Frame Rust Repair & Painting Questions

longlivelance

I am getting ready to clean and paint the frame on my 46 pickup and was wondering about one cross-section in particular. The frame is in pretty good shape with only minor surface rust which has been coming off no problem with a wire wheel. The one cross-section in question was the only area with any real signs of major rust as seen from the severe pitting.

My plan is to remove any surface rust, clean it, then use rust stopping chassis paint like the Mastercoat, POR-15 or similar. I've seen heavier paints, like in the master series that is said to fill pitting and prevent further rust which you apply ahead of your topcoat.

My question for you more experienced folks is what would be a good course of action here? I have checked it with a hammer all over and it is solid. 

1. Are these paint systems a viable option for this one cross member or should it be replaced?
2. Does anyone have any opinions on which paint to use? From what I have seen the Master Series gets the strongest results with testing and is cheaper then POR-15 and some others. Would be interested in any experience with these and how they held up, and/or which you would use?

Appreciate any insight!



-Lance

ratlee2

That doesn't look too bad.  I would continue to wire wheel and/or needle scale it.  I have used POR-15 in the past and was less than impressed with it.  It came off it sheets.  I have had good luck with both Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Saver.  In both cases, it was messy and if you got it on your hands it stayed there for about a week.

40indianssgmailcom

I have used a product called corroseal after cleaning the rust and debris from parts.  It is about $28/ quart and acts as a converter and encapsulation.  It is brushed on as a white emulsion that turns black when encountering rust and leaves a hard surface which can be painted .  It is available from rodda paints.  The quart bottle would easily do a frame

Geoff

CRC Rust converter does the same job.

Old Fogey UK

I have used tannic acid based products to neutralise rust, followed by an anti-rust primer and a couple of top coats. That's held up well against the return of rust on the last two restorations I've done.
For the top coats, I used to paint on a British paint called Hammerite that I suspect is very similar to POR15. It also came off in sheets and I'd never use it again.
Nowadays I'd use just an ordinary black enamel paint of the sort found in DIY stores as the top coat - it's far less expensive and just as durable as the so-called specialist stuff.

RichardD

FOR GLOSSY BLACK AEROSOL PAINT ON THE CHEAP GET WALMART'S OWN BRAND. FOR ALL UNDER CAR PAINT IT IS GOOD; I'VE USED FOR YEARS. COSTS 94¢ !!!! SAVE $5.-$9. PER CAN.
BUT FOR THE BEST GLOSS BLACK FOR UNDERHOOD, ETC. GET DUPI-COLOR W/CERAMIC {OR IN ANY COLOR}. AWESOME STUFF. 
https://www.duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic/

EDIT: USE SEMI-GLOSS BLACK UNDER HOOD, NOT GLOSS, UNLESS NEEDED SPECIALLY.

50C8DAN

I have used the Eastwood chassis black which seems to hold up well and looks great.

https://www.eastwood.com/paints/under-car-coatings/chassis-frame-paints.html

longlivelance

Thanks for the input everyone! I just got a hoist so I can take the engine and body off the frame to get this all going. On to the next steps...

40indianssgmailcom

After the corroseal application cures, I then brush on good old inexpensive rustoleum gloss black enamel.  Once it dries it seems to hold up very well.  While you have the cab off the frame look at the bottom of the back panel where it meets the remnants of the floor.  Hudson did a very poor job here, the two pieces are not welded together and the material used to fill the gap is probably long gone.  It takes a little time but I welded the floor and back panel together.  As you will find the floor panel is about 3/4" long and can be folded to close the existing gap and make it watertight when welded.  Just a suggestion didn't mean to hijack. 

Old Fogey UK

40indianssgmailcom said:

After the corroseal application cures, I then brush on good old inexpensive rustoleum gloss black enamel.  Once it dries it seems to hold up very well.  While you have the cab off the frame look at the bottom of the back panel where it meets the remnants of the floor.  Hudson did a very poor job here, the two pieces are not welded together and the material used to fill the gap is probably long gone.  It takes a little time but I welded the floor and back panel together.  As you will find the floor panel is about 3/4" long and can be folded to close the existing gap and make it watertight when welded.  Just a suggestion didn't mean to hijack. 

Yes, brushed-on Rustoleum is good.

longlivelance

Hijack away if you’re offering advice! I’ve never done any of this before. So good advice is very much appreciated and incredibly helpful. Once I get the cab off I’m sure I’ll be posting more questions about that. 

I was going to just get the truck road worthy And fix some cosmetics, but I then realized how close I was to having everything off and decided I’d regret not going all the way. Always wanted to do this and better late then never!

Thanks again!