get it low! And can it be made to fit any rear end?

I was looking at an article that I googled on the new 2002 Ford Explorer, which it seems, was the first year of their IRS system.

http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/clor/explorer_mountaineer/02.ford-mercury.explorer-mountaineer.fl.html

They don't say how wide it is though, but say the track width is 2.5" wider than the prior SUV. Looks like an awful lot of work and I'm not sure how it would look aesthetically (did I get that spelling right?). And how much headache is using set ups designed for ABS? Can you just plug them off? (I admit to not knowing much about ABS) I still like the triangulated 4 link for its simplicity and cleaness, but would like to know more about that 3 link and how its lowering capability compares to a 4 link. And how well it would stand up in a heavier car.

But I can tell you, I'm not mounting 2 huge tanks like that S-10 is showing! I'll find somewhere to build custom tanks, we got pretty creative building airtanks on our 4 wheel drives (in bumpers, roll cages, etc.)!

Jay

rambos_ride

jsrail wrote:

Actually, I've got a guy looking into a hydrogen fuel cell set-up which should take me to 2030!

Jay :-)

Now yer talkin! Kick the v8 in when water(h2o) is not doing it for ya!

rambos_ride

jsrail wrote:

Rick, I wouldn't be using them if they didn't have things like speedbumps and my friveway! lol

Jay

Although I've been working cars all my life the last 20 odd years I have been mostly into 4x4's CJ5's in particular - up until Sep '04 when I bought the 49 and came back to my hot rod roots!

This "low as you can go" stuff is still foreign to me cause I've been wanting to go higher for so long!

So the real problem in the rear is the panhard bar wanting to shift the assembly over the lower you want to go ...so even my hypothetical rear springs having a 2" lower arc would necessitate a mod to the panhard bar. Because I would think even 2" could be a real issue given tire clearances - or lack of them in these cars!

Even blocking the axel would result in the same condition...so anyone got some good ideas on making the mod to the panhard bar?

[Deleted User]

Dan, I think you'd have to build an adjustable panhard. Eye bushing on one end and threaded adjustment on the other (heim joint?) with a locking nut. Probably have to check the adjustment ever so often.

I'm not sure but maybe you could just disconnect one end of the panhard, get the car to ride height, center the axle, and just bend the panhard in a vise enough to where the axle is center. It seems to me that should take care of it if you can get the rear end close to the original width. And maybe the angled springs will assist in keeping the axle centered.

I think if you can shortened the panhard (by bending it a little bit) that would take care of any issue, since I believe you are using leaf springs? I think the panhard is more of an issue if you are using a parallel 4 link has the axle will move back and forth unless you have a panhard to keep it centered. I also think it was more of an issue on linked axles on offroad vehicles because of the extreme amount of suspension travel which could create major shifting of the axle from center. You should not have so much travel on your '49 I would think.

Just some thoughts.

Jay :-)

TwinH

You know you don't see many parallel leaf rear suspensions with a panhard bar.

Can't remember seeing another except for my stepdown. First i'd address the frame

and axle mounts. Whatever you need to get those points close to level at ride height.

Then say a 3/4" pice of DOM tubing with one stationary end (bushing or heim joint).

Threaded tubing adapter on the other end and same type of end(for adjustment).

Bend to fit,paint to match.



Jay, head on over to www.suicidedoors.com ,lots of components and ideas. I've

dealt with these guys before and they've always shot straight with me.