Piston and connecting rod removal 1928 Essex

mr_steam

On my 28 RS coupe, when I put it to bed last Fall it had developed a slight knock in the engine.  I assumed the rods needed to be checked for wear and remove shims as needed.  I crawled underneath with my torque wrench, trouble light and plastigauge after I got the pans off and checked them all, good clearance, but the last one #6 the babbit has over heated at some point and started to melt out.  It will need to be re-babbited and machined.  Its been awhile since I rebuilt the engine and can't remember other than the pistons were put in from the bottom.  Can they be removed without pulling the engine or crankshaft? 

Geoff

Yes, remove No. 4 counterweight, and the bearing cap, and wriggle the rod and piston down past the crank.   When re-installing, carefully insert the piston, with rings on, and hold up against the chamfer at the bottom of the cylinder,  You may have to guide the rings into the chamfer with your fingers.  Then wobble the rod back and forth with upward pressure (not sideways) and you can carefully push the piston up into the cylinder.  The chamfer compresses the rings as they go up.  Good luck.

mr_steam

Thanks Geoff.  Now off to try and get the rod redone.
Cheers

mr_steam

OK, got the rod out and preparing for it to be re-babbitted next week. One thing I noticed when I was checking all the other rods is that there is no oil groove in the cap and I know the Ford T didn't have them either, but does the Essex need grooves?  If so, now would be the time to Dremel them in.

Geoff

No oil groove in the rod, but very definitely in  the cap, must have.

mr_steam

What would be the best, a - or X ?
Thanks

Geoff

A straight groove is best, leaves more bearing material, and the oil will squish out between the shims to circulate.