Instrument cluster

464Saloon

Suprisingly I didn't get alot of input on the 12v conversion so I guess not many have done it. Well I now have my Instrument cluster out of my 54 ( not a fun project) to check over wiring and fix it up a little. The speedo is questionable at best, the clock doesn't work and the general appearance is just tired. What do guys all do to fix these up. Is there someone who restores them, can individual parts be redone or am I on my own to discover what might be out there?

Unknown

Why dont you look into a 6 volt reducer through Ron Francis wiring? I know they have reducer that will run more then one accessory off of a single reducer. The clock probally could be fixed or convert it to quartz, just buy another clock and transplant all the guts. What ever you do dont put a modern dash in there or stick a bunch of aluminum aftermarket digital guages, it just ruins the look of what really is a nice looking dash



Just my .02 cents



Brent

Jon B

There are speedometer restoration shops out there, though I think they concentrate on the 'guts' of the speedometer, not the aesthetics. (To find them, go to www.hemmings.com and look under "Services", for speedometer repair shops).



Likewise, you will find a listing of electric clock repair companies in Hemmings. (If you're even a little bit mechanically minded, however, you can probably get yours running. Lube the clock works, and file the points that close the 'winding' circuit, which clicks on every 4-5 minutes.)



If the APPEARANCE of your dash cluster is bad, you might want to simply look for a better dash cluster out there. You can send out some postcards / e-mail to various Hudson parts vendors in the WTN, you can shop Ebay, or you can get out to your nearest local, regional or national Hudson meet and wander through their flea market.

hudsonguy

464,



I'm guessing more people have made the conversion to 12V than it appears. It seems like the majority of them (at least the stepdowns) that are driven to the Nationals every year are 12V. Some use 12V generators, but most seem to be using the GM-style one wire alternator, which is what I've done to my '49.



Although there are still a fair number of people using 6V, or 8V, or 12V start/6V run, etc. Most of the higher end coupes and convertibles that compete in concours shows will be stock 6v, for obvious reasons.



For what it's worth, and I'm certainly a Hudson rookie, what I like best about 12V is the easier starting, brighter lights, being able to add on A/C, cruise, stereos, etc., plus the fact an alternator is charging at virtually all speeds. A generator only starts to charge above 25 mph, or so. Possibly most important, however, is that the wire harnesses only have to carry half the amperege when they're used with 12V systems. Many car fires have started from hi-amp 6V wires not being insulated where they're supposed to.



The alternator conversion is quite simple. You just have to make a bracket, but it's a pretty simple part, so that's not too difficult. You can even use the stock 5/8" wide belt, albeit a longer one, by simply using your Hudson pulley on the GM alternator. Or you can buy a new aftermarket wide pulley for about $10, at various 'street rod parts' outlets.



I'm using resistors in my heater and overdrive solenoid circuits.



You can either buy a used clock or speedo (which are pretty readily available on ebay, etc.), or go the more expensive route and have the speedo cleaned/lubed, as well as the clock converted to 12V quartz. Not cheap, but then, at least you've got 'like new' units when you're done.

Walt-LA

I was going to say iry the Clock Doc, but their website is not coming up. May be gone. They converted to quarts for about $ 250, would fix and auto wind for a hundred. A no. of people do gauges. Try Googling under instrument repair/rennovation... Walt-LA

Walt-LA

Here's one that does speedo and clocks. Never tried them. Walt-LA



http://dandmrestoration.home.mindspring.com/

464Saloon

I am debating whether to use resistors or a voltage drop unit. Seem to be getting mixed info on this. Just spoke with one of our local chapters guru's and he said I don't need to drop the voltage to the OD solenoid. A tranny buddy of mine said the same thing. Now that I have the cluster out, I am just going to go ahead and just do it. I will know what works and what doesn't when it all goes together right.

kamzack

Speaking of Ron Francis, if you're interested in rewireing or replacing existing harness, Ron's company is one of a nymber of choices out there. Having used several of Ron's harnesses I can state they are top notch, That is if you don't mind plastic wrapped wires. All you do is submit your vehicle and accessories and it will be custom made for your Hudson, and labeled as to what goes where. Harnesses are serial numbered and if you have a electical problem, you can call thier hotlone and they pull up your harness up and walk you through the fix. Great customer support. And obviously, there are oem type harensses out there as well. I printed out Kem Cates 12volt conversion steps and it's very simple to follow. Thanks letting for me respond.

PS; I know Ron Francis is a Street rod oriented company, but they are one of the oldest and most experienced in this type of industry.



Kim Kramer

MikeWA

I suspect one of the reasons for the paltry response to the conversion questions is that many of us bought our Hudsons already converted, so even though there are a lot of 12 volt setups out there, many of the owners really don't know much about them, except that they seem to work fine. I guess if I have a problem, I will have to figure mine out, but it seems I have plenty to keep me occupied on the car until that time. And I've always subscribed to the notion, "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak up and remove all doubt."

[Deleted User]

I converted my 54 coupe to 12 volt and have had no problems. Change the coil and all of the light bulbs to 12 volt. I did not have to change anything about the gauges, they have a constant voltage regulator that maintains 8 volts or less to the gauges, and that is well within the range needed for the gauges. I used a Ford Alternator and Voltage regulator, then used bushings and the original Generator bracket to mount the Alternator in the original position. Oh Yeah change the turn signal blinker to 12 Volt.

The horns are louder and the heater motor blows faster.

Unknown

I've removed and repaired a couple of clocks in my cars and the problem was dirty points that you need to file clean [very carefully I might add] and then clean the workings. Use a spray cleaner for a computer or something similar. Dont lube or the oily residue will just collect dust and gum up the works. As for the voltage it doesn't matter what voltage the clock gets as it rewinds in a split second and then the coil is out of the circuit. The clock actually runs on springs.

bob ward

If you are running on 12V and need to run 1 or 2 items on 6V, definitely use an electronic voltage dropper. 20 years ago when such items were not readily available, cheap or reliable you would have used resistors, but today, use a voltage dropper.



A consideration with the overdrive solenoid is that it may overheat on 12V, you may need to connect it to 12V on the bench and see how it behaves. I'm not sure what the real figures are, but for instance if the solenoid draws 10W on 6V it will draw 40W on 12V.



As for the clock, I don't know how well this translates to the smaller 54 clock, but on my 53 a previous owner has siliconed a battery clock movement onto the rear of the clock case and it runs off an AA battery. Works well too, even with the car battery disconnected.