Advice Needed Pulling Motor/Trans on 1951 Hornet

rumblefish351

I've removed the radiator/fan and most of the upper engine cables, hoses, wires, etc and I'm getting ready to go underneath. I'm hoping it's not that bad under there. Any words of wisdom? Also, do I need to remove the grill?

cheyenne7271

If it’s manual transmission, remove the trans drain plug and leave it out so it will clear the cross member, if it’s a hydramatic you should be ok without removing the cross member, even though it’s removable. Grill should be ok in place. 

rumblefish351

Awesome. Thank you. It's an automatic. I'm planning on pulling engine and transmission together. I'm working on a gravel floor so I'm hoping there's not too much to it underneath. 

cheyenne7271

Not to bad, but both together are very heavy and that will make moving them in gravel with an engine hoist pretty sketchy

54coupe

Remove the transmission cover (floorboard) to have easier access to the top Bell housing bolts. The shift arm and throttle rod on the trans are delicate... keep an eye on them when you pull it out. Total weight here is 900-1000 pounds (engine is 700+ Trans is 225+). Make sure your equipment is up to the task. Be careful, and good luck.

29sptphaeton

I would not recommend using a cheery picker on gravel. The engine and trans. Is heavy enough to make the cherry picker do a wheel stand when you try to move dropping the whole thing on your grill.  Be careful and have help Incase someone has to stand on the back of the picker for ballast.

rumblefish351

Yep, I agree about the cherry picker. Few years back, I found the 'tipping point' with a 351C and FMX in my garage. It was little scary and I'm not gonna risk it with 950 pounds. My shop has overhead trusses that are very stout. I'm laying three 2x10's on their side screwed together up on the trusses with a 4x4 post on each end. The 4x4s are set into pier blocks and support the beam above. I think it will be fine. 

rumblefish351

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49S636T

I pulled the little motor out of my new jet yesterday. I put a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood on the gravel outside the shop door for easier rolling of the hoist.  I had the front rims off already so I lowered the car all the way down in front for a little extra clearance. I pulled the tranny (standard) from inside. The adjustable tilting engine sling is a wonderful thing. It was relatively easy. When I reinstall with an automatic I will probably remove the grille.

52hudsonman

i would be safe and have a wrecker service or if you have salvage yard close bring a wrecker to do the job a lot of heavy iron

rumblefish351

I have some safety concerns for sure. I'm rethinking a few things (especially about crawling underneath the car on jack stands and the weight of the engine/trans). Thanks to all of you for the input. 

rumblefish351

Additional question: When I got this car 3 years ago, I noticed I could not push it around with a few friends. I put car in "N" and took E brake off and it wouldn't budge. I had to use my truck with a tire in between to push car into the shop. The other day, I jacked front end up and could easily spin both front tires, so that tells me the rear wheels aren't wanting to roll. It would be helpful if I could push the car around when I need to move it (esp when pulling the motor/trans). Are the rear brakes rusted or is car not in neutral or ?

Glowplug

The guess is the rear brakes are frozen to the drums possibly with rust.  Have to remove drum to check.  

Kdancy

You will need to heat up the drums with a torch after the puller is installed. Take your time and tap around the drums with a hammer as youheat them. Leave the axle nut on with a few threads in case the drum "pops" off. Don't need an accident!!

,

rumblefish351

You guys are awesome! I love this forum. Thanks.
Also forgot to mention this car sat in storage and didn't move from 1984 thru 2017, so that's more than enough time for some rust to take hold. 

rumblefish351

rumblefish351

Found the master cylinder access cover. Not sure what the yellow cover on other side of transmission hump is. Still looking for transmission access cover. 

54coupe

Take out the carpet. The trans cover goes all the way over to the steering column, and an equal amount on the passenger side. The opening tapers down to about 12 inches wide just in front of the seat. The yellow cover is access to the Transmission dipstick.

rumblefish351

You mean the cover that's secured by about twenty 7/16th bolts and is covered by mass amounts of carpet, insulation, sound deadening material and seam sealer? I think I found it!
TY 54coupe!!

54coupe

That's the one

rumblefish351

So this is first time working on a Hudson and I don't have a manual. I'm planning on pulling engine and trans together. With regards to the transmission, looks like I need to unfasten the U joints/drive line, speedo, the 2 linkages (shifter and kickdown?) on driver side and then the 4 nuts that fasten trans to the mount? Anything else? 

54coupe

It will give you a little more room if you remove the Transmission crossmember too.

railknight

You may already have this, but just in case, someone use to reproduce the Hudson stepdown engine lift bracket a few years ago.  I believe it's a reproduction of the Kent Moore tool (J 2782) and what was also used on the Hudson assembly line to install engines.  It might make the removal and re-installation a bit easier if you can locate one.  

ratlee2

Since it is an automatic, you should remove the kickdown lever from the transmission before you pull the engine and transmission.  It can get caught up on the way out and break the mechanism internally.

onerare39

railknight said:

You may already have this, but just in case, someone use to reproduce the Hudson stepdown engine lift bracket a few years ago.  I believe it's a reproduction of the Kent Moore tool (J 2782) and what was also used on the Hudson assembly line to install engines.  It might make the removal and re-installation a bit easier if you can locate one.

I believe Doug Wildrick had some made a few years ago. 

rumblefish351

Removing the transmission lever. Great idea. Will do. TY
That lift bracket looks awesome. I will find one. TY.
I'm working on the rear wheels trying to get those drums off. They're rusted solid. Bad. I gotta be able to turn rear wheels so I can rotate drive line to remove the U joints and push the car around some. 

rumblefish351

Do they make a special puller for the rear drums?

Kdancy

I had some (motor lift brackets) made 3 years ago. Sold all of them.

ski4life65

rumblefish351 said:

Do they make a special puller for the rear drums?

This is what you need. Find on Ebay cheap

Glowplug

From my website / Brake Section

rumblefish351

I think I got the right one. Looks like the bone comes off. Truepower # 20-2029. $49 free shipping on ebay. I've got a 1/2 drive impact gun with the correct socket that runs off big compressor. Hope it's enough. Thanks.