1948 Commodore project update: first start-up & several questions for the experienced Husdon folks..

tylerwatts

Hello Hudsonites! I joined the forum Tuesday, having just acquired my first Hudson, a '48 Commodore. Today I was able to spend significant time in the garage with her, getting to know this beautiful machine.

First: the good news: shefired right up after installing new plugs, coil, and condenser, cleaning and gapping the points, and setting up a bypass gravity fuel feed with fresh gas. I did run it on 12 volts, as I'm planning on installing an alternator and doing a full 12 volt conversion. Don't worry--I disconnected the feed wire from the starter to the ignition switch, so I did not supply 12v to any original equipment; I created an entirely new ignition circuit with a switch mounted under the hood--see first picture. I will of course install voltage reducers to the fuel gauge and heater motor. 
Really bad news: As Jon B alerted me in a reply to my introduction post, yep, the rust-out in the rear fender wells pretty much took out the outer frame rails. I would greatly appreciate advice on repairing this--I know it's pretty important given that it's structural. Does anyone supply fabricated repair sections? I am thinking about trying to find some properly-sized steel box channel (or creating some from angles) and welding in repair pieces, but I'd love some tips from anyone who's "been there, done that!"


Semi-bad news: I'm pretty sure this tie rod (right side) is not supposed to have this bend in it! Indeed, I noticed the car had severe toe-out when loading it up, and this explains that. Again, are new tie-rod ends available? Will I need to find a parts car for a donor replacement? Is it possible/ worthwhile to attempt straightening it?


Other: I began taking apart the brake system in order to begin a total rebuild. Fortunately, I just won an eBay auction for NOS master cylinder and all 4 wheel cylinders, as a lot, for just $76! Now I just need to find hoses (I will bend my own replacement lines as needed). I was able to get the front wheel cylinders out easily--very happy to see it's a Bendix-style system! I have the inferior (and much more expensive parts-wise) Huck system in my Chevy Fleetlines. One question for the experts here: how do the rear drums come off? I have never seen rear drums that appear to be integral with the hub/ bearing.

Also, I know this vehicle has the failsafe mechanical brakes in addition to the hydraulic service brakes. Any tips on getting those set up/ adjusted when I'm ready to put the brakes back together?

I'll stop with the questions for now--don't want to be too greedy with yous guys' expertise! Here are a few more pics of the project in the garage, on stand jacks ready for the overhaul to  commence! 

Thanks in advance!

Tyler
Big Rapids, MI

cchancel

Brake hoses are available at NAPA (part# 11149).  The same hose works for the 2 front and 1 rear.

Rear drums need a hub-puller like the attached picture.  Back off the brake pads using the brake spoon, remove the nut and washer in the center of the hub, replace the nut loosely, attach puller, and tighten.  When the hub releases it will be loud like a gun shot.  The nut will prevent it from jumping into your lap. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE PULLER!  There is a block on the other end of the axle shaft that can shatter if maltreated.

I don't know about fabricators but many vendors have parts cars with good metal:  https://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/HUDSON%20PARTS%20SOURCES%20FOR%20STEPDOWNS.html

The above website has all the how-tos and info you will need to start.

Good luck.

Jon B

Tyler,

Tie rod ends are readily available, here are some reasonably-priced ones on Ebay at the moment:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOOG-Outer-Tie-Rod-Ends-for-HUDSON-1948-1954-ES-147R-49-50-51-52-53/173873896075?hash=item287bb11a8b:g:p-EAAOSw~PVctJMF

These are only $14-15, yet some are listed as high as $98, so please, please shop around or let us know if some prices seem unreasonably high to you.  Do not just hand over the money, because Hudson chassis stuff tends to be reasonably priced.  As far as I know you can get the brake stuff new, including the hoses, but some StepDown person will fill you in on that.

Removing rear brake drums:  here is Paul Schuster's photographic "how to", using the puller shown above.  https://www.hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_simgallery&view=album&aid=26&Itemid=656://   When cchancel said "don't hammer on the puller" he meant don't hit the threaded rod!  It's the "dogbones" that you hit with a hammer.  And by all means leave the nut on the threaded rod as he suggests, or you may suddenly have a puller implanted in your stomach.  Also, I would suggest that after you've whaled on the dogbones for awhile, pause, and tap the drum with a hammer all around the perimeter to set up a vibration.  With all the stress of the puller, it may only take a few taps to spring the whole thing loose. 

By the way, please note: the original wheel bearings on Hudsons, are tapered (that's why the rods are so hard to remove) and until recently they listed for over $900 apiece at parts stores.  I believe it was Paul Schuster (again!) who uncovered a treasure trove of original bearings and a lot of us stocked up on them at a very low price!  So, here again, if you are quoted a high price for a Hudson part, do come to the forum and let us know.  We'll tell you if it can be obtained more cheaply.

I'm sorry to hear about the rusted frame but this can be fixed by welding new steel plates over the old.  Fortunately Hudson provided easy access to the area that rusts out.  The photo https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/100574733_3071695609561683_8864080185545195520_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_sid=07e735&_nc_oc=AQlwDVoOGBni7Mn7AblaRfXwNdQqmKXgH9t99XvbRQMYBMRPPe_isGmmyfx1XdYl8-g&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=ab19ac2e34ad8969efd6825c0f8cde0c&oe=5EF58B47  shows the easy access once the rear quarter panel has been unbolted and removed.  With leff and right quarters removed, you have a see-through car.  I believe Ken Cates goes into some discussion on rust-out in his excellent website on StepDowns.  I suggest you bookmark it!  https://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/

You mentioned that you've started your car, which is great to hear.  Have you drained the old oil (and maybe even dropped the pan to clean out the gunk)?  If the engine's been sitting for some years, it might not be a bad idea!

tylerwatts

Cchancel and Jon,

Thanks for all the tips! I'll get my hands on that hub puller soon.

I have indeed been exploring Ken Cates' website and it's proving quite useful. I'm glad to hear the rear fender panels are removable to allow me to cut out the rust and repair those frame rails. 

As for the engine, I will be draining the oil and pulling the pan at some point. The oil in it now is very clean, though, so I figured it would not hurt to do the initial start. She sounded pretty good, and accelerated great, which actually surprised me given that I did absolutely nothing with the carb! Fuel pump works great, too--which I learned because when I first fired her up, it spewed a bunch of nasty, varnishy gas all over the manifolds (note to self: do not assume the gas tank is empty!). I disconnected the fuel line from the inlet side of the pump and allowed the nasty gas to drip/ dry off before firing it up again. Ran her for 10-15 minutes, figured out how to adjust the idle stop, let the spilled gas residue burn off the manifolds. Mechanically, everything is going amazingly smoothly so far! I'll keep checking in here with updates and questions--I absolutely love the friendly help and advice!

superwasp

I thought a previous forum member (Rambos_ride) documented his step down frame repair project in tremendous detail a number of years ago, but I sure can't find the thread. Maybe someone else knows where that went. I'm pretty sure I'm not imagining that.

Uncle Josh

Contact Ken for the tapered axle bearings.  xxxknnu21@yahoo.com  (without the xxx)

50C8DAN

Rambos_ride did indeed show his repair.  Not sure what happened to him?  He was pretty active on here.

superwasp

He popped in to say hi a while back. I think life just happened.

50C8DAN

He did about a year and a half ago.  Sorry that he is no longer here.

50C8DAN

Tyler one comment - if you are going to 12V I would install a new 12V heater motor and not put in a big resistor to cut down the voltage.  It works but I found it gets super hot and also does not have the speed it does it did with 6V.  The motors are easy to find and are easy to install.

40indianssgmailcom

They are also inexpensive, about $28.00

tallentr

You don't need a tie rod end you need the bar ,should be easy to find used . I have some if you can not locate one. As this is your first experience with Hudson a factory manual would probably be helpful . once you find the rear hub puller be aware it is on there tight take the nut loose but leave on end of shaft because the drum is going to pop and want to fly when it comes loose. 

IvarSweden

50C8DAN said:

Tyler one comment - if you are going to 12V I would install a new 12V heater motor and not put in a big resistor to cut down the voltage.  It works but I found it gets super hot and also does not have the speed it does it did with 6V.  The motors are easy to find and are easy to install.

What about the resistor inside the switch? Will the 12V heater motor run at low speed?

50C8DAN

Yes it will be fine.

Uncle Josh

I'm running 5 Hudsons all on 6V.  The only time I use a 12V briefly is to wake them up from a long sleep.  36 Terraplane 6, 40 Coupe 8, 46 Pickup (39)8, 47 Pickup 6, 49 Commadore 6.  Keep them in tune and 6 is fine except if you want air cond.  I just open the air scoop and the windows.  Mid NY state.

charles4d

Hello from Maryland
Glad to have another person in with the Hudson crowd. 
Make sure you emergency brake is not on when pulling the rear hubs off it makes a world of difference  my 2 cents