Safe Jackstand Points

[Deleted User]

Is there recommended jackstand points for a 50 Pacemaker Deluxe?



I am getting ready to put it up for the winter so some work can get done on parts that I will take off. Tires and wheels for one.



So on what points of the frame is the safest to place the jack stands? I am using 6 ton stands.



Please refer to them as Passenger/Driver side and inches from the front end of the fram and back end of the frame.



When I do the balance points based on standard math (weight on each wheel, length of car, width of car) the points are NOT on the frame.



I want to put it up safely.:)

hudsonguy

I'm just as curious as you on what others recommend, but for what it's worth, this is how I've been doing it for several winters now.



I also use big, beefy 6 ton stands. On the rear, I place them (stand in lowest position) on the frame near the forward anchor point of the leaf springs, in front of the rear axle. There's a little triangular opening next to the flat spots I use. On the front, (stands in much higher position) I put them on each sub-frame rail, approximately even with the radiator. This has worked well for me, and you can do some pretty major mechanical repairs with pretty good access everywhere.



My next door neighbor was killed several years ago after the stock car he was changing a rear axle in rolled off the jack stands. It bothered me so much, I couldn't even crawl under a car for a long while. So I always take my time and MAKE SURE everything is rock solid before going underneath.

[Deleted User]

hudsonguy wrote:

I'm just as curious as you on what others recommend, but for what it's worth, this is how I've been doing it for several winters now.



I also use big, beefy 6 ton stands. On the rear, I place them (stand in lowest position) on the frame near the forward anchor point of the leaf springs, in front of the rear axle. There's a little triangular opening next to the flat spots I use. On the front, (stands in much higher position) I put them on each sub-frame rail, approximately even with the radiator. This has worked well for me, and you can do some pretty major mechanical repairs with pretty good access everywhere.



My next door neighbor was killed several years ago after the stock car he was changing a rear axle in rolled off the jack stands. It bothered me so much, I couldn't even crawl under a car for a long while. So I always take my time and MAKE SURE everything is rock solid before going underneath.

My wife is very concerned as well for the same reasons.



The points you mentioned seem reasonable. For what I will be doing, they work well. Back end would need to be raised for a little while when I drop the tank. Front end would be down when that happens.



Thanks.

Unknown

After getting a car on jack stands, place some old tires or large blocks of wood in stratigic locations (each brake drum for example) beneath it. In the event the car were to fall, you'd have some protection against damage and personl injury.

[Deleted User]

Dave53-7C wrote:

After getting a car on jack stands, place some old tires or large blocks of wood in stratigic locations (each brake drum for example) beneath it. In the event the car were to fall, you'd have some protection against damage and personl injury.

Already have 4x4 pyramids for each. It will not be up long each time. Mostly for working. When new tires get in and wheels are done, it will be back on the ground.

rambos_ride

I had mine on stands for months on end fitting the engine and transmission, replacing the trunk pan, and scraping the undercoating off.

REAR PLACEMENT

Unfortunately I cannot find a good picture but just forward of the rear axel housing where the inner frame rail bends down and meets the outer frame rail is where I placed my stands on each side.

FRONT PLACEMENT

In the front I chose the point where the front body crossmember intersects with the front subframe




KEY SAFETY FEATURE!

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS LEVEL AND THE STANDS ARE LEVEL TO THE GROUND!

Putting Stands or other blocks under the suspension won't help in the case of a fall as the suspension will move. After making sure the car and stands are level I physically try and get the car to move on the stands in all directions - if its stable the only thing that would bring it down would be an earthquake!

junkcarfann

One thing I notice in the first picture above is that the jackstand is metal on metal. In the last picture the jackstand on the right of the picture is metal on metal.



I used to work for a heavy machinery rigger, and metal on metal is a MAJOR no-no in that business. If the weight is not exactly at 90 degrees to the jackstand, it can slip "like ice", as my boss used to say.



Always put a piece of wood between the jackstand and the frame. Riggers carry large supplies of various sizes of wood for that purpose



The weight crushes the wood a bit, and prevents it from slipping.



ps--this is not necessary when the jackstand pillar is mating properly with something that is round such as the rear axle housing.

[Deleted User]

we always try and get the stands to "lock in". ie theres going to be something for it to stop on if things start sliding. been working under heavy trucks, trailers and machinery for over 5 years now and im still here cos of these practices

Unknown

junkcarfann wrote:

One thing I notice in the first picture above is that the jackstand is metal on metal. In the last picture the jackstand on the right of the picture is metal on metal.



I used to work for a heavy machinery rigger, and metal on metal is a MAJOR no-no in that business. If the weight is not exactly at 90 degrees to the jackstand, it can slip "like ice", as my boss used to say.



Always put a piece of wood between the jackstand and the frame. Riggers carry large supplies of various sizes of wood for that purpose



The weight crushes the wood a bit, and prevents it from slipping.



ps--this is not necessary when the jackstand pillar is mating properly with something that is round such as the rear axle housing.

Although many good suggestions have been presented, this makes good sense. Also, if a car were to fall, I'd rather have brake drums and suspension hit wood or rubber and bounce a bit rather than slam flat onto concrete.

[Deleted User]

When I have my car on stands, and am working under it I always place a JACK under there too. I was very lucky, when working on a Vega wagon about 15 years ago. The leg on one of the stands buckled and let the other stands shift. Fortunately the other stands did not collapse completely, and I was not hurt, but I was trapped under the car for about a half hour. I could not move either way. My wife happened to look out the back door and saw my legs sticking out from under the car. Never rely on the stands alone! Like I said, I use a jack, It may be a little inconvenient, But I'll take inconvenience to dead anytime.
Oh, Yeah I usually put the stands where the X member meets the front hangers for the rear spring, and where it comes in behind the front wheel.
Bob

Uncle Josh

I built some 2-piece ramps some years ago. The main piece uses 2x10s and 2x4s cribbed and an end 2x4 to prevent roll off. It's about 18 in long.



The ramp is similar and overlaps the main piece by an inch, is about 2 ft long, and can be removed for access after the car is either driven on them, or not used if jacked up and the main piece slid under the wheels. Gets the car a foot off the ground for most things and still sits on the wheels which are locked in gear and/or by e-brake and chocked.



If you need to work on a wheel, replace a main piece with a jackstand and use the main piece for safety blocking under the frame.



Friend of mine was killed when a jacked-up Scout fell on him. Always double or triple block so there's no way it can get down until you're ready.

SamJ

BJ__TN wrote: »

When I have my car on stands, and am working under it I always place a JACK under there too.



My '40 has lots of frame to get under, but living in earthquake country like I do means always having the floor jack under the car, preferable in the middle somewhere. Having a an earthquake (or slipshod bracing) drop a Hudson on you could dampen your enthusiasm for the hobby. :cool:

hudsonguy

I also leave the floor jack under the center lifting point (cross-member in front, differential in rear) all snugged up and ready to lift in the event someone would need to do this. Unfortunately though, sometimes, depending on what you're repairing, you can't do this because of the limited access.



As I get older I'm more and more aware of my safety and slow down a little and be certain of things, because where I live there's not a lot of chance of anyone nearby to help out in the event of an emergency, so I figure I'm pretty much going to have to rescue myself. I live in the country and my garage is a distance from the house, and certainly out of earshot of anybody.



So whether I'm working under my cars, or climbing into my tree stand, or climbing on the top of the 28' camper I'm rebuilding at the moment, or cutting down big oak trees...jeez, it's probably a good thing my 9 to 5 is in an office building!