dash woodgraining

[Deleted User]

OK, I know there has been a post or two one this, but I can't find it!!! I spoke of the how-to's of woodgraining metal dashes, without buying someone's book to find out. Anyone?

[Deleted User]

66patrick66 wrote:

OK, I know there has been a post or two one this, but I can't find it!!! I spoke of the how-to's of woodgraining metal dashes, without buying someone's book to find out. Anyone?

Pat



Look here several options...



http://members.aol.com/stepdown53/STEPDOWNRESTORATIONAIDS.html#INTERIOR

[Deleted User]

Heart_Of_Texas wrote:

Pat



Look here several options...



http://members.aol.com/stepdown53/STEPDOWNRESTORATIONAIDS.html#INTERIOR

HOW TO WOOD GRAIN YOUR HUDSON

The following information was presented by

Dr. Wendell Spreadbury

at the 1999 Big Country Regional Meet Shreveport La.

TOOLS:

Brushes, newspaper, Zar graining tool, cotton balls, sponges, toothpicks, etc

MATERIALS:



Artist OIL paint in tubes (NOT ACRYLICS), base coat laquer clear coat laquer Mineral spirits, newspaper, rags, cardboard (to lay work upon), sand paper, rough and 2000 grit, hand cleaner.



STEPS FOR WOOD GRAINING:



1) Find base coat correct color, probably under edge somewhere

2) Buy base coat in lacquer

3) Check piece to be grained for damage/dents and repair where necessary

4) Check pieces for extra non-stock holes and fill them with proper material

5) Sand blast or otherwise remove rust and old paint/surface front and back

6) Prime piece with/and base coat

7) Fill any rust or damage pits

8) Install glove box door on dash (in order that wood grain will match design)

9) Mask back of glove box door

10) Apply Artist OIL paint by deep and thorough hand rubbing on metal

11) Work oil paint well but not too thickly

12) Apply to lower dash, in and around glove box door BUT NOT to back of door

13) Use newspaper to wipe off excess oil paint and actually do some graining with newspaper

14) Produce wood grain with:



- newspaper - wipe grain into work

- toothpick short jabs with picks make a pattern

- cotton balls make a "burled" pattern with short j abs/twists/turns

- Zar graining tool .... make "cathedrals" by roll & drag with peak first

- soft wet sponge ... make alternate "burled" pattern-jab/twist/tum

- jagged/cut/short paint brush .... hard short strokes



15) Let oil paint dry 24 hours

16) If satisfied with grain, Then spray EIGHT coats of clear lacquer with 15 minute wait between each coat

17) After clear coat painting, wait TWO WEEKS for curing of piece

18) Sand with 2000 grit paper (produces a while residue)

19) Apply a light POLISH NOT WAX

20) Let cure THREE MONTHS then wax if desired

Unknown

Just reading the instructions made me tired:eek: How did auto manufacturers knock this stuff out in the old days?

[Deleted User]

Dave53-7C wrote:

Just reading the instructions made me tired:eek: How did auto manufacturers knock this stuff out in the old days?

Immigrant workers.

Unknown

royer wrote:

Immigrant workers.

Thanks, I'll check with the guys who cut the lawn.

Unknown

Dave53-7C wrote:

Thanks, I'll check with the guys who cut the lawn.

You made me laugh so hard that I cried with that one.

Bob

[Deleted User]

Some how I know the answer to this. Hudson used a 3-M product called Dinoc(might not be spelled correctly) which is no longer available (unless someone has a stock of old supplies) from 3-M. I was at the Zephyrhills swap meet in Feb and a company sells a kit to do the woodgraining. Their web site is www.woodgraining.com. Hope this is of some use. -- jim blakeley

[Deleted User]

There is some good info in this thread:



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5583&highlight=rubber+roller

Unknown

Swasp76063 wrote:

You made me laugh so hard that I cried with that one.



Bob

Dry those tears or you won't be able to read my report on how well the lawn service guys did at wood graining

Jon B

Originally Hudson applied the pre-printed woodgrain applique to a flat sheet of sheet metal. Then, in several steps, the metal was formed and punched until the dashboard was finished. The WTN ran some factory photos of a Step-Down dashboard from start to finish, several years ago.



Patrick, since your dashboard is welded to the car, you will have to paint and woodgrain most of it right in the car. I did, in my '37, using a Pre-Val type sprayer (you can mix the paint and put it in the sprayer yourself). It's not that hard, except you had better mask off stuff pretty well! The removable dash panels, of course, you can take into the house and work on. Don't forget to finish up with a nice glossy clear coat of urethane or other coating, to seal it all in and give it that final, professional, look. The eye sees the glossy finish and the brain says, 'original dashboard' while neatly disregarding the quality of the woodgraining beneath!

[Deleted User]

Sounds pretty good! All I have to do is the dash doors. The PO did the hard work on the dash itself. I painted the window surrounds a light tan, rather than woodgraining them. It contrasts the upholstery very nicely.



Now, if I can figure out how to make the headlight lenses stay put, I'll be able to drive it legally!

Jon B

Patrick, to make the headlight lenses stay put you need the special 1937 spring at the bottom, that allows you to put a retaining bolt into the bottom of the headlight bucket (the bolt engages the steel ear that's riveted to the bottom edge of your silvered reflector). Duke Marley of N.C. has them for sale. See your roster for his address.